The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - Clutch problem on a Diesel MGZT

Quote:

Originally Posted by <James|Rover> (Post 684824)

Help please (on behalf of my local garage!)
I took the car in because the clutch started slipping and it became difficult to get in to gear. They stated a new clutch was required. Then I got a call stating that it needed a new master cylinder.
So I got the car back. However after 5 minutes driving the initial clutch problem was worse than ever. So I took it back. They worked on it (bleeding etc apparently) and again they gave it back to me only for me to very quickly run into the same problem and have to return it to them again 10 minutes later. This to-ing and fro-ing has happened about 4 times now. The last time the chap said the instructions on the cylinder stated not to bleed it, but he has had to several times now apparently. Also he said that its difficult to get access to it - he says he is having to use a syringe and tubing. Having just been given it again and just tried it again now the clutch is virtually non existant and its impossible to get into gear and wont "go out" or disengage the drive properly hence it stalls (does this make sense?!). He is at a total loss... not sure where this leaves me either as so far we have a new clutch and master cylinder installed and paid for.

Does this sound a familiar problem/issue at all?

Any ideas would be hugely appreciated.
Cheers, James

Hi James the hydraulics on are clutch systems is one of the worst faults are cars have, as you will know, its expensive to replace the clutch system, the following are the recommendations, followed by things to check.

1 Replace the whole clutch system, but to save a little, have the DMF (flywheel) checked, if its within tolerance and the face is ok, no need to replace.

2 Always when replacing either the master/slave cylinders, replace both, as history as proved that replacing either with new the other will soon fail and it as happened by replacing the salve cylinder and not the master, the slave cylinder as failed within a few months.

3 Always use genuine parts not after market, you can save money on using parts for the Freelander TD4.

1 Checking the hydraulics, first the master cylinder, if the clutch pedal becomes harder to push is the first sign of the cylinder starting to fail, also check the push rod and the back of the pedal for signs of fluid leaks, the fluid tens to run down the back of the carpet.

2 Checking the slave cylinder, with the slave being inside the gearbox, the only way to check for signs of it failing is to look under the gearbox bell housing there are two holes at the bottom of the bell housing and this is where you will see fluid leaking from the slave cylinder.

3 Bleeding the clutch system, the following is the best way i find to do it but i must say this is only a temporary fix.

Gunson Eezibleed from Halfords £20.00

1 Bleeding kit (above is best)
2 1 long (10 to 12 in) flat ended screwdriver
3 1 empty plastic bottle
4 1 12mm spanner
5 1 8mm spanner
6 1 good light or torch
7 1 little mirror
8 1 foot pump or compressor (this is for the kit as it works from your spare tyre)
9 1 syringe
10 some old rags/towels and a roll a of kitchen paper

How to, first remove engine top cover, you will see the slave cylinder bleed nipple on the end of a black pipe just above the gearbox, first put the 8mm ring spanner onto nipple then put one of the plastic tubes (out of the kit) on to the bleed nipple and the other end into the plastic bottle, to collect old fluid.

Now inside the car, first thing is to remove the trim, unscrew the two screws just at each side of the diagnostics port, then the two big plastic screws one at the back of the accelerator pedal and the other between the brake and clutch pedal.

Now remove the under trim, you will see that the trim just under the steering column is loose give this a pull and it will come away (held on with 3 clips) now with your torch and on your back look up above the clutch pedal you will see the master cylinder with a little reservoir on top with a white cap, at this time place the old rags/towels around the bottom of the clutch pedal area.

Take the long screwdriver and pushing the side of the cap unscrewing it, remove cap, now theres a little rubber condom inside the reservoir remove this (do-not cut this as some will say to do, theres no need) now follow the instructions with the kit (easy).

When bleeding the system put a full bottle of fluid through, this will replace all of the old fluid and any contaminants in the system.

When replacing the rubber condom now put loads of kitchen paper around the clutch pedal and under the master cylinder, using your torch and little mirror if you use the syringe with a plastic tube on the end and empty the reservoir a little, about 10 to 20cc.

Replace the rubber condom and cap using long screwdriver to tighten (do-not over tighten) you can mop up any fluid spills, refit trim/engine cover, job done good luck, Steve.