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14th May 2014, 12:11 | #1 |
I really should get out more.......
Rover 75 1.8 Club Join Date: Dec 2013
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Is a B&D Simple Start safe to use?
I've got a Black and Decker Simple Start batterypack, and I was thinking about putting it in my 'emergency kit' for the car.
The way it works is that it contains a big battery (that should be charged). When you battery fails and you run out of electricity, you connect the battery-pack via the aux-socket. Because the current in the batterypack is bigger than that of the car battery, it will slowly charge it, giving you (after a few minutes) the possibility of starting your car again. This way you don't have to get out of the car in a battery-related emergency. But it says very clearly in the manual that you should check with your manufacturer if the simple is compatible with this. Does anybody know anything about this?? I would hate to blow my ECU because I'm trying to charge my battery after I left my lights on....
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14th May 2014, 12:41 | #2 | |
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If it's something you do or worry about doing, you could swap your tail lights & side lights for LED alternatives, as they'll still be on in the morning
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14th May 2014, 13:21 | #3 |
I really should get out more.......
Rover 75 1.8 Club Join Date: Dec 2013
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Well, my car is a bit of an exception... My lights will just stay on for hours and hours (until the battery is empty). Not sure why.
But that will be changed soon when I change my BCU for a MK2 one. I'm asking this because you never know when something like this happens. Perhaps my battery is on it's last legs without me knowing it. I might not be able to start it all of a sudden. And that's why this batterypack can be a great help/ I just don't wanna destroy my electronics. Already swapped most of my lights for LED lights, so that should be fine :P.
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14th May 2014, 13:39 | #4 | |
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14th May 2014, 13:44 | #5 |
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75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
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The whole concept is flawed. You simply cannot charge a 12v battery from a 12v battery. To get current and charge to transfer you would need at least 13.8v from the charging battery and at best it will manage around 12.7v if you are lucky.
You will find out it doesn't work, the first time you actually need it. There are lots of reviews on the internet, on this and others similar.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
14th May 2014, 14:32 | #6 |
I really should get out more.......
Rover 75 1.8 Club Join Date: Dec 2013
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Actually had to use it in my previous car (older car with very simple electronics) and if you leave it connected for about 10 - 15 minutes, it works fine.
Don't expect to fully charge the battery, but it will give just enough power to start the engine a few times. As soon as it's running, you can disconnect it. It's not strange either, when a battery is flat it's not just the voltage that goes down (obviously) but also the ampere. When I connect my charged batterypack, it will have 12v (at least) which is more then the battery in the car. It will also have more ampere at that moment than the car battery. So it's not strange that the electricity will 'flow' into the car battery. It's no miracle cure, and one of those powerpacks (with jumper leads) is much better, but it does work. Most people in reviews expect it to work within seconds and to give a full boost. It doesn't. It just gives the battery a little boost, just enough to start your car again. But the manual very clearly states that some of the newer cars have sophisticated electrical systems that can be 'damaged' if this system is used. And I really don't wanna damage my electrical system....
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14th May 2014, 14:53 | #7 |
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I'd much prefer the 'basic' version, a small lead acid battery in a similar housing with a set of crocodile clips.
Opening the bonnet and connecting one of those is hardly more effort, and you can start straight away. Plus you don't risk frying anything!
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14th May 2014, 17:17 | #8 | |
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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14th May 2014, 17:49 | #9 | |
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However you can leave the battery connected via the cigar socket, and the car will charge this and the car's own battery fine. It will in essence work as if you had two batteries installed in your car, which is indeed the case i some cars. |
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14th May 2014, 18:13 | #10 | |
This is my second home
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
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Batteries are not buckets. They fill up very quickly with volts, then the current and charging stops. The difference between a flat battery unable to crank and engine and a fully charged one, can be as little as one volt. Two batteries in parallel will quickly equalise their voltages, with little actual current charge being transferred. The 12.7v of the small battery, will at most put maybe 2 to 3% back into the car battery; 13.8v will charge a battery to 90%; 14.5v will put a full charge in. So very different from two buckets. If you read the reviews for these gadgets, most say they don't work. Those few who have had success, have had success because the main battery has almost enough power in them to start the engine and just need a fraction more. If your car battery is just lacking that 2 to 3%, then you are in luck. If you need to insure yourself against a flat battery, then the only way is to carry a decent sized, fully charged spare battery and some jump leads with a good amount of copper in them. The 'good amount of copper' means that the starter motor can draw current from the charged battery, rather than the flat one. Instead, I carry a pair of home made jump leads which have a reasonable amount of copper in them, but nowhere near being able to crank the car over. I would hope to be able to use them to be able to jump start mine, from a car with its engine running. Idea is that the other car would be putting both volts and current into my battery, to enable it to start. In 30 years, I have never needed them.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. Last edited by HarryM1BYT; 14th May 2014 at 18:25.. |
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