I dont suppose any of you guys have a full aircon setup for a t series laying about?
my engine is non aircon and found out the alternator has seized in the back off the shed so is a good reason to fully change to the aircon setup so i can keep that working on the car

I have one such example here - w reg 420' went as far as fitting a 45 front end on it, had plans to turbo it. Wife vetod it, and i didnt need a second car. I had fitted a big disc conversion, zt front shocks and springs, reverse top radius links. And she preffered an astra!
Sorry, the aircon is not for sale.
Not done much on the tzt this weekend, too busy doing other stuff.

Zt t series on hold for now, need to transplant a new engine into a zr 160. First I had to get to it, by moving the zt out of the way. This hasn't moved for over a year, the last time I tried starting it the alternator belt snapped. A recharged battery, a squirt of easystart, and away it went. The only problem was I had not only robbed the clutch master cylinder, but also one of the clutch pedal nylon bushes to replace one of my 190's that had fallen behind the heater matrix. So i had to make a new bush, fish the master cylinder out of the bin, and refit the whole lot just to move it.
Anyway, made some room, just need a day or two off work to get at the zr now.

Way to many projects. I just have the the zt (car project) the yamaha to eventually get back on the road. And the largest project my children. So the bike is last on the list then the zt. May start rebuilding all the electrics and battery trays next until I find the aircon setup.

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If I recal the aircon setup on the t is a bit of a pain. The aircon pump at the bottom, then the water pump and ps pump, then the alternator, all on top of each other. I wonder in a zt if it might be better to put something behind the engine?

The t engine seems to have a much shallower sump as the rear support needs to be lower than the sump to stay in line. I am not overly worried about the room so long as the small turbo's downpipe can run forward enough to clear the radiator. The external wastegate sits very far forward on the manifold and clears ok so should be OK for the diwnpipe.

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Yes I have the alloy sump much better cooling. I also have a thermostatic oil cooler for extra cooling due to the 2 turbo's and hauling the estate

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The alloy sump is the same on the 420 na's mine is a na sump with the return pipe drilled into it the marks are there for it just not drilled

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Broken ring lands can be from detonation, or mabe because theyve softened due to overheating (usually everything is white). So, too much boost, with too much ignition advance, not enough fuel etc.
The t and m heads really are crying out to be uncorked, but it takes hours, and ideally need bigger valves to make the best of them.

Seen a few guys on standard management run over 300bhp comfortable. One guy was running 370 but started get weak mixtures at that so capped it there. All had non standard pistons and rods.

I think to get better power from mine it would be head and cams.

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