How to fit front drop links (with pics)

MissMoppet · 8th October 2019, 08:58

Yes I know Arctic covered this with his usual exemplary detail here but the pics have been swallowed up by the great Photobucket or Tinypic in the sky, so as I was changing mine yesterday I thought I'd add some photos. Hope it helps. Pic below is new links from DMGRS.

First jack up the car and remove one road wheel, turning it towards you to provide better access.

Pic 3 Undo the bottom nut with 17mm ratchet.

Because of the strong upward pressure of the anti roll bar to release the bottom bolt lever the ARB down. (You will of course have to do the same to get it back when replacing).

Pic 5 Top nut. You can just fit a 17mm ring spanner on the top nut, then pull down the rubber boot to expose the flats of the 15mm nut. Takes time but work the nut off when you can slip the whole drop link out.

I could only get my 17mm ring spanner onto the top nut because this drop link I had replaced some years ago AND I had cut 7mm off the thread before fixing. Do the same here before fitting your new drop link. Screw the nut on 8mm then cut or grind off: unscrewing the nut will remove any burr.

To replace do the top nut first making sure you put the drop link behind the hub carrier before tightening as it will be easier to slot in the bottom nut. Use a steel lever to get the ARB in place.

Dave

clf · 8th October 2019, 09:41

Jack up the suspension arm when loosening/undoing then lower nut from the arb until the nut and threaded bar level out. This takes out the strain and twisting of the bottom nut.

Same for refitting

Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk

Arctic · 8th October 2019, 10:00

Hi Dave.
Nice to see another member posting up photo's of there jobs under taken

yes nearly all my thread photo's have been sucked up by PB

what hosting site are you using for your photo's.

Also if you keep the wheel straight to remove the bottom drop link nut there is no need to use a bar on the anti roll bar, you can then turn the wheel to aid removing the top nut.

As you point out a 17mm ring spanner will only fit over the thread if its been cut down, if not then you need to use a 17 ring spanner that as been grinded thinner.

MissMoppet · 8th October 2019, 10:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Dave.

what hosting site are you using for your photo's.

I just upload to this Forum as and when.

macafee2 · 8th October 2019, 10:15

I would offer that when fitting the new drop links, when tightening the nuts you need to put a spanner on the flats to stop them turning.

Re description for pic 5/6 the reason for cutting part of the bolt of it is length. It is so long you cannot get a ring spanner over the top as there is insufficient gap between bolt and the plate above

macafee2

RogerHeinz57 · 8th October 2019, 11:26

The use of a flair nut spanner will help with the obstruction on the top nut.

Alternatively, the cordless grinder will take the top joint clean off and a gentle tap will release the stub remaining in the leg.

eBay item number:192771084700
Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.

YHT · 20th May 2024, 17:24

Took one drop link off today. The bottom nut on the ARB was easy but as mentioned there was no chance of getting a spanner on the top nut though the flat on the bit underneath wasnt too bad. Ended up cutting it off with an abrasive disc making sure to tie the tow cables that run close to it out of the way first. The bit I cut off had a hexagon recess in it; good luck trying to get anything in there as the end of the thread is hard against the suspendsion spring. Had to be careful not to grind into the shoch absorber! Reason for changing it was that have been having "knocks" when on uneven road; part was the silencer tapping on the back bumper; hope replacing the drop link will cure the remainuing knock. Fingers crossed!

suzublu · 20th May 2024, 17:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by YHT

Took one drop link off today. The bottom nut on the ARB was easy but as mentioned there was no chance of getting a spanner on the top nut though the flat on the bit underneath wasnt too bad. Ended up cutting it off with an abrasive disc making sure to tie the tow cables that run close to it out of the way first. The bit I cut off had a hexagon recess in it; good luck trying to get anything in there as the end of the thread is hard against the suspendsion spring. Had to be careful not to grind into the shoch absorber! Reason for changing it was that have been having "knocks" when on uneven road; part was the silencer tapping on the back bumper; hope replacing the drop link will cure the remainuing knock. Fingers crossed!

I always pack the rubbers with grease before fitting, and do them in pairs 😎

Sent from my SM-A145R using Tapatalk

daveo138 · 20th May 2024, 19:20

If you raise both sides of the car and support it on axle stands, there will be no tension on the ARB, so it will be easy to remove and refit the bottom joint.

Arctic · 20th May 2024, 23:36

Photos are intact for ages now

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...tic+drop+links

8th October 2019, 09:41	#2
clf This is my second home MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: carrick Posts: 7,859 Thanks: 3,494 Thanked 2,657 Times in 1,973 Posts	Jack up the suspension arm when loosening/undoing then lower nut from the arb until the nut and threaded bar level out. This takes out the strain and twisting of the bottom nut. Same for refitting Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk __________________ It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver!

8th October 2019, 10:00	#3
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,799 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Hi Dave. Nice to see another member posting up photo's of there jobs under taken yes nearly all my thread photo's have been sucked up by PB what hosting site are you using for your photo's. Also if you keep the wheel straight to remove the bottom drop link nut there is no need to use a bar on the anti roll bar, you can then turn the wheel to aid removing the top nut. As you point out a 17mm ring spanner will only fit over the thread if its been cut down, if not then you need to use a 17 ring spanner that as been grinded thinner. __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

8th October 2019, 11:26	#6
RogerHeinz57 I really should get out more....... A Reasonably Priced Car Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Burton Latimer Posts: 2,530 Thanks: 408 Thanked 1,064 Times in 712 Posts	The use of a flair nut spanner will help with the obstruction on the top nut. Alternatively, the cordless grinder will take the top joint clean off and a gentle tap will release the stub remaining in the leg. eBay item number:192771084700 Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing. Last edited by RogerHeinz57; 8th October 2019 at 11:28.. Reason: .

20th May 2024, 23:36	#10
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,799 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Photos are intact for ages now https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...tic+drop+links __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

8th October 2019, 10:15	#5
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,967 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	I would offer that when fitting the new drop links, when tightening the nuts you need to put a spanner on the flats to stop them turning. Re description for pic 5/6 the reason for cutting part of the bolt of it is length. It is so long you cannot get a ring spanner over the top as there is insufficient gap between bolt and the plate above macafee2

20th May 2024, 17:24	#7
YHT Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: suffolk Posts: 287 Thanks: 46 Thanked 25 Times in 23 Posts	Took one drop link off today. The bottom nut on the ARB was easy but as mentioned there was no chance of getting a spanner on the top nut though the flat on the bit underneath wasnt too bad. Ended up cutting it off with an abrasive disc making sure to tie the tow cables that run close to it out of the way first. The bit I cut off had a hexagon recess in it; good luck trying to get anything in there as the end of the thread is hard against the suspendsion spring. Had to be careful not to grind into the shoch absorber! Reason for changing it was that have been having "knocks" when on uneven road; part was the silencer tapping on the back bumper; hope replacing the drop link will cure the remainuing knock. Fingers crossed!

20th May 2024, 19:20	#9
daveo138 Gets stuck in Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Mar 2022 Location: Chesterfield Posts: 721 Thanks: 206 Thanked 69 Times in 53 Posts	If you raise both sides of the car and support it on axle stands, there will be no tension on the ARB, so it will be easy to remove and refit the bottom joint.