Crankshaft Pulley Removal

[beinet1]

Originally Posted by RPWC

There is a special tightening sequence required, once new pulley is fitted , tighten to 100nm using torque wrench, then tighten 60 degrees, then 30 and 30 again. you will need a heavy duty socket, extension bar and power bar to do this, at the same time holding the pulley with the locking tool that John mentioned . When we did mine earlier in the year, we had to use 3/4 drive socket ,extension and power bar to even get the bolt to move after the first 100nm.

The torque setting depends on which engine that is fitted. As I remember both the 1.8 and KV6 is specified to be tightened to a specific torque (I do bot have the values in my memory..). I have no idea about the diesel engine, both that one might need a tighten to torque + angle??
In most cases, the flywheel needs to be locked to do this.

[spyder]

Originally Posted by beinet1

The torque setting depends on which engine that is fitted. As I remember both the 1.8 and KV6 is specified to be tightened to a specific torque (I do bot have the values in my memory..). I have no idea about the diesel engine, both that one might need a tighten to torque + angle??
In most cases, the flywheel needs to be locked to do this.

Most of us are talking about the diesel pulley that is tightened to infinity and beyond.
99.9% of the time the engine is still in the car, so the flywheel, as per your picture is not an option. Locking it with a screwdriver through the starter motor aperture could be problematic, although doable.
With the correct locking tool, attached to the pulley itself, the job is almost easy. Without it almost impossible.

I cannot imagine trying to torque it with the correct sequence, if the motor was out of the car-anyone ever tried this.

[beinet1]

Originally Posted by spyder

99.9% of the time the engine is still in the car, so the flywheel, as per your picture is not an option.

This is doable with the 1.8 with manual trans. You only need to remove the starter first (cables + 2-3 bolts). I have done this my self during a TB replacement. I am not sure if the 1.8 auto flywheel has the same grooves that you can lock an extension bar into. IIRC the torque for the 1.8 is around 200Nm and can easily be torqued as long as the car is in high gear with brakes applied (manual).

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by beinet1

This is doable with the 1.8 with manual trans. You only need to remove the starter first (cables + 2-3 bolts). I have done this my self during a TB replacement. I am not sure if the 1.8 auto flywheel has the same grooves that you can lock an extension bar into. IIRC the torque for the 1.8 is around 200Nm and can easily be torqued as long as the car is in high gear with brakes applied (manual).

A bit too much backlash through the various bits to get any real accuracy I would think. Very IFFY.---

[ballymenaman]

Originally Posted by yellowmitch

I have a good quality 18v impact wrench. Do you reckon that will do the job ballymenaman? Also, what had to be done after the bolt was removed? Was a specialist puller needed to remove the pulley?

Absolutely - mine is a DeWalt 18v and it just zipped the bolt off. Pulley will just come off in your hand! (my car is a 2.5 V6). Don't use the impact wrench to retighten though. Torque for the 2.5 bolt is 160nM and you'll need to find a way of holding the pulley while you tighten. There is a special landrover tool still available from Rimmers but it costs over £125. Look for "Crankshaft Locking Wrench KV6".

Can't say anything about the diesel - I believe it is a totally different kettle of fish!!

[SD1too]

Recently a question has been asked referring to the contents of this thread. Please note the following:

Originally Posted by TomRS

Automatic is as simple as leaving the car in park.

This is completely incorrect. With the selector in 'P' the pulley cannot be removed as the crankshaft will still turn.

Originally Posted by RPWC

There is a special tightening sequence required, once new pulley is fitted , tighten to 100nm using torque wrench, then tighten 60 degrees, then 30 and 30 again.

With thanks to Arctic, angular tightening applies only to the M47R engine and not the 1.8 petrol (the subject of this thread) or the KV6.
For the diesel, the sequence is 100 Nm + 60˚ + 60˚ + 30˚ and not as given in RPWC's post.

Originally Posted by ballymenaman

Don't use the impact wrench to retighten though. Torque for the 2.5 bolt is 160nM and you'll need to find a way of holding the pulley while you tighten.

So unless your powered impact gun can be set precisely to 160 Nm this means using the very expensive two part service tool or fabricating an equivalent (for petrol engines with automatic transmission).

Simon

[ceedy]

Just my experience with my cdti auto
Bought a new cortetco about 4-5 years ago, just in case ,as had noticed a vibration at around 1800-2000 rpm.

Since then had a few goes at shifting the crank bolt.
Using a locking tool each time couldn't shift with a 2ft bar.
Then bought a 980nm DeWalt impact gun, used this a few times with no luck, and my last go last year I used a long pipe over my breaker bar, and just snapped the 1/2 drive clean off.
So still got the pulley and a vibration

[trikey]

Originally Posted by ceedy

Just my experience with my cdti auto
Bought a new cortetco about 4-5 years ago, just in case ,as had noticed a vibration at around 1800-2000 rpm.

Since then had a few goes at shifting the crank bolt.
Using a locking tool each time couldn't shift with a 2ft bar.
Then bought a 980nm DeWalt impact gun, used this a few times with no luck, and my last go last year I used a long pipe over my breaker bar, and just snapped the 1/2 drive clean off.
So still got the pulley and a vibration

I want to try my Dewalt gun on your pulley bolt, it hasn't failed yet to remove one!

Sent from my SM-G780G using Tapatalk

[Vossy]

When I changed mine I tried all sorts of tools including a 3/4" drive air, also heating the bolt but all to no avail, in the end a truck owner friend lent me his 1" drive Milwaukee M18 impact driver which can use up to 2711 Nm of torque to undo difficult nuts or bolts.
The engine didn't even need to be locked to stop it moving, it was a couple of seconds of pure joy and the bolt was out, maybe overkill but not if it does the job

[Mike Noc]

Done a couple of these - home made locking tool, 3/4 drive socket, good quality breaker bar and a 5ft bit of scaffold pipe work a treat!