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11th May 2024, 11:06 | #11 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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During my research I measured a new, genuine 'O' ring (CDU 3858) and your memory serves you well, it was 3.0 mm cross-section sitting in a groove in my original factory thermostat housing 4.0 mm wide and 2.4 mm deep. The 'O' ring therefore protrudes 0.6 mm beyond the housing surface to provide the seal. I always recommend seeking parts sealed in a labelled MG Rover or X-Part bag for this job. As others have said, there are aftermarket parts sold innocently by reputable and responsible suppliers which are not correct dimensionally. If these are avoided, there should be no problem with the 'O' rings performing properly within their seating. I agree with you Ben that doing the job according to the manual enables the original parts to be refitted unbroken but with new 'O' rings, thus avoiding the problems raised by using the keyhole method. Simon
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11th May 2024, 13:34 | #12 |
Loves to post
Rover 75 Saloon. 2,5 V6 Conn.SE auto, Moonstone green, White gold, Dorchester red Join Date: Mar 2018
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Hello, and thank you all for your reactions! Appreciated and taken into acount.
During investigation where the leak came from, I noticed the following: Straight pipe: bone dry, both sides, even with the clips not completely at the ends. Inspected with a small telescopic mirror also from underneath in situ. Actual thermostat housing: dry in the bore connection and at the straight pipe as mentioned before. Curved pipe: harder to see, looked dry. The actual depth is indeed 2 cm, was in appr. 16 mm.), compared to the depth of the thermostat housing pipe going in the bore (and blocked by plastic components) is 14 mm. Cooling sensor: seemed wet around the connection with the hole, traces of liquid on the block itself around the sensor...I guess this was the problem. So, did it again today....keyhole method...(I am a rooky, not looking forward to play around with fuel lines etc. to do with the manifolds)....had to take everything out again. Dried every individual component and measured everything so I can compare later. Enough is said about the limited space if you use the keyhole method, problem was that I needed to tighten the cooling temp.sensor...and a 22 mm socket spanner is to big to use. Eventually I found a proper tiny adjustable spanner which I could get in and using "invers turning technique", I was able to tighten it properly. Luckely my hands are not that big, otherwhise... Indeed, if you are able to get the manifolds off, I think the job is more easy, specially to clean everything etc. Anyway, tested it and it stays dry in the V. So the third attempt worked thank God. So, my conclusions: first leakage caused by flattened O-rings. Changed the hole thermostat kit OEM from Rimmers. The outcoming thermostat and pipes I will keep as a spare together with new to order O-rings and clips. Second leakage caused by me not tightening proper enough the coolend temp. sensor. Could have saved myself the neccesary third attempt changing by tightening the sensor enough the second time. Did I learned something? Yes. Not an easy job for a beginner, but you will learn. I had all connections (breather pipes, electrics etc.) coloured by tape so I could not go wrong putting things back. Used cable ties to keep the hoses away while working inside the V. I was able to get the original curved pipe out completely without breaking any parts. I have used a small crowbar with a curved end, which (putted inside the curved pipe) I could lever left and right to get some movement in the curved pipe, followed by prying the plastic pipe in the rounded inner-corner agains the block to lift it up. Patience worked for me here. Now, next is the ventilator.....that seems not to work...next job but enough done for the last 3 days. Now time to get some proper resting and a good drink. Cheers and thanks for reading and commenting. Emiel
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Last edited by Azur; 11th May 2024 at 13:37.. |
11th May 2024, 20:21 | #13 | |
Posted a thing or two
rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011
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14th May 2024, 10:05 | #14 |
Give to Learn
Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010
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I am presuming that the stats with the stability pegs are no longer available ? i found these out back in late 2013/early 2014 which i used on my 190 after the original MG ones failed after 18months fitted by Lates.
So i fitted the ones below through keyhole and they lasted for 6yrs and until the car was used has spares. 1 I note that ECP seems to have a photo of them in their listing but am not sure if it's just that a photo, do not know what you receive if purchased. I've sent a message asking Nick if that is in fact what you receive waiting on an answer. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132172627840 If it is just that a listing photo then personally i think it needs removing because it is a false alarm for what you may be expecting.
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