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#111 | ||||
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
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Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
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#112 |
Senior Citizen
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur SE,Chrysler 300C,124 Spider, Daytona 955i,Honda XL250 & Royal Enfield 650GT Join Date: Feb 2008
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![]() In the recent past, I have spoken to the curator at Gaydon and the first Rover 75 car is still on the original belts. This is due to the unusual scenario of it being predominately a display car, being unregistered and not used on the road.
I feel that it is a red herring to use this as an example, as I can’t think of any other car that is like this one. Perhaps this one currently for sale would be a better example. ![]()
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#113 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Saloon 2.5 Join Date: Jul 2012
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![]() Only as FYI: I changed the original belts on my 2001 R75 last year with it having done 75,000KM's. The previous one owner was elderly and the car clearly had an easy life. The belts were perfect, no cracks or any sign of deterioration. I could not tell any difference in length between the original and the new ones. I do think the idler and tensioner pulleys may have been a bit noisy, but then again I believe one of the new ones made a bit of a metallic scraping noise for a few minutes when I started it up ....
But my Power Steering pump has a whirr, I can only put that down to the strut top bearings being almost seized when I bought it. Seems to be one issue not driven by mileage. |
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#114 |
This is my second home
Hyundai i10 998cc Join Date: Mar 2012
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![]() Hi.
When I was in my last job one of our customers was Gates in Dumfries. I managed to chat to one of the boffins one day and he came up with some interesting points. A great many belts are generic, often they are the same belts used in many different applications, not just as timing or cam belts but transmission drive belts for road sweepers, conveyor systems and all sorts. He made the point to me that on other uses the belt is "inspection" only on an annual service and the belt can actually last 20 or more years with no visible wear, in other cases they can fail in 5 years. The reason the car manufacturer specifies a time as well as mileage is the different operating conditions in a car. The loading on a timing belt is constantly changing, pulses from the cams, changes in engine speed alters the loading but more importantly thermal changes and that happens on low mileage engines too. As my man in gates said to me, a toothed belt that is the same type as in an engine that's used on a conveyor system will last for years but may just break in an engine due to ageing, I personally would rather stick with the recommendations, its not a conveyor we are driving!
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#115 | ||
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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#116 |
This is my second home
Hyundai i10 998cc Join Date: Mar 2012
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![]() One thing to consider is this. How many engines have you stripped that have been stationary for weeks or months? Well if you have you will see the belt has taken on a "set" where it was stopped at. This happens even over night. This is actually lightly stressing the belt, once running the stress changes again. Surely a belt stopped is still under stress and likely to develop minute cracks around pulleys, the set they develop would in my opinion be the worry on low mileage cars
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#117 |
I really should get out more.......
MG ZT-T, Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Mar 2011
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![]() Personally i've not seen a "worn" belt as such but the idler pulleys are a different matter, the plastic wheel broken, cracked and the centre bearings breaking up.
Its the same scenario as engine oil, change it every 15000 miles or yearly, so if you only did 1K per year would you only change it after 15 years ignoring the recommended time interval? No i dont think so! |
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#118 |
This is my second home
MG ZT260 SE, MG ZT190+, MG ZTT 160, R75 Conn SE 2.0, R75 Conn SE 2.5 X 3, R75 Club SE 1.8, P5B Coupe Join Date: Jul 2009
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![]() I would agree that the only 'broken' or visually 'worn' belts I have come across on the KV6 have been the result of one of the three pulleys (tensioner/idler/water pump) either broken up or worn due to bearing issues (or both if the bearing has seized !)
I also agree that because these belts are under a constant tension & this must take its toll even you can't actually see it. In my opinion, it's a no brainer..............if you care about the car & its engine, why wouldn't you change the belts etc on or even a little before the recommended interval ?!! |
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#119 |
This is my second home
MG ZT-T 190 Join Date: Jun 2009
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![]() I think you can in some ways ignore the time limits in the right circumstances but you have to be sensible. In years to come would a barn find 30 years old with 30,000 miles be left till it hits 90,000 miles? I don't think you would.
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#120 |
Avid contributor
MG ZT Join Date: Nov 2014
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![]() I'd have to change my belts when due as the stress of driving and thinking it could go anytime would be to much!
My old Cortina broke it's cam belt a few times, used to go when pulling away from standstill. Not the best thing to happen at traffic lights when sat in a queue of traffic! |
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