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23rd March 2017, 13:38 | #11 |
I really should get out more.......
Rover 75 Tourer & 75 Saloons Join Date: Apr 2012
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cool.. well you defo cant move it..
yeh - go with that.. I have my fingers crossed for you.. I have been there with this one so I know what you are going through.. good luck |
24th March 2017, 14:39 | #12 |
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75 connie tourer, MGZT-T Join Date: Mar 2009
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I painted the whole metal part of the wheel arch. The upper arm and trailing arm.
Then the compressors arrived, they were quite long so I cut the screws down by half. Compressed the spring and it just popped in. It was so easy by comparison. I'll pop some photos here shortly. |
24th March 2017, 14:40 | #13 |
I really should get out more.......
Rover 75 Tourer & 75 Saloons Join Date: Apr 2012
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Brilliant... well done - and such a relief I bet....
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24th March 2017, 20:56 | #14 |
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75 connie tourer, MGZT-T Join Date: Mar 2009
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First image showing the rear wheel arch, fresh hammerite applied liberally after rust treatment wherever a bubble of rust had been raised. Three coats dried quickly using a space heater. More hammerite after the image was taken.
The spring is in place and the compressor is about to be undone. Breaker bar used to lower the upper arm an inch or two and only the anti-roll bar top bolt disconnected. How relieved was I to get the spring in place? Very! Second image is the spring compressor, the screw shaft having been cut-down by 50% so it would fit the 75's spring without fouling the body. Purchased from ebay for £11, arrived the day after purchasing. Very good quality. Last edited by beededea; 24th March 2017 at 21:05.. |
24th March 2017, 21:00 | #15 |
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2.0 V6 Connoisseur Auto Join Date: Aug 2016
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I had a similar problem when fitting the rear springs to my car.
The method I used (which isn't really recommended but it works) was to push a small trolley jack in and then use it to slowly push the lower arm down. No need to use a long breaker bar and try to open the gap just let the jack do the work and then pop the springs in, rotate them 90 degrees and then slowly release the jack. It worked a treat and only took a few minutes to do but please if you're going to use this method do remember to release the dampner and the anti-roll bar droplinks and keep an eye on your brake hose.
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"Seek to do unselfish things ..." Neill (1962 - I'm still hanging on in there) 2.0 Petrol V6 75 Connoisseur Auto "Ginnie" ...finally stopped that darn thermostat from leaking !! |
24th March 2017, 21:07 | #16 |
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Black Hamerite looks great. I like to use it on things like the suspension arms, anti-roll bar, Petrol Tank Straps etc and on the bodywork of the car I find Black Bitumen Paint is excellent. It's cheap, easy to apply and it never fully dries so it's flexible but dry to the touch. I buy those cheapy course paint brushes from the £1 shop (6 in a pack) and just paint away when I'm crawling around under the car then throw the brush away. Make sure to wear gloves though as it's a B to get it off your hands afterwards unless you like Acetone!
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"Seek to do unselfish things ..." Neill (1962 - I'm still hanging on in there) 2.0 Petrol V6 75 Connoisseur Auto "Ginnie" ...finally stopped that darn thermostat from leaking !! |
25th March 2017, 01:14 | #17 |
I really should get out more.......
ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011
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Should be no need for this at all.
With the roll bar swivelled out of the way, and the appropriate upper arm bolt REMOVED, the whole lot can be pushed down with mild pressure to allow the spring just to pop in. |
25th March 2017, 14:25 | #18 |
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75 connie tourer, MGZT-T Join Date: Mar 2009
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Unfortunately, you have to read the whole post to see why I have only one side jacked up and the anti-roll bar not completely undone. Anyway, it was done within an hour of receiving and using the compressors.
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25th March 2017, 21:02 | #19 |
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mg zt cdti + 75 connie cdti Join Date: Apr 2012
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Dont like using widow maker spring clamps ,use allegro brians method. Drop subframe bolts
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26th March 2017, 20:11 | #20 |
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75 connie tourer, MGZT-T Join Date: Mar 2009
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