M47 Diesel Engine Whine / Whistle On The Overun - Page 11

navrac · 7th April 2011, 09:29

ah - thanks for that - rimmer brothers had helpfully labeled the part 'high pressure regulator'.

I will wait until someone locates the correct part and works out what to do!

flyer_phil · 7th April 2011, 09:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by navrac

ah - thanks for that - rimmer brothers had helpfully labeled the part 'high pressure regulator'.

I will wait until someone locates the correct part and works out what to do!

I think the best thing to do is just source a used early regulator. had one quote for £40 so far. New ones are over a ton and will be the new type.

navrac · 7th April 2011, 10:41

while doing a search on the regulator I came across a thread on the MG-rover.org forums which actually mentioned that changing between the old and new regulator types caused the whine. So the answer has been out there for nearly two years!

Having read the entire thread of 14 pages, I am completely in awe of the guy who was trying to fix his uneven idle and the lengths he went to to try and fix it and the support from a lot of familiar names. Well worth the read- it goes under the name of 'diesel injector pump pressure regulator' - I won't put the link in as I believe its bad form to link to other forums, but if you have half an hour to kill it's a real eye opener into the workings of the injection systems on our cars.

I must admit I really don't fancy playing with the HP side of the fuel system - well out of my comfort zone and with big bills for getting it wrong.

I might buy an old regulator whilst they are still reasonably priced and then wait till someone writes a how to and fit it then - when the prices of the regulators will shoot through the roof!

Apparently lynx diesels sell new seals for around a fiver and the regulator looks like this..

http://rovermg1.free.fr/rovermg/imag...O0AmTE5JHU.jpg

flyer_phil · 7th April 2011, 18:41

I just had another look for the hp regulator and spotted it (with torch). Its just behind the oil filter housing, slightly lower and to the left of the starter motor, on the end of the pump. I think it might be removable without taking off the starter motor.

However it will need a torx key with a right angle bend in it. Bit of a fiddly job. The engine cover and air intake will of course have to be removed to get at it.

I just sent a PM to Kestis1 with questions, as follows:

Hi Kestis

Thanks for the work in discovering the source of the annoying whine. I have a few questions.
1) Did you manage to remove the regulator without removing the starter motor ?
2) According to the literature, the regulator has two seals, one small, one large which I assume fit into the hole that the regulator fits in. Is this correct?
3) Are the old type and new type interchangeable?
4) I don't understand the difference between the old and the new. Does the old type have a rubber ring between the end of the regulator and the face of the pump?
5) Is the new type (which has a metal mating face) simply bolted to the pump giving a metal to metal contact? Hence the noise.
6) Would a solution be to make a rubber gasket to fit between the metal to metal contact? Your solution was to put some sealing compound between the two faces, is this correct?
7) Would it be possible for you to make a small diagram and put it on the thread?

Thanks for your help

navrac · 8th April 2011, 09:12

Excellent questions - the answers should help.

I have one further one for anyone who has worked on the HP side - how do you safely release the pressure from the HP side before working on it - I've worked with 10k+ PSI pumps before and I've seen what a small leak can do to 3/4" steel plate so I don't fancy doing the same with my finger!

vilas66 · 8th June 2011, 03:02

I came across a Freelander TD4 HP fuel pump (picture attached);
1 . It is the same pump ?
2 . the regulator causing the annoying whine is the one visible in picture (terminating with electrical connector) ?

blinkinink · 30th August 2011, 23:40

Any more info on this?
regarding the high pressure side of things and safety.
and also whether there are any easy gaskets that can be made to dampen instead of replacing the unit?

the noise is doing my head in....

Jules · 31st August 2011, 00:59

Phil
Did you get reply from Kestis1, as I'm dubious about putting any sort of sealer in contact with high pressure fuel?

Wonder if his solution is still working?

blinkinink · 13th September 2011, 22:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by vilas66

I came across a Freelander TD4 HP fuel pump (picture attached);
1 . It is the same pump ?
2 . the regulator causing the annoying whine is the one visible in picture (terminating with electrical connector) ?

Looks to be the same. I have ordered a 2003 cdti one from a breaker to go on my 2004 facelift....

Hopefully will solve it and have cost £40...

Jules · 13th September 2011, 22:46

It's a shame Kestis1 has not posted any more on this (only 3 posts total) as we will never know if his repair lasted or not !!

7th April 2011, 10:41	#103
navrac Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Conn SE CDTI facelift Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Suffolk Posts: 387 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	while doing a search on the regulator I came across a thread on the MG-rover.org forums which actually mentioned that changing between the old and new regulator types caused the whine. So the answer has been out there for nearly two years! Having read the entire thread of 14 pages, I am completely in awe of the guy who was trying to fix his uneven idle and the lengths he went to to try and fix it and the support from a lot of familiar names. Well worth the read- it goes under the name of 'diesel injector pump pressure regulator' - I won't put the link in as I believe its bad form to link to other forums, but if you have half an hour to kill it's a real eye opener into the workings of the injection systems on our cars. I must admit I really don't fancy playing with the HP side of the fuel system - well out of my comfort zone and with big bills for getting it wrong. I might buy an old regulator whilst they are still reasonably priced and then wait till someone writes a how to and fit it then - when the prices of the regulators will shoot through the roof! Apparently lynx diesels sell new seals for around a fiver and the regulator looks like this.. http://rovermg1.free.fr/rovermg/imag...O0AmTE5JHU.jpg Last edited by navrac; 7th April 2011 at 10:44.. Reason: added link to picture

7th April 2011, 18:41	#104
flyer_phil Loves to post Rover 75 CDT Classic, 2003, Moonstone Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Chesterfield at the moment Posts: 411 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	I just had another look for the hp regulator and spotted it (with torch). Its just behind the oil filter housing, slightly lower and to the left of the starter motor, on the end of the pump. I think it might be removable without taking off the starter motor. However it will need a torx key with a right angle bend in it. Bit of a fiddly job. The engine cover and air intake will of course have to be removed to get at it. I just sent a PM to Kestis1 with questions, as follows: Hi Kestis Thanks for the work in discovering the source of the annoying whine. I have a few questions. 1) Did you manage to remove the regulator without removing the starter motor ? 2) According to the literature, the regulator has two seals, one small, one large which I assume fit into the hole that the regulator fits in. Is this correct? 3) Are the old type and new type interchangeable? 4) I don't understand the difference between the old and the new. Does the old type have a rubber ring between the end of the regulator and the face of the pump? 5) Is the new type (which has a metal mating face) simply bolted to the pump giving a metal to metal contact? Hence the noise. 6) Would a solution be to make a rubber gasket to fit between the metal to metal contact? Your solution was to put some sealing compound between the two faces, is this correct? 7) Would it be possible for you to make a small diagram and put it on the thread? Thanks for your help Last edited by flyer_phil; 7th April 2011 at 19:03.. Reason: questions

31st August 2011, 00:59	#108
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	Phil Did you get reply from Kestis1, as I'm dubious about putting any sort of sealer in contact with high pressure fuel? Wonder if his solution is still working? __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

13th September 2011, 22:46	#110
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	It's a shame Kestis1 has not posted any more on this (only 3 posts total) as we will never know if his repair lasted or not !! __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

7th April 2011, 09:29	#101
navrac Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Conn SE CDTI facelift Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Suffolk Posts: 387 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	ah - thanks for that - rimmer brothers had helpfully labeled the part 'high pressure regulator'. I will wait until someone locates the correct part and works out what to do!

8th April 2011, 09:12	#105
navrac Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Conn SE CDTI facelift Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Suffolk Posts: 387 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Excellent questions - the answers should help. I have one further one for anyone who has worked on the HP side - how do you safely release the pressure from the HP side before working on it - I've worked with 10k+ PSI pumps before and I've seen what a small leak can do to 3/4" steel plate so I don't fancy doing the same with my finger!

30th August 2011, 23:40	#107
blinkinink Regular poster MG ZT-T+ 135 Cdti Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Neath Posts: 71 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Any more info on this? regarding the high pressure side of things and safety. and also whether there are any easy gaskets that can be made to dampen instead of replacing the unit? the noise is doing my head in....