Carrier Bolt; Help Rqd, West Mids

[Drewski]

Originally Posted by Arctic

so did you try the 11/16" Irwin on it, the front ones usually are easier to remove, do let us know.

I have got a 11/16 one but it's too big for what's left!! Each side of the bolt head had about 1-2mm of crusty rust on which just fell off.
Have to set off to Cambridge in a bit, after visiting my dad at Tile Cross. Was going to try hammering the carrier to see if it loosens but worried I'll be completely car-less.

[Drewski]

Originally Posted by Arctic

the front ones usually are easier to remove.

The other side front came out no problem, and the lower one on this side but this top one just won't budge - bloomin' thing!

[Ducati750cc]

Originally Posted by Drewski

The other side front came out no problem, and the lower one on this side but this top one just won't budge - bloomin' thing!

Do you know anyone locally, friend, with a TIG welder who could weld a larger nut over what's left of the stud at your home ?


I've successfully done this quite a few times over the years, a combination of a few days of PlusGas not only at the back of the stud head but also at the carrier to hub joint with the hope it will wick down to the threads and shank.


Then a Dremmel to get the stud 100% free of rust, I try to do the weld in one pass at as high Amps as possible to ensure good penetration especially at the bottom of the nut and the nut to stud joint, this can be done with a stick welder at a pinch but there is the chance of slag contamination and in such a restricted area less control of the weld pool.


In this case, before welding I would heat the carrier to hub area and try as Nantwich says to get it to move either way with a lump hammer, hoping to break the rust bond between the faces and a possible rust bond between the stud shank and hole in the hub.


Then as the weld cools past visible red, use a good fitting impact socket breaker bar and hammer, attempt to move the stud slightly in either direction, but don't swing on it too hard clockwise, the welding heat and impacts whilst leaning heavy on the breaker bar usually shifts them.



One other option, which is a bit drastic and would require a new carrier, is to cut through the top and bottom of the carrier with a 1mm -2mm cutting disc, in line with the disc, removing the outer ' ears' which would at least allow disc and back plate (if needed ) removal to allow it to be attacked, the threaded portion of the stud drilled out from the other side, or heat to be applied directly to the threaded area, as I said drastic, a bit long winded and care would have to be taken not to damage the hub.


Good luck.

[Pete]

If the fixing size has shrunk you could try hammering a 1/2" socket on and lean on that.

[Pete]

By the way:

[Drewski]

Originally Posted by Ducati750cc

Good luck.

Cheers mate, some good advice there, I thought about heat but I've only got a Butane torch here so I couldn't really get it hot enough. I've used the "welded nut" trick a few times on broken bike exhaust studs but that's at home not in Birmingham, I did think about making the local garage mechanic an offer of £50 if I get the car ready in his car park and he just undo the bolt but I don't really know him well enough and didn't want him to think I was taking the Mickey.
The problem I have is that the car is needed all the time at the moment and I didn't want to start something on the drive that I couldn't finish from lack of parts. Anyway, car drove not too bad in the end, I just drove carefully with the old disc. 'Will try the new bolt removers when they arrive on Thursday, maybe have a look at a new carrier too so I can use the old one as you suggest.

[Drewski]

Originally Posted by Pete

By the way:

too right, a few more inches go a long way. 'Just picked up a 3/8 breaker bar 20 mins ago!

[Pete]

A butane blowtorch is often fine enough to get enough heat into the stuck fastening and cause enough expansion to disrupt the seizure, it just takes time if you're outside and you need to watch the flame doesn't wander near any dangling sensor wires or the driveshaft boot. Even better, if you swap the butane blowtorch for one using Mapp gas the flame is hotter.

[Matt_75]

Originally Posted by Pete

A butane blowtorch is often fine enough to get enough heat into the stuck fastening and cause enough expansion to disrupt the seizure, it just takes time if you're outside and you need to watch the flame doesn't wander near any dangling sensor wires or the driveshaft boot. Even better, if you swap the butane blowtorch for one using Mapp gas the flame is hotter.

I've got a cheap butane torch, cost about £15 with 4 little bottles of gas. It's helped me out with stuck fasteners a few times. As you said, you just have to be careful of rubber/plastics etc.

[Drewski]

After buying about 4 sets of fluted rounded bolt removers before getting one that would hammer onto the bolt tightly, they still wouldn't shift it so I took it to the local garage. he got plenty of heat on it, cut a slot and chiseled it to get it moving. I was tempted to cut the head off but knew I'd just be left with the stud so gave up!
All new discs and pads now at last

The mechanic advised me to flog the car as the rear arms were on the way out. I told him I'd got a new pair to go on and he said it wasn't a job he'd like to tackle