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-   -   FBH The end of the SAGA ? (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=53896)

COLVERT 11th February 2013 19:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaki (Post 1217564)
Ok, I give up, I surrender :mad:
I removed PCB, I couldn't find anything suspicious there, measured every resistor (I think) and those seemed to be ok.
I studied a bit fuel pump circuit and it seems that pump is driven by one IC with 8 legs and it is soldered also from its body to board. I cheked that +12V circuit is ok to chip and signal from chip to pin 6 in X1 is ok also. I cannot do anything more.
Frenchmike, still repairing these? Aprog delivery time today?

Send FrenchMike a PM. ( Private message. ) You will get a much faster reply if you do. :D:D

Click on his name, up on the left, and then click on 'Send private message'.



Colvert.

jaki 12th February 2013 06:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLVERT (Post 1219286)
Send FrenchMike a PM. ( Private message. ) You will get a much faster reply if you do.

Actually I allready did some time ago. Unfortunately, my model is new to him. But: as soon I get better from my flu, I install my modificated pcb, and test it. If it does not work, I change the chip and if it is still without pump current, I will give it to local expert (they have huge repair queue presently). Our cold days will last about one month still, so I should repair it relatively quick or it does not matter anymore for this winter :}

Edit: I swapped output to an other FET port in that circuit. Didn't help. Cuircuitry worked exatrly in a same way than before (so, I didn't break anything extra ;) )Ok, it was too difficult job to me and my tools anyway (too small connections). So it is possible that my connection was wrong soldered. I ordered new chip and will have it in a couple of days. Local electronic shop can do the swapping without a problem. I will then once again check all the cables & connections, put everything together...and hope the best. If it does not work, I will give it to expert.

Vexatus 13th February 2013 16:34

jaki, if you'll apply a lot of flux or colophony then solder will hold to the copper and "get away" it self from the laminate.

Best regards
Greg

HarryM1BYT 13th February 2013 17:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaki (Post 1211916)
Thank's for fast reply. Ok, the pulse width is so narrow. I still think my high quality multimeter should have indicated this with it's analog bar, but not sure anymore. Unfortunately I don't have scope in my hand, thinking to buy one. I will once more come back to pump itself and test it with "manual" pulsing. If it still clicks, then I remove and look at the pcb. resistors does not sound very easy to replace.
If I don't see anything clear what is burn/broken I will rise my hands up. Fortunately we have here in Finland also a repair shop special for these Webasto pcb's from BMW and others.
I will report when I have studied a bit more.

In the absence of a 'scope, a logic probe with a cmos setting would pick up and show the pulses.

dotsie 13th February 2013 18:40

A big thanks to Frenchmike for fixing 2 pcb's for me.Both FBH's are now running well.The man is a genius :)

jaki 15th February 2013 16:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by dotsie (Post 1221298)
A big thanks to Frenchmike for fixing 2 pcb's for me.Both FBH's are now running well.The man is a genius :)

Good for You, I even swapped (or electronic shop did it) new output stage for fuel pump, but result was same than before. I cheked fuel pump cabeling once again but everything was ok.
I found from motor-talk a couple gus with similar eerror codes. No answer there either :(
I give it up. I will visit an expert when I hve little more time.

jaki 20th February 2013 21:02

Sad story to my Webasto.
I had problem with my battery (original from year 2004), and there was also litlle contact problems with battery cabling.
I managed fire my car with jump start and bought new battery. Everything else is ok, except this FBH. First: I couldn't get contact to it with my DIS. Then I realise that its fuse was blown. I replaced it and the I heard aux water pump running on all the time. Ahd: this is serious: I couln't still get any contact to it :( Even when car totally switched off water pump remains on, meaning I was forced t oremove that fuse.
So my unit seems to be very sick.

David Lawrence 31st March 2013 19:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrenchMike (Post 1129038)
Hi Greg,

I can confirm:
A :ceramic capacitor unknown value.
B:49.9k resistor
C:1 ohm resistor
D:4.7k resistor
E:ceramic capacitor unknown value.

Mike


Hi Mike,

Any idea which component causes the error message "Glowpin flame sense interrupted- Short circuit". I found one 4.7K resistor open circuit, but the error is still there. The glowpin is not short circuit because i tested it in another heater.

FrenchMike 31st March 2013 19:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Lawrence (Post 1265767)
Hi Mike,

Any idea which component causes the error message "Glowpin flame sense interrupted- Short circuit". I found one 4.7K resistor open circuit, but the error is still there. The glowpin is not short circuit because i tested it in another heater.

Hi,

The quickest way is checking all the resistors...

David Lawrence 1st April 2013 13:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrenchMike (Post 1265783)
Hi,

The quickest way is checking all the resistors...



It was a solder joint this time. It seems the chewing gum has attacked the joints on the resistors which was very confusing because when measuring the resistors on the top of their caps they read fine, but when I scraped away the varnish on the pads and measured there, they read open circuit. Ended up replacing 2 x 4.7K resistors and 1 x 10K one.


That chewing gum has a lot to answer for.


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