clutch master cylinder
 

With this being situated above the clutch pedal,how is its level checked,and if necessary topped up? It would be a requirement during a service,

In theory it is a 'sealed for life' system...not least because it is so awkward to get to!

Here's my solution, which I intend marketing on eBay once I find the time to persue such things.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...cs_SMALL-1.jpg

TC

Snap! A couple of months ago I fitted a clear silicone hose that ends by the indicator stalk with a miniature non return valve in the end as a temporary measure to check accurately for fluid loss from the driver's seat.

Makes bleeding a 10 minute job and confirms my suspicions - a couple of ml loss a fortnight. Can't find any leaks but saw a thread where the slave was leaking and the fluid soaking into the crud in the bellhousing.

Will be changing the slave sooner or later. Was waiting for the warmer weather but over Easter it was too hot! Interestingly the leak hasn't got any worse over time.

Mike

Hi,
I fitted a remote resorvior like T Cuts idea about 18 months ago & so far its o.k. Makes checking fluid so easy.

Thanks Mel.

Hi Very interesting and a great idea where would this be situated in the engine bay, would or could it be situated back to back by the brake reservior:shrug: as in photo below, also what sort of materials would need to be sourced to do this mod and where from. Would the flexible hose have to be in an upright position so the hose could not kink in anyway ? please keep us informed thanks Arctic :bowdown:
http://i53.tinypic.com/25qqebs.jpg

Hi Mel do you have any pics of this we can take a look at please. Arctic

:wantpics:

QUOTE=HOMER;718327]:wantpics:[/QUOTE]


Hi,

Do you want one ?

Here it is (left side drive)

Attachment 8580[
Mike

Hi What size reservior would be needed would one from a motor bike do etc :shrug:

Hi,
Sorry i have no photos of this as my know how on posting photos is zero.Anyway this is how i done it,I used a m/cyl cap from a gunson bleed kit removing the m/cyl diaphragm & putting the pipe through the hole with the grommet in that you can see in Artics photo,i then made a backet to hold the resorvior that i fitted to the spare stud on the rear of servo housing making sure to keep it as high as possible so the fluid can run down it o.k (as in Artics photo) I used a m/cyl resorvior that i found in scrap yard from a old 5 series BMW but i think a m/cycle one will do,When i came to fit pipe onto BMW resorvior i found i had a problem with it being a different size so i used a larger size piece of tube that fitted over gunson original & used a piece of copper pipe inside so that i could use a jubilee to clamp it.

Cheers Mel.

Hi would one of these do below do you think for the clutch mod .
http://tinyurl.com/3p99qlt

http://tinyurl.com/3uvl92q

I think anything like those tanks will do. The mounting place can be anywhere accessible under the bonnet. The connecting pipe needs to be resistant to brake fluid, but most plastics are I think. Conventional plastic hose suitable for petrol/oil will do or maybe silicone if you fancy that. It doesn't have to take any pressure so needn't be braided or toughened. Simple push fit ends will do. All it's doing is supplying brake fluid down to the master cylinder tank, it's very simple.

TC

HI so would pipe like this do the job or wpould it need to be more rigid how would this be fixed into the sealed clutch reservior already situated on top of the clutch so it would not leek :shrug:
http://i55.tinypic.com/2mc9edk.jpg

Hi,
That type of pipe will do but you must seal it on clutch m/cyl otherwise it may leak & the more flexible the better.

Cheers Mel.

HI Mel m/cyl :shrug: in real words :o was thinking of drilling original reservior cap and inserting a copper joint through it. to fit pipe to this could then be stuck with liquid metal :shrug:

Drilling and fitting a metal pipe connector through a screw-on cap is difficult IMO and hardly worth the work involved. You also destroy your only clutch cap if things don't work out. The best solution is a replacement plastic cap with a moulded-on pipe nozzle. As noted, you get these in various sizes with the cheap one-man brake bleeding kits. That soft plastic pipe that comes with the bleed kit would be ideal for connecting up. You need a vent in the upper reservoir like the brakes master, but the lower cylinder one should be unvented. You don't really have to remove all the air from the lower reservoir either, much of it will bubble upwards anyway. Its simply to enable fluid replacement to the old reservoir.

TC