The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - changing rover 75 (2002) brake pads

If you have done brake pads on another vehicle then you will know how to do it. The brakes are conventional single cylinder sliding calipers acting on discs, as used on most cars nowadays. The surface of the discs will have to be checked and they will also require replacement if undersize or in a bad state.

Very briefly. Jack the car and place on stands. Remove the road wheel. You remove the anti rattle spring then the two socket cap slider screws (7mm Allen hexagon type) on the inner side of the caliper (under rubber caps) and this allows removal of the caliper with the inner pad still attached. The sliders will require replacement or scraping clean, and a light greasing on replacement.

Hang it off the spring using a wire coat hanger or something similar to avoid stressing the flexible pipe. Clean as much dust and road debris off the caliper and the area round the hub, and particularly where the pads slide.

The carrier for the caliper is secured with two hex head bolts (15mm heads from memory). This on removal will need wire brushing to remove all the crud, then refit with Loctite on the bolt threads.

Push the cylinder back into the caliper (watch the level of fluid in the reservoir in case it overflows). Fit the new pads with a tiny amount of copper grease on the sliding surfaces (not anywhere near the disc or pad surface), slide the caliper back on, replace the socket head screws and spring, replace wheel and let it off the stands/ jack.

On the OSF and OSR hubs are the brake pad wear sensors, that clip into the pads. These will more than likely fall apart when you remove them, but if you are careful you may be able to reuse. New ones are around a tenner (or probably less on the Bay of E). While the wheels are off, check the security of the ABS sensor wire. I have lost a couple of sensors where the wire has come adrift of its clips, and flapped around and the tyre has worn through the wire, putting the ABS light on.

Drink a cup of tea, then do the other side. Check the fluid level when complete (replace the fluid if it is due - 2 yearly from memory). Job done.

Even taking it easy, you shouldn't need any more than a couple of hours, depending on your tools and facilities. I do them on my drive way, and end up walking to and from the garage to get this or that which takes time. In a professional garage with lifts and air tools and eveything to hand, they will of course be quicker.

Full details in the Haynes as mentioned.