Dead steering wheel electrics - Page 2

okenora · 16th September 2013, 10:39

There will really only be one identifiable end on it, the end where the ribbon cable is full coiled tight, when you turn it from there it will simply uncoil loads until it flips the other way, then starts tightening again the wrong way about, potentially causing damage. I would wind it tight (very gently), then move 2 -3 turns (3.5 turns lock to lock on car) from there to get a starting/centre point. Be gentle though, I took one apart and does not look like it would take too much stress in the wrong way to break it.

Trophy Blue Tourer · 16th September 2013, 11:41

To get the coupler set correctly!!

First Identify the rear and front faces - the rear has the holes for the attachment screws in it the front face has the socket for the wiring

If you look at the front face of the coupler (the side that faces you when you remove the wheel) you will see that the socket for the wiring should be at the top and at the 3 o-clock position there should be a small blue plastic piece visible between the 2 rotating sections (this is the remains of the locking clip that is used to lock the item in the correct place when new - the rest is "snapped off" once the coupler is installed)

On the other side at approx 9/10 o-clock you will see there is a hole with a black plastic "lump" in it!! if you GENTLY turn the coupler face clockwise (IIRC) until it stops and then unwind it aprox 2/2.5/3 turns you will see this "lump) rotate in the hole and a white mark will show on the edge of the lump - you may find the wiring "socket" is slightly to one side or the other of the 12 o-clock position turn the face the shortest distance to bring it back to the top and its set ready to install!!-this may result in the white mark moving slightly and only being partly exposed - however this is still correct

- NOTE - there is no spring as such in this unit other than the flat strip cable itself - if it feels "springy" then you have reached a point past which you will cause damage!!!!!!!!!

IMPORTANT !!!!!
Obviously you need the ROAD wheels to be in the straight ahead position when you fit these and not just the steering wheel!!

HTH?

Andy

P.S ! you can have a fiddle with the old one once you have the steering wheel off as the face will rotate and you (providing the cable inside isn't completely snapped - which is a possibility here as IIRC this fault was caused during a clutch change?) can see if the "white" mark appears/disappears if its not working and the system senses the tension on the cable apparently (rave

) then obviously the cable is snapped !!
My old unit developed a fault just on one of the cruise buttons so hadn't actually snapped!

PPS the offers still there for the MK meet if you don't get it sorted before!!

Trevor1975 · 16th September 2013, 11:51

I bought a used 'clock spring assembly' (as they are called) complete with indicator stalks...

Like this but with stalks... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-M...item51b1c5ac0b

I had the steering set centrally and, after having broken the original one when changing the steering wheel, I counted the turns.

It goes 5 turns each way, so i turned it to one extreme carefully, then turned it back about 2.5 turns to line up.

Then I checked it about 4 more turns before fitting it properly. It has been fine since.

If you need any advice let me know...

zoomer · 25th September 2013, 14:59

Oh well. After much struggling with the torx screws I now cant get the yellowblue connection out the back of the airbag. Ive had the batt disconnected for 24 hours ( over cautious?) I've checked the procedure on here for steering wheel removal and unclipped the yellow part of the clip but it wont come free of the bag! I know I'm a coward but I feel I'm on a tour of Helmand province with this thing.

zoomer · 25th September 2013, 15:14

This is driving me nuts. Do I pull it out straight? Wiggle it? Slide it or what? It just wont budge and obviouslh I dont wanna use too much force.

zoomer · 25th September 2013, 16:27

Ok ok. Brute force. Pulls straight out. No angle or twist. Good.

zoomer · 25th September 2013, 18:18

I would have to call this repair a complete success. As said 20 min job if you have the correct tools and experience (I had neither) seems good now. I can once again peep my hooter and turn radio 4 up without the annoyance of having to move my hand all the way to the radio. Thanks to okenora and trophy blue tourer (great step by step guidence and spot on (remember them)) and thanks to mike for the post about steering wheel removal and finally, to my family and fans. Thanks all . Mot tomorrow!

16th September 2013, 11:41	#12
Trophy Blue Tourer Gets stuck in MG ZT-T Trophy Blue CDTI Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 883 Thanks: 11 Thanked 25 Times in 18 Posts	To get the coupler set correctly!! First Identify the rear and front faces - the rear has the holes for the attachment screws in it the front face has the socket for the wiring If you look at the front face of the coupler (the side that faces you when you remove the wheel) you will see that the socket for the wiring should be at the top and at the 3 o-clock position there should be a small blue plastic piece visible between the 2 rotating sections (this is the remains of the locking clip that is used to lock the item in the correct place when new - the rest is "snapped off" once the coupler is installed) On the other side at approx 9/10 o-clock you will see there is a hole with a black plastic "lump" in it!! if you GENTLY turn the coupler face clockwise (IIRC) until it stops and then unwind it aprox 2/2.5/3 turns you will see this "lump) rotate in the hole and a white mark will show on the edge of the lump - you may find the wiring "socket" is slightly to one side or the other of the 12 o-clock position turn the face the shortest distance to bring it back to the top and its set ready to install!!-this may result in the white mark moving slightly and only being partly exposed - however this is still correct - NOTE - there is no spring as such in this unit other than the flat strip cable itself - if it feels "springy" then you have reached a point past which you will cause damage!!!!!!!!! IMPORTANT !!!!! Obviously you need the ROAD wheels to be in the straight ahead position when you fit these and not just the steering wheel!! HTH? Andy P.S ! you can have a fiddle with the old one once you have the steering wheel off as the face will rotate and you (providing the cable inside isn't completely snapped - which is a possibility here as IIRC this fault was caused during a clutch change?) can see if the "white" mark appears/disappears if its not working and the system senses the tension on the cable apparently (rave) then obviously the cable is snapped !! My old unit developed a fault just on one of the cruise buttons so hadn't actually snapped! PPS the offers still there for the MK meet if you don't get it sorted before!! Last edited by Trophy Blue Tourer; 16th September 2013 at 11:46..

16th September 2013, 11:51	#13
Trevor1975 Gets stuck in Rover 75 saloon cdt club SE 1999 Join Date: May 2013 Location: Gloucester Posts: 744 Thanks: 142 Thanked 67 Times in 48 Posts	I bought a used 'clock spring assembly' (as they are called) complete with indicator stalks... Like this but with stalks... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-M...item51b1c5ac0b I had the steering set centrally and, after having broken the original one when changing the steering wheel, I counted the turns. It goes 5 turns each way, so i turned it to one extreme carefully, then turned it back about 2.5 turns to line up. Then I checked it about 4 more turns before fitting it properly. It has been fine since. If you need any advice let me know... __________________ Had a 1999 CDT Club SE - Sandstone Leather interior, EGR bypass, 160 remap, 21psi boost, inline thermostat housing ... Sold...

16th September 2013, 10:39	#11
okenora Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Conn CDT SE + intelligence pack Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Enniskillen Posts: 1,094 Thanks: 6 Thanked 141 Times in 128 Posts	There will really only be one identifiable end on it, the end where the ribbon cable is full coiled tight, when you turn it from there it will simply uncoil loads until it flips the other way, then starts tightening again the wrong way about, potentially causing damage. I would wind it tight (very gently), then move 2 -3 turns (3.5 turns lock to lock on car) from there to get a starting/centre point. Be gentle though, I took one apart and does not look like it would take too much stress in the wrong way to break it.

25th September 2013, 14:59	#14
zoomer Newbie Rover 75 sallon Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Essex Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Oh well. After much struggling with the torx screws I now cant get the yellowblue connection out the back of the airbag. Ive had the batt disconnected for 24 hours ( over cautious?) I've checked the procedure on here for steering wheel removal and unclipped the yellow part of the clip but it wont come free of the bag! I know I'm a coward but I feel I'm on a tour of Helmand province with this thing.

25th September 2013, 15:14	#15
zoomer Newbie Rover 75 sallon Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Essex Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	This is driving me nuts. Do I pull it out straight? Wiggle it? Slide it or what? It just wont budge and obviouslh I dont wanna use too much force.

25th September 2013, 16:27	#16
zoomer Newbie Rover 75 sallon Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Essex Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ok ok. Brute force. Pulls straight out. No angle or twist. Good.

25th September 2013, 18:18	#17
zoomer Newbie Rover 75 sallon Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Essex Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I would have to call this repair a complete success. As said 20 min job if you have the correct tools and experience (I had neither) seems good now. I can once again peep my hooter and turn radio 4 up without the annoyance of having to move my hand all the way to the radio. Thanks to okenora and trophy blue tourer (great step by step guidence and spot on (remember them)) and thanks to mike for the post about steering wheel removal and finally, to my family and fans. Thanks all . Mot tomorrow!