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21st May 2012, 12:42 | #1 |
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rover 75 diesel tourer Join Date: Feb 2011
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how to change brake pads front and rear
hi
has anyone any advice on how to change the brake pads front and rear or a link to a general how to....... I've searched thehow to forum but have had no luck thanks for any help |
21st May 2012, 13:32 | #2 |
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Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Sep 2011
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It's pretty self explanatory when you get the wheels off, all I will say is people say that the rear pads can be replaced without removing the calipers or carrier, when I did it there was no way they'd fit (maybe the Mintex pads I used were thicker than standard) and I needed to remove the carrier to fit them in.
Front pads replacement How-to Rear pads replacement How-to
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21st May 2012, 14:25 | #3 |
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Buy a Haynes manual, for a DIYer it's an essential.
Possibly the hardest part is the torque screw, at least it was on my Picasso, I had to buy an impact wrench to free the ******s. I plan to do all four discs and pads (part's already bought), I also bought a manual, although there is loads of info on this site covering most items it is good to have some piccies to look at (even poor quality Haynes ones). |
21st May 2012, 15:40 | #4 |
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I did my first disk / pad change ever on my ZT earlier - have to say it was very very easy, and while I'm not a retard I'm no mechanic...
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21st May 2012, 16:13 | #5 |
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A caliper windback tool makes the job easier. If you want a caliper removal key (basically an Allan Key with a big handle), you need a 7mm.
Also make sure your anti rattle springs are in place as if you lose one it WILL cause uneven pad wear and excessive brake pedal travel. If they're missing, replace them when you fit the new pads or you will soon ruin the pads. Rik.
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21st May 2012, 16:30 | #6 |
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No need for the rewinding tool.
A g clamp and a syringe will do, as is usual for front brakes. Our cars have German brakes, rated for high speeds so rear brakes are highly specced. Oh and the BMW 7 mm hex , halfords sells a laser set for a tenner or so. This is very handy to have, if you will keep the car you will be taking the carrier off lots Last edited by Dashiel; 21st May 2012 at 16:34.. |
21st May 2012, 20:01 | #7 | |
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Quote:
thanks everyone |
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21st May 2012, 20:05 | #8 |
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Maybe I was lucky, but I didn't need a windback tool or clamp etc. I just used a screwdriver between the pads and levered it open, didn't require much force (although obviously keep an eye on the fluid level!)
Any excuse to post a video - http://youtu.be/rwu4EHVnymI |
21st May 2012, 20:21 | #9 |
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no need for a special tool to get the piston back ,i always lever it back as jakg did then i use big grips to fully press the piston back .just make sure you do one side at a time ,so less change of getting air in the system ,plus if you run in to trouble you will have something to look at to see how it should look .be carful not to damage the piston rubber or you will have a leak.as already said once the wheel is off you will see what you need to do .if its your first time look on utube at the pad replacement videos it will help you no end by seeing how it is done .
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21st May 2012, 20:37 | #10 |
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To replace the rear discs, i only undid the caliper torque screws (sliding bolts), slackened the handbrake cable 'fully' off, the disc can be 'waggled out'. The handbrake adjuster wheel needs to be wound down to near fully closed to 'waggle' the new disc on.
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