Something wrong on idle after huge service... - Page 2

220316 · 5th February 2015, 07:56

Just an update for everyone:

I spoke to the mechanic that conducted all of the works recently and he said I need to be running 98RON fuel, whereas I had been putting 95 in.
He said it's likely to be a fuel filter that needs replacing (which was not done during the recent service).
So as the current tank empties out I will have to keep my fingers and toes crossed that nothing develops. Once I fill her up with a tank of 98 and drive around for a bit I guess I will find out if it was the filter/fuel or not.

Avora · 5th February 2015, 08:03

I run my V6 on 95 RON, the engine has a knock sensor and can adapt to 95 or 98. It wouldn't miss fire.

If it were the fuel filter the engine wouldn't start running fine after 10 minutes.

220316 · 5th February 2015, 08:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avora

I run my V6 on 95 RON, the engine has a knock sensor and can adapt to 95 or 98. It wouldn't miss fire.

If it were the fuel filter the engine wouldn't start running fine after 10 minutes.

Hmmm, I will still do as the mechanic has told me for now unless the issue becomes more apparent.

Just thought I'd mention also that it happened this morning on my way to work, but did not happen on my way home some 5 hours later.

T-Cut · 5th February 2015, 17:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAY441

He said it's likely to be a fuel filter that needs replacing

I'd suggest it's your mechanic that needs replacing. He's taking you for a ride and you've already said you'll pay.

TC

Avulon · 5th February 2015, 18:16

Well I'd place a couple of bets (to get it right on the spread as it were). In order:
Loose/defective plug or ign wiring.
minor air leak on manifold.

Either would probably disappear when the engine is at full running temperature.

clf · 5th February 2015, 18:52

my suggestion, would also be an intake issue. perhaps when refitting the manifold, the gasket was nipped,. once engine up to temp, the metal expands just enough to compensate

220316 · 6th February 2015, 06:55

Thanks for your replies guys.

As for whether or not my mechanic is legitimate, I honestly am leaning towards the legitimate side. They're the only MG specific mechanic in what appears to be the entire state that I can find.

In regards to the issue being gone once at running temperature... I recall turning the car on and noticed the temperature gauge sitting one exactly half (what I would consider to be operating temperature). The car hadn't been driven for about 30 minutes, but the problem was apparent at the time.
This might rule a few things out?

SD1too · 6th February 2015, 07:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAY441

I spoke to the mechanic that conducted all of the works recently and he said I need to be running 98RON fuel, whereas I had been putting 95 in.

Jeremy,

Here's a fact for you from MG Rover's official workshop manual for dealers (RAVE):

"Fuel system - KV6
Fuel specification: EN228 95 RON unleaded

Different octane ratings (98 RON) may be defined nationally: 90 - 98 RON if re-tuned via Testbook programme. Leaded specifications will be available in certain markets."

Now, it's up to you who you choose to believe: your mechanic or MG Rover. If your mechanic is "legitimate" and "MG specific" as you say, then he will have Testbook, so ask him to use it to check that the fuel specification is still set to 95 RON. I am in no doubt that it will be, in which case you do not need to use different fuel.

Quote:

.. noticed the temperature gauge sitting one exactly half (what I would consider to be operating temperature).

Jeremy; may I recommend that you read the many and frequent posts on this forum about the temperature gauge. The half-way position is actually virtually meaningless. I fear that you are likely to make a lot of mistakes in connection with the diagnosis of your problem because there is clearly a lot you don't know about your engine. My colleagues in the last four replies are giving you good advice which you would be wise to take seriously.

Simon

220316 · 7th February 2015, 04:46

Thank-you for your advice Simon.

Another thing to note, I have checked the coolant each morning since the trouble has started, just as a precaution. The levels appear to be the same, however today I noticed some has managed to leak. The picture below should suffice.
Could this be related? Did I maybe not secure the cap correctly the last time I applied it?

There appears to be a bit of spray in the vicinity also.

Jordan Apex · 7th February 2015, 06:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAY441

Thank-you for your advice Simon.

Another thing to note, I have checked the coolant each morning since the trouble has started, just as a precaution. The levels appear to be the same, however today I noticed some has managed to leak. The picture below should suffice.
Could this be related? Did I maybe not secure the cap correctly the last time I applied it?

There appears to be a bit of spray in the vicinity also.

Looks like the coolant cap on ring has failed, easy enough to replace, viton ones were available last I checked!

5th February 2015, 08:03	#12
Avora Loves to post MG ZT-T 190 Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Penrith Posts: 441 Thanks: 89 Thanked 69 Times in 56 Posts	I run my V6 on 95 RON, the engine has a knock sensor and can adapt to 95 or 98. It wouldn't miss fire. If it were the fuel filter the engine wouldn't start running fine after 10 minutes. __________________ ZT-T 190

5th February 2015, 18:16	#15
Avulon This is my second home 1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tanelorn Posts: 4,830 Thanks: 956 Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts	Well I'd place a couple of bets (to get it right on the spread as it were). In order: Loose/defective plug or ign wiring. minor air leak on manifold. Either would probably disappear when the engine is at full running temperature. __________________ Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button

5th February 2015, 18:52	#16
clf This is my second home MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: carrick Posts: 7,859 Thanks: 3,494 Thanked 2,657 Times in 1,973 Posts	my suggestion, would also be an intake issue. perhaps when refitting the manifold, the gasket was nipped,. once engine up to temp, the metal expands just enough to compensate __________________ It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver!

5th February 2015, 07:56	#11
220316 Regular poster Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 47 Thanks: 11 Thanked 8 Times in 3 Posts	Just an update for everyone: I spoke to the mechanic that conducted all of the works recently and he said I need to be running 98RON fuel, whereas I had been putting 95 in. He said it's likely to be a fuel filter that needs replacing (which was not done during the recent service). So as the current tank empties out I will have to keep my fingers and toes crossed that nothing develops. Once I fill her up with a tank of 98 and drive around for a bit I guess I will find out if it was the filter/fuel or not.

6th February 2015, 06:55	#17
220316 Regular poster Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 47 Thanks: 11 Thanked 8 Times in 3 Posts	Thanks for your replies guys. As for whether or not my mechanic is legitimate, I honestly am leaning towards the legitimate side. They're the only MG specific mechanic in what appears to be the entire state that I can find. In regards to the issue being gone once at running temperature... I recall turning the car on and noticed the temperature gauge sitting one exactly half (what I would consider to be operating temperature). The car hadn't been driven for about 30 minutes, but the problem was apparent at the time. This might rule a few things out?

7th February 2015, 04:46	#19
220316 Regular poster Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 47 Thanks: 11 Thanked 8 Times in 3 Posts	Thank-you for your advice Simon. Another thing to note, I have checked the coolant each morning since the trouble has started, just as a precaution. The levels appear to be the same, however today I noticed some has managed to leak. The picture below should suffice. Could this be related? Did I maybe not secure the cap correctly the last time I applied it? There appears to be a bit of spray in the vicinity also.