How to remove locking wheel nut - Page 2

Arctic · 16th January 2018, 01:56

Grind a V in the end of the bolt, and or cut through the slip ring on the bolt, use a small grinding wheel in a dremel.

Once you have a v wedge on the end of the bolt use a chisel to tap the bolt round, if you do it careful you should not damage the wheel.

Photo's below I had to do each one because the removal socket was missing so had no choice, I wanted them off so I could have the wheels refurbished, try it but go slow and take care once you have them off get rid.

Wheels before refurbish

1

After refurbish

2

Synchromesh · 16th January 2018, 11:59

One of the national tyre companies over tightened my wheels. I took the car back. hey tried a breaker bar but they were too tight for this so they used the air tool. The locking bolt heads shattered. They bought a special tool. It had soft metal inserts that fitted into a reuseable punch. The tool was placed over the locking bolt head then they hit it with a big hammer. The insert moulded to the shape of the bolt head. Then they turned the punch with the air tool.

Randyjim · 16th January 2018, 12:21

Swift Fit just off Cole Avenue helped me out when I mullered the same type of locking nut on my car. They have the kit that Syncromesh mentioned for making a temporary tool for dealing with damaged nuts.

Perhaps you could try them: http://swiftfit.uk.com/find-us/

pete 75 · 16th January 2018, 13:20

Thanks everybody for the helpful advice,i am borrowing the mig welder from work tonight,i have got the largest hexagon nut that will fit on top of the locking wheel nut bearing in mind the alloy wheels I have fitted the end of the locking nut sits below the surface of the wheel,i have drilled the centre of the nut out to 13mm hopefully that will allow me enough room to weld,fingers crossed I will let you no how it goes.

freddie · 16th January 2018, 16:01

Just a question when did they change from nuts,
because mine has bolts.

roverbarmy · 16th January 2018, 16:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by freddie

Just a question when did they change from nuts,
because mine has bolts.

Mine too Freddie (2005). My first job was to remove the lockers and throw them away.

Luckily, they came off OK.

16th January 2018, 13:20	#14
pete 75 Regular poster rover 75 tourer cdti, mg zt 260,mg tf 1.8 spark Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Gloucester Posts: 87 Thanks: 26 Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts	Thanks everybody for the helpful advice,i am borrowing the mig welder from work tonight,i have got the largest hexagon nut that will fit on top of the locking wheel nut bearing in mind the alloy wheels I have fitted the end of the locking nut sits below the surface of the wheel,i have drilled the centre of the nut out to 13mm hopefully that will allow me enough room to weld,fingers crossed I will let you no how it goes. Last edited by pete 75; 16th January 2018 at 13:24..

16th January 2018, 16:01	#15
freddie Passed Away 75 cdti connoisseur se saloon Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: norwich Posts: 11,360 Thanks: 1,171 Thanked 1,921 Times in 1,345 Posts	Just a question when did they change from nuts, because mine has bolts. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][ LADY IN RED

16th January 2018, 11:59	#12
Synchromesh Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Preston Posts: 626 Thanks: 50 Thanked 44 Times in 32 Posts	One of the national tyre companies over tightened my wheels. I took the car back. hey tried a breaker bar but they were too tight for this so they used the air tool. The locking bolt heads shattered. They bought a special tool. It had soft metal inserts that fitted into a reuseable punch. The tool was placed over the locking bolt head then they hit it with a big hammer. The insert moulded to the shape of the bolt head. Then they turned the punch with the air tool.

16th January 2018, 12:21	#13
Randyjim Regular poster MG ZT 190 Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Gloucester Posts: 84 Thanks: 30 Thanked 25 Times in 21 Posts	Swift Fit just off Cole Avenue helped me out when I mullered the same type of locking nut on my car. They have the kit that Syncromesh mentioned for making a temporary tool for dealing with damaged nuts. Perhaps you could try them: http://swiftfit.uk.com/find-us/