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-   -   Adhesive to Repair Scuttle Panel (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=255514)

Greeners 26th October 2016 08:37

Adhesive to Repair Scuttle Panel
 
The plastic on the scuttle panel is marked as "PP MF 40"

Any recommendations on a suitable adhesive is suitable to bond it back together

Heddy 26th October 2016 09:33

Can't help with a glue recommendation but one from a scrappy may be a more permanent fix :shrug:

Greeners 26th October 2016 09:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Heddy (Post 2386627)
Can't help with a glue recommendation but one from a scrappy may be a more permanent fix :shrug:

Probably would, but the one I've got has a minor crack which I'd like to try and repair

Parker 26th October 2016 09:58

I used some of that Gorilla glue for some plastic at home the other week, it's a good bond but a little messy to use.

Failing that my top favourite for most tasks is superglue gel. Doesn't run all over your fingers and bonds very quickly

drjonts 26th October 2016 10:16

David,

If PP means polypropylene then it is a NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- to stick. Araldite-type epoxies are normally first attempt. Never used Gorilla glue but it does stick most stuff.

There are some specialist glues that prime the surface to aid adhesion (surface energy increase apparently). Never used it but maybe stuff like this...

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_...ing-System.htm

Plastic welding (with a soldering iron / pyrography burner) should always work...but not very pretty!!!

Jonty

HarryM1BYT 26th October 2016 11:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by drjonts (Post 2386640)
David,

If PP means polypropylene then it is a NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- to stick. Araldite-type epoxies are normally first attempt. Never used Gorilla glue but it does stick most stuff.

There are some specialist glues that prime the surface to aid adhesion (surface energy increase apparently). Never used it but maybe stuff like this...

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_...ing-System.htm

Plastic welding (with a soldering iron / pyrography burner) should always work...but not very pretty!!!

Jonty

If it is just a partial crack, then I have used the above method, but with paper staples, open, pushed through with a hot iron. Once through, fold the staple ends over then run the iron over the top to seal them in place. Another way is to lay the staples over the underside, then just heat them to push them into the plastic - that can be an almost invisible repair from the good side. As said above - not pretty, but it works.

roverbarmy 26th October 2016 14:05

As above, araldite usually works for me and you can always add some extra plastic on the underside of the repair for belt and braces. Cleanliness and a good key is essential. I usually clean( with cellulose thinners) add deep scratches for a key and use the soldering iron method prior;) on the underside of the crack to bond it.

Frogmella 26th October 2016 15:15

I saw an advert for some stuff from JML called "Lazerbond: UV activated liquid plastic adhesive and filler". I have no idea whether it is any good but if it does what they say in the ads it might be what you need.

T-Cut 26th October 2016 15:21

According to this particular survey, it seems like an epoxy is the best: http://info.craftechind.com/blog/bid...ue-for-Plastic

I always plump for a cyanoacrylte (super glue) type as a starter, but depends on whether you can afford several shots at it. Cyanoacrylate will discolour some plastics without any adhesion, but others it will stick like fury. If you can't afford mistakes, my advice is to always Google for the best info before experimenting. The best adhesives for all the different plastics are well established.

TC

Davy 26th October 2016 18:35

as mentioned above http://www.jmldirect.com/at-home/hom...ve-and-filler/ never used it but mat be worth a try.

Davy.


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