Hi Richard.
I will be removing one tomorrow and as such I will be using the same method I have used in the past, engine hot/warm remove the engine cover, air intake, manifold with EGR connected this allows proper access to the injector and the fuel rail.
Remove manifold
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I use a flat bar to lay on the rocker cover as it is plastic and can easily be pieced using it to pry out the injector off it, the bar stops this.
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Remove the injector wiring
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You now need to remove the leak back hoses, remove the spring that hold the T joints in place be careful as yours will be plastic I changed mine for brass
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Once the spring clips are removed you can pull out the T connectors
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You can now loosen the 8mm nut that hold the injector clamp on it's posts, no need to remove completely just yet.
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once the clamp nuts are loose you can undo the fuel rail injector unions with a17mm open ended spanner, there will be four.
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You can get away with undoing two but you need to split the rail from the rubber holders
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put the rail safe on a clean rag.
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The injector is now ready to pry up and out but once again take care use steady pressure only, there could be lots of muck round the injector you do not want that falling into the injector port, so maybe use a small paint brush to brush round the injector before removing, and use an hoover to suck the muck up.
note I have cover the fuel rail outlets
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using a small pry bar lift the injector slowly
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Once it starts to lift remove the 8mm nuts, and prise the injector out fully
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note the muck around the injector port, now you know how I know
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You can now replace the old injector with your new one, always use a new copper seal, note when you take the injector out which way the clamp fits.
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Refit the injector, then replace all that was removed
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Hopefully you will get a decent reading from the replaced injectors
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Hope the above helps sorry it turned into almost a complete how to. Arctic