KV6 temperature sensor seal - Page 2

Azur · 23rd May 2024, 11:44

resurrection of an old thread:
I have unfortunately noticed that my coolant temperature sensor is leaking after installation. Closer inspection of the hatched sensor reveals that a sealer washer is indeed needed between them. Very strange that in the complete thermostat kit ordered through Rimmers including a new sensor there is no sealer washer supplied with the sensor.

So again I need taking out the thermostat and putting a sealer washer in between....
Strange that through other ordering sites like autodoc, a sealer washer is just included.

Very annoying.... so be warned.

SD1too · 23rd May 2024, 13:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azur

So again I need taking out the thermostat and putting a sealer washer in between....

Emiel, I think you meant to say that you'll need to remove the coolant temperature sensor (not the thermostat) in order to fit the washer.

Simon

Azur · 23rd May 2024, 14:24

Hello Simon,

indeed, that is indeed what I meant. Though to be able to reach the sensor via the keyhole methode, I need to take some stuff away...

Or I need to bite the bullet and try it via the official methode. Anyway, still not nice that the sealer washer was not supplied while ordering a full kit from a professional company. I at least would expect that to be in the package.

Emiel

xsport · 23rd May 2024, 15:04

You can reach it using this method ,but only tighten it when the stat is out of the way. You can offer in the sensor from above with a hose (as i do with spark plugs ) and turn it until it slips. BUT you cannot tighten it up enough from above , unless using the plastic moulding on the sensor,which i would not recommend.The only practical solution is to remove the front manifold as per RAVE and fit your washer and even some sealant on the threads should you wish. Unless you can find or make a cranked spanner to fit somehow, then the only option is the rave way. Dont worry ,it happened to me once ! The time you would spend thinking of a device or tool to achieve this i think would be better spent on the official rover method .. Unless someone can suggest ..

xsport · 23rd May 2024, 18:10

So you can do it with the keyhole method if you remove the elbow and thermostat and pipe .You can then sort the temp sender out and refit the rest. Not forgetting to use new orings again. your old rings may be ok to use again,but if they leak, then i dont think you would be happy to go in there yet again , to rework the job im sure ! ...

Best to renew them ...

Azur · 23rd May 2024, 19:03

Yes for sure, although they have not driven 1 km, those O rings, but 4x in and out is not in the benefit of them, so I will order new ones. And, I am on speaking terms with a big o ring company. They are willing to have a look at the thermostat in combination with the oem supplied o rings to see if they can come up with a better type. Comes to the micrometers they have said. They can test the oem rings to determin exactly what type is used, in combination with the plastic parts Anyway, I will keep this posted.

xsport · 23rd May 2024, 20:04

Bear in mind that the thermostat will be brittle with regard to fitting larger orings. The last one i did had a groove which seemed far to deep and wide for the rings supplied. I cannot tell you which part was incorrect , either the ring depth or width , or the rings. I always use red rubber grease on mine to fit the parts,which i find not only aids fitting but protects the rings. It also dries out after a while with the heat ,giving a stronger seal. Dont go too far over in size and force the plastic to callaps either whilst being fitted or whilst in use. Let us know what size these people recommend for the ring size ,and measure your existing orings as well. They should be aware of the pressures and temperatures involved when selecting a suitable type...

SD1too · 23rd May 2024, 23:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azur

And, I am on speaking terms with a big o ring company. They are willing to have a look at the thermostat in combination with the oem supplied o rings to see if they can come up with a better type.

That's not necessary Emiel. The MG Rover 'O' rings will be reliable provided that the serrated clips on the straight pipe are moved fully outwards and secured after assembling the plastic parts. This is easy to do if you follow the official procedure as recommended by Stefan above rather than the keyhole method.

Simon

Matt_75 · 23rd May 2024, 23:25

The original sealing washer (for the temperature sensor) is aluminium, used because the engine block is aluminium and a copper washer may be too hard I believe. If you're struggling to find one the correct size, a sump washer (LSF100040 / ALU1403) could be substituted. The ID of the sump washer is a bit bigger than the original sensor washer, but it should still make a good seal.

Azur · 24th May 2024, 07:13

Thanks all for your reactions and advice, appreciated! On the hunt now for alu sealing washers. That they should be able to have in the local shop. The problem with having 3 75's is one car solved, another one is asking for maintenance...anyway, I'll keep posting my progression (hopefully).

Cheers from Holland,

Emiel

23rd May 2024, 11:44	#11
Azur Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon. 2,5 V6 Conn.SE auto, Moonstone green, White gold, Dorchester red Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Hollandscheveld Posts: 497 Thanks: 684 Thanked 280 Times in 117 Posts	resurrection of an old thread: I have unfortunately noticed that my coolant temperature sensor is leaking after installation. Closer inspection of the hatched sensor reveals that a sealer washer is indeed needed between them. Very strange that in the complete thermostat kit ordered through Rimmers including a new sensor there is no sealer washer supplied with the sensor. So again I need taking out the thermostat and putting a sealer washer in between.... Strange that through other ordering sites like autodoc, a sealer washer is just included. Very annoying.... so be warned. __________________

23rd May 2024, 14:24	#13
Azur Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon. 2,5 V6 Conn.SE auto, Moonstone green, White gold, Dorchester red Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Hollandscheveld Posts: 497 Thanks: 684 Thanked 280 Times in 117 Posts	Hello Simon, indeed, that is indeed what I meant. Though to be able to reach the sensor via the keyhole methode, I need to take some stuff away... Or I need to bite the bullet and try it via the official methode. Anyway, still not nice that the sealer washer was not supplied while ordering a full kit from a professional company. I at least would expect that to be in the package. Emiel __________________

23rd May 2024, 19:03	#16
Azur Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon. 2,5 V6 Conn.SE auto, Moonstone green, White gold, Dorchester red Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Hollandscheveld Posts: 497 Thanks: 684 Thanked 280 Times in 117 Posts	Yes for sure, although they have not driven 1 km, those O rings, but 4x in and out is not in the benefit of them, so I will order new ones. And, I am on speaking terms with a big o ring company. They are willing to have a look at the thermostat in combination with the oem supplied o rings to see if they can come up with a better type. Comes to the micrometers they have said. They can test the oem rings to determin exactly what type is used, in combination with the plastic parts Anyway, I will keep this posted. __________________

23rd May 2024, 23:25	#19
Matt_75 Gets stuck in 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2022 Location: North Somerset Posts: 600 Thanks: 13 Thanked 20 Times in 8 Posts	The original sealing washer (for the temperature sensor) is aluminium, used because the engine block is aluminium and a copper washer may be too hard I believe. If you're struggling to find one the correct size, a sump washer (LSF100040 / ALU1403) could be substituted. The ID of the sump washer is a bit bigger than the original sensor washer, but it should still make a good seal. __________________ Matt 2001 Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.5 (BRG) 1999 Rover 75 Club 2.5 (Dorchester Red) 1973 Triumph Dolomite (Honeysuckle)

24th May 2024, 07:13	#20
Azur Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon. 2,5 V6 Conn.SE auto, Moonstone green, White gold, Dorchester red Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Hollandscheveld Posts: 497 Thanks: 684 Thanked 280 Times in 117 Posts	Thanks all for your reactions and advice, appreciated! On the hunt now for alu sealing washers. That they should be able to have in the local shop. The problem with having 3 75's is one car solved, another one is asking for maintenance...anyway, I'll keep posting my progression (hopefully). Cheers from Holland, Emiel __________________

23rd May 2024, 15:04	#14
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,741 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	You can reach it using this method ,but only tighten it when the stat is out of the way. You can offer in the sensor from above with a hose (as i do with spark plugs ) and turn it until it slips. BUT you cannot tighten it up enough from above , unless using the plastic moulding on the sensor,which i would not recommend.The only practical solution is to remove the front manifold as per RAVE and fit your washer and even some sealant on the threads should you wish. Unless you can find or make a cranked spanner to fit somehow, then the only option is the rave way. Dont worry ,it happened to me once ! The time you would spend thinking of a device or tool to achieve this i think would be better spent on the official rover method .. Unless someone can suggest ..

23rd May 2024, 18:10	#15
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,741 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	So you can do it with the keyhole method if you remove the elbow and thermostat and pipe .You can then sort the temp sender out and refit the rest. Not forgetting to use new orings again. your old rings may be ok to use again,but if they leak, then i dont think you would be happy to go in there yet again , to rework the job im sure ! ... Best to renew them ...

23rd May 2024, 20:04	#17
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,741 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	Bear in mind that the thermostat will be brittle with regard to fitting larger orings. The last one i did had a groove which seemed far to deep and wide for the rings supplied. I cannot tell you which part was incorrect , either the ring depth or width , or the rings. I always use red rubber grease on mine to fit the parts,which i find not only aids fitting but protects the rings. It also dries out after a while with the heat ,giving a stronger seal. Dont go too far over in size and force the plastic to callaps either whilst being fitted or whilst in use. Let us know what size these people recommend for the ring size ,and measure your existing orings as well. They should be aware of the pressures and temperatures involved when selecting a suitable type...