[scaevola]

Kaiser's metal thermostat housing can be fitted by a simple, albeit non-standard method.
I fitted Kaiser's metal thermostat housing and 2 pipes this way around 6 months ago.
These components have performed perfectly, and I am totally happy with the upgrade.
My 2004 KV6 2.5 has not lost a drop of coolant in 6 months.
The confidence regained in my vehicle was worth every penny, as here in Australia one is often far from help.

I suggest that Kaiser's parts are the only sensible replacement option for KV6 owners.
To use the OEM part is to ask for the same problem in a few years, as it is poorly designed.
Kaiser's cast metal unit is clearly superior to the high frequency welded plastic OEM part.
Mr Kaiser has created the part that should have been fitted originally.

The strength of Kaiser's part allows fitment by a quick non-standard method.
The job can be done in 2 hrs and requires no removal of manifolds.
Not disturbing the complex induction system reduces the cost considerably.
It also removes the possibilty of incorrect re-assembly, and damaging components during removal.

Remove battery and air cleaner as per Haynes method.
Remove breather and fuel pipes as per Haynes. Make a diagram to aid refittiing!
Remove lifting hook - 1 x 14mm and 1 x10mm bolt.
Remove throttle body complete - 4 x Torx 25.
Remove throttle cable from quadrant by obvious method if needed.
Carefully raise throttle body, prise off cruise control white ball and socket connector, if fitted.
Tie back throttle body.
Remove 12 mm bolt using extended socket mentioned below.
Remove thermostat housing and bent pipe by levering out with a cut length of broomstick.
Remove annular debris left in holes, as the old parts will probably break during removal.

Pre-assemble long straight pipe into thermostat housing to its correct depth.
Tighten RHS travel limiting jubilee clip to prevent further ingress into the housing.
Fit LHS jubilee clip, leaving it just nipped, as this clip needs to slide.
I used Permatex Aviation jointing compound on 'O' rings - recommended, as it aids insertion.
I used wet and dry paper tacked to a length of dowelling to clean mating surfaces.

Manually manoevre assembled housing and long pipe into position.It is easier than it sounds.
Cut lengths of broomstick and a 20 inch screwdriver helps.
Do not foul the 2 leads from the knock sensors.

Offer up LHS (far) end of long pipe to its hole.
Light horizontal tapping with rubber mallet and wooden drift helps it home.
Viewing from RHS, ascertain that the thermostat housing is directly above its hole.
It is easy to twist and wriggle the housing to get this alignment.
Using cut length of broomstick and mallet, tap thermostat down home, working from above.
It was safer to use the required (moderate) force on a metal, rather than a plastic component.
Housing went in first time for me, as did the bent pipe later.
Lubrication provided by the jointing compound - may be important in aiding insertion.

Use a strongly magnetised metal screwdriver to offer the 12mm fixing bolt to its hole.
Torque it down gently to force thermostat housing home. Remove 12 mm bolt again.
It is now possible to manoevre bent pipe into place and tap it down using cut broomstick lengths, long screwdriver and rubber hammer.
I had no real problem getting the bent pipe into position, using cut lengths of broomstick and long screwdrivers as drifts.

Re-offer 12mm bolt, rotating bent pipe slightly until its hole and the housing hole align, and the bolt drops down under its own weight.
Torque down moderately - a stripped thread would be a disaster!
The seal is provided by 'O'-rings, not the torque on the fixing bolt.

I used a 1/4" socket set, with 2 x 200mm extensions, terminating in a universal joint and normal socket.
This allowed torquing the bolt from above, working through the cast manifold.
Pack the joints in socket extensions with cloth to prevent seperation in use.

Tighten LHS jubilee clip previously left nipped. Allow 2 mm clearance between clip and block.
Refit throttle body. It is essential to fit lower LHS Torx first.
Refit lifting hook, 2 bolts, easily accessed.
Connect coolant hoses, refit other removed parts, add coolant and check for leaks.

Once done, my reaction was: "Surely it couldn't have been so easy!"
You just need to have the confidence to ignore the workshop manual.
And use Kaiser's well-made metal components.

Final step:
Open another Coopers Sparkling Ale.... Adelaide's gift to the World.