SD1too

Thanks for going through my post and responding. It all makes sense. Ironically the thing has been so reliable over the years (apart from bits of interior trim falling off) I've not had to go through such a learning curve.

I'll ring round for some quotes on the brakes.

Cheers

If fuel pumps have been ruled out then the obvious is the 15amp under bonnet one, I've seen it fail and still allow toaf to talk to it, but it controls diesel fuel pressure regulator control. Basically if the fuel rail is sub 1800psi she wont start.

Also the 20amp beside it is a good shout. Whip them out and change them both. That's a dam good start for cranking but no fuelling to rule out.

The 1260 one is easy, and learned this one from MarinaBrian, basically when key in ignition and not turned to start for too long (eg on diagnostics) causes the pump to time out and you can get that code.

It could be anything from crank sensor to the dreaded security roll back loosing immobilizer codes. Check those fuses and go from there.

OK will do thanks. Ive got a few days now to look at it, weather permitting!

Hi Mike.
Unplug the Rover Ron box, and put it back to original state and see if it starts, basically remove the ron box from car altogether, IE from the fuel rail, and the MAF so the car is back to factory see what happens.