Another master clutch cylinder topic
 

Hi guys,

I know there are several topics regarding the master clutch cylinder, however there might be new information available that might be an answer to one of my questions.

1 - There are mixed opinions about this, but what is the best performing/ longest lasting MCC replacement?

2 - Is it easy to determine if your MCC needs to replaced, or if there is something else happening? (symptoms described below) Are there tests methods? (maybe its my clutch itself?)

3 - I couldn't find a how-to with pictures, only with just text. Could there be a how-to on another forum that also has pictures?

My current symptoms: lately, it feels like it is getting a bit harder to put the gear in 1st and in reverse. Sometimes I also feel it is getting a bit harder at 3th and 4th gear. I checked the level, and it looked perfectly fine.

My car is a Rover 75 from 2000 with about 50.000 miles on it. It has a 1.8 NA K-series engine. It is mostly driven on highways, and I drive like a granny ( lol ). However, I brake with the clutch as well :getmecoat:.

Have you tried bleeding the clutch. There was serious black gunge in the fluid in mine (55K miles, 10 years old at the time) and after a fluid change, has been much better. The fluid and seals deteriorate over time and the residue has nowhere to go in a sealed system.;)
Mike

That sounds like a plausible idea. Just leaves with learning how to bleed the system.... never done that ....

Also, shouldn't I replace the seals if they are deteriorated?

I've never bought a new master cylinder - had a couple of second hand ones and mixed and matched the seals.

As mentioned, stripping them down, cleaning out, and refilling with fresh fluid is the first thing to do if you get a problem.

Thanks Mike. Sounds like I know where to start. Just gonna look for a how to, a place to get the parts and some time to do the job :)

Just finished :).

I didn't had the tools, wisdom and time to take the master cylinder completely out. But I used a syringe to suck out a bit of the fluid inside the container..... it was almost black :(

I tried to suck out as much fluid as possible, and then put plenty of clean fluid back in. Since my container is black, it was a nightmare to see how much was really in there, so I tried to fill it till a little bit under the top. No clue if it is to much or to little...

I drove the car around the block, but I didn't feel any difference. You can feel when you put the car in 1st or 2nd gear. But when I first got the car a few years ago, it would just slide into 1st or 2nd like butter.
Changing the fluid, and topping it op didn't change anything.

I'm starting to think that my only options are: total rebuild of the master cylinder and bleeding the clutch after re-installing.

The easiest way to flush it out is to use something like a gunsons easibleed. It is very hard to access the cap of the reservoir so something like that allows you to get in there the once and then refill fluid in the easibleed bottle a bit easier. Then you just open the bleed nipple and let it flow till it is clean coming out. I think some of the gunge will likely be inside the slave as well, so may want to press the pedal a few times between bleeds to help get it out. When i did mine i got a slight improvement for a while, but soon after that the pedal started sticking down about one cm from its full return position, then another few months before the leak in the slave started, then another month before i needed a new clutch and slave, so replaced everything at the same time.

If possible, you want to avoid contaminating the slave with the debris from the master cylinder if you do decide to bleed the entire system through with an Eezibleed or similar. Disconnect the quick fit union and then bleed through the master cylinder end by pressing in the membrane at the end of the joint, or by making up a bleed nipple/female quick fit connector device from an old slave cylinder, which you connect to the 'male' end of the quick fit connector at the MC end. This may seem a bit of extra hassle, but reduces the chances of the slave failing due to debris from the MC damaging the slave cylinder seals.

Pete

Or reverse bleed from the slave cylinder end back into the master. Use a large syringe and tube onto the open bleed nipple. Make sure to put a large bowl or container under the master cylinder to catch the excess. Make sure that there are no bubbles in the end of the syringe tube before opening the bleed nipple. No pedal pumping required.;)

Hi Pete,i hope your cluch is still going strong :}
i don't agree , most of the débris come from the slave seal, remember ...

Mike