Cause(s) of 75 CDTi auto saloon harsh ride? - Page 6

NigelOBB · 27th April 2014, 20:51

http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/suspension-bushes

Here's a link

wuzerk · 28th April 2014, 09:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim lee

On the diesels the Hydramount is at the driver's side of the engine at the top. It is a circular black rubber piece with its axis vertical. It sits below another round rubber bush type part that assists with fore and aft location of the engine. Apparently the Hydramount is filled with a small quantity of glycerine that serves a similar role to the oil in the suspension dampers. If this fluid is lost, then incorrect operation results. As I mentioned, my old Hydramount showed no signs of leakage or damage, but leakage might have happened before I bought the car as the vibration/fidgity ride had been present since I bought the car.

Jim, re the Hydramount, if I feel the engine at tickover it is vibrating violently
but if I feel its metal bracket where it bolts to the inner wing the vibration is negligible. I have taken this to indicate that the Hydramount is doing its job efficiently. Did you try this sort of test before you changed the rubber doughnut?

jim lee · 28th April 2014, 12:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by wuzerk

Jim, re the Hydramount, if I feel the engine at tickover it is vibrating violently
but if I feel its metal bracket where it bolts to the inner wing the vibration is negligible. I have taken this to indicate that the Hydramount is doing its job efficiently. Did you try this sort of test before you changed the rubber doughnut?

Yes, I did try this test before I changed the Hydramount but it was inconclusive. I was getting the annoying vibration at the steering wheel so, presumably something was being transmitted to the car's structure. Also, the biggest effect of changing the Hydramount was the improvement in the ride, probably a much lower frequency symptom than the engine induced vibration.

wuzerk · 10th May 2014, 14:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim lee

Yes, I did try this test before I changed the Hydramount but it was inconclusive. I was getting the annoying vibration at the steering wheel so, presumably something was being transmitted to the car's structure. Also, the biggest effect of changing the Hydramount was the improvement in the ride, probably a much lower frequency symptom than the engine induced vibration.

Jim, was changing the Hydramount straightforward in your case? I ask because I have tried to fit a new one and was defeated by the fact that when I attempted to undo the four bolts fixing the mount to the engine block
it twisted so much as soon as the bolts were loosened that I had to abandon
the exercise. It took a hefty crowbar to force the mount back in position in order to replace the couple of bolts which I had removed. The twist was so pronounced that I am wondering if the mount (one end of which sits on the rubber doughnuts centre spindle) is actually bent despite being such a hefty lump of metal.

jim lee · 12th May 2014, 14:56

Fred,

I did get your PM but I might not have sent my reply properly. So, I shall repeat it here.

I cannot help much with your problem as my garage did all the work for me. What I can say is that they had some difficulty unscrewing the old Hydramount from the car's body. They had to resort to a hammer and very blunt chisel to get it started. This was not a problem as the old unit was scrap anyway. They did not mention any other problem.

Best of luck tomorrow.

Jim

timbough77 · 4th November 2018, 19:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim lee

Having bought myself an 04 Reg, 46k miles, auto last November I am just now posting my first message.
Before its purchase, I had read much about the model's magic carpet ride. It is unfortunate that this is the one area with which I am disappointed. My last car was a humble Skoda Fabia and I must say it rode far more smoothly than my '75, to a degree that I can only assume is because of some fault or feature of this particular car. So I am asking for some advice.
Within days of buying the 75 I bought two new rear tyres (Goodyear). The fronts are Firestone with 6mm tread. Wheels are 16" Unions and the tyres are all 55% profile. I drove the car so little before fitting these new tyres I cannot say whether they have made any difference to the ride.
Generally the car handles well. Very stable steering, no pulling or tramlining and and is not affected by bumps. Also, there are no knocks or other noises from the suspension. However, on anything other than billiard table smooth roads it is very fidgity. In this regard it is put to shame by my old Skoda. It is also much worse than my son's 2010 Honda Civic fitted with incredibly low profile tyres.
I appreciate my 16" wheels with 55% profile tyres were not the highest profile fitted to the 75s, but neither were they the lowest.
In essence my question is; should I be looking for some particular suspension problem (worn dampers, broken springs etc.) or is this something I cannot change other than by fitting higher profile tyres (and smaller wheels)? Or do I have to sell the car?

Best regards and thanks to anybody who can offer their experience.

Jim Lee
Southampton

Hi Jim, I came across a later posting of yours to the above posting about a harsh ride in your Rover 75 wherein you seemed to have mostly resolved the problem by changing the dampers ,springs and struts.
I am new-ish to the forum and not very technical but have a Rover 75 Club SE 2.5 auto with a bumpy ride which has been driving me nuts.
I'm wondering if I was to do ask my local garage to change the springs and dampers if it would help, I did ask them last year about it but they were unsure.
Reading your post has given a bit of hope.
Our Rover is a lovely looking car but I don't enjoy driving it unless the road is very smooth.
Any feedback or advice from your experience would be very welcome.
best wishes
Tim
Salisbury

jim lee · 4th November 2018, 20:49

Tim,

I looked at many potential causes of what I considered to be the poor ride of my R75; at no little expense. Most of the changes I made are set out in earlier posts. However, the final one, which I think is not mentioned in those posts is to change the 16" wheels for 15". The higher profile tyres, 65% as opposed to 55%, give a greater depth of shock absorbing air filled rubber to isolate the car's structure from the road.

This change of wheels, and tyres, gave a noticeable improvement to a degree that I wish I had taken this step before I made the other changes, such as dampers and springs. I shall now avoid, like the plague, modern low profile tyres on any future car that I buy; to the point that tyre profile will be a deal breaker!

As far as advice concerning your R75 goes I would make sure there are no obvious issues, such as a previous owner having fitted suspension components from an MG, broken springs or siezed dampers etc. and only start on a path of replacing major parts with correct good quality components if you are willing and able to throw money at the car. I suspect by now you will have found the tip that codes for the correct springs and dampers for your car are to be found on a label beneath the rear seat cushion.

Good Luck
Jim Lee

tourer · 5th November 2018, 07:49

Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!!!
Only 4 and a half years.

COLVERT · 5th November 2018, 08:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by tourer

Holy Tread Resurrection, Batman!!!
Only 4 and a half years.

TREAD resurrection.--Lol.---Very appropriate.

My one has Firestone treads. Not too bad on the road.

Split_Pin · 5th November 2018, 11:36

Both my 75s have a very fidgety ride at the back. I put it down to my previous example having perished van tyres on the back however my current example with correct tyres still rides the same. Both have 15 inch wheels.

I test drive an 80k facelift example earlier in the year which had 17 inch wheels and the magic carpet ride was present.

It doesn't bother me enough to spend any money doing anything about it but it would be interesting to know nonetheless if there was a cheap remedy.

27th April 2014, 20:51	#51
NigelOBB This is my second home 04 Rover 75 Contemporary SE - 53 Rover 75 Connoisseur -94 Mercedes W140 - 72 VW Beetle 1300 Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Sunderland Posts: 4,767 Thanks: 1,379 Thanked 493 Times in 429 Posts	http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/suspension-bushes Here's a link __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Keep smiling - it makes people wonder what you've been up to.

5th November 2018, 07:49	#58
tourer Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Tourer CDT Auto. Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Long Eaton Posts: 1,344 Thanks: 30 Thanked 220 Times in 160 Posts	Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!!! Only 4 and a half years. Last edited by tourer; 5th November 2018 at 08:24..

12th May 2014, 14:56	#55
jim lee Regular poster Rover75 Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Southampton Posts: 96 Thanks: 6 Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts	Fred, I did get your PM but I might not have sent my reply properly. So, I shall repeat it here. I cannot help much with your problem as my garage did all the work for me. What I can say is that they had some difficulty unscrewing the old Hydramount from the car's body. They had to resort to a hammer and very blunt chisel to get it started. This was not a problem as the old unit was scrap anyway. They did not mention any other problem. Best of luck tomorrow. Jim

4th November 2018, 20:49	#57
jim lee Regular poster Rover75 Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Southampton Posts: 96 Thanks: 6 Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts	Tim, I looked at many potential causes of what I considered to be the poor ride of my R75; at no little expense. Most of the changes I made are set out in earlier posts. However, the final one, which I think is not mentioned in those posts is to change the 16" wheels for 15". The higher profile tyres, 65% as opposed to 55%, give a greater depth of shock absorbing air filled rubber to isolate the car's structure from the road. This change of wheels, and tyres, gave a noticeable improvement to a degree that I wish I had taken this step before I made the other changes, such as dampers and springs. I shall now avoid, like the plague, modern low profile tyres on any future car that I buy; to the point that tyre profile will be a deal breaker! As far as advice concerning your R75 goes I would make sure there are no obvious issues, such as a previous owner having fitted suspension components from an MG, broken springs or siezed dampers etc. and only start on a path of replacing major parts with correct good quality components if you are willing and able to throw money at the car. I suspect by now you will have found the tip that codes for the correct springs and dampers for your car are to be found on a label beneath the rear seat cushion. Good Luck Jim Lee

5th November 2018, 11:36	#60
Split_Pin Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Bonnybridge Posts: 65 Thanks: 37 Thanked 12 Times in 7 Posts	Both my 75s have a very fidgety ride at the back. I put it down to my previous example having perished van tyres on the back however my current example with correct tyres still rides the same. Both have 15 inch wheels. I test drive an 80k facelift example earlier in the year which had 17 inch wheels and the magic carpet ride was present. It doesn't bother me enough to spend any money doing anything about it but it would be interesting to know nonetheless if there was a cheap remedy.