Diesel tourer not starting

[Ravinder]

Thanks. It had a new battery fitted as well.
I think the mechanic said with easy start it would fire up briefly before dying again. He said it's almost certainly fuel related.

[bigblue75]

Can you give more details of what the mechanic has tried, what diagnostic equipment is available / being used and the values that have been given for fuel pressures, battery readings, relevant sensors, etc.
I'm sure someone on here will be able to help, good luck.

[Arctic]

I presume leak back test has been taken and ruled out, also has the HPFP regulator been checked, the O-rings changed out parts only about £5.50p

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334882435145

Drop me a PM if a HPFP is needed, i have one in the shed which has had the O-rings kit fitted including the regulator.

[Number 6]

You could also try the Fuel Pressure sensor on the back of the HP pump..When my car refused to start one day I traced it to this part.. When i removed it one of the internal seals had split... Replaced the seal and all was fine.








You beat me to again Steve

[Mike Noc]

Just to help avoid you buying the wrong part, the HP fuel pressure sensor sits on the end of the common rail and the regulator sits on the back of the HP fuel pump.

[bigblue75]

Any updates on this?
Fingers crossed for a successful resolution....

[CivilSteve]

If you've tried to start the car with a low battery it might be the ECU and EWS out of sync.

The key will still disable the immobiliser so it'll crank but the ECU will refuse to let the car start.

You might get lucky and be able to re-sync with TOAF, although my experience with this is the car will fall back out of sync after switching it off.

A T4 might do a better job of this instead if you can get access.

Or I can set the ECU to be unlocked so it won't be an issue. Whichever is best for you really.

If you have a code reader, do you get any codes?

[SteveThackery]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Connect the (red) booster cable between the positive terminals (+) of both batteries.

If you are going to do an emergency start, (jump) it then be sure to have the leads correctly so you do not have any spikes, on the diesel black booster cable from the (-) negative terminal of the donor battery/car, to a good earth point on the non starting car, ie an engine mount, or other unpainted surface, at least 20" away from the battery, make sure the cables are away from moving parts.

Start the donor car and allow to idle for a few minutes, then try the dead car do not crank for more than 15 seconds at a given time, allowing a least 5 minutes between starts.

Once you get the both cars running alloy them to idle together for a few minutes before switching off the donor car, and disconnect the cables from that car first, make sure the cables do not touch each other, good luck.

You know what? I've done a few jump starts in my time without observing any of the above rules and procedures, and it's worked perfectly every time. Isn't that strange.

[Arctic]

Hi Steve.
Not strange, you just haven't pulled the trigger enough times yet while playing Russian roulette, it will get you in the end, maybe do your self on your own car, but please don't do it on someone else's unless you are prepared to take the responsibility of correcting any spike that happens, and it can believe me.

[SteveThackery]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Steve.
Not strange, you just haven't pulled the trigger enough times yet while playing Russian roulette, it will get you in the end, maybe do your self on your own car, but please don't do it on someone else's unless you are prepared to take the responsibility of correcting any spike that happens, and it can believe me.

Can you explain why each of those rules is necessary?

1/ -ve lead must be attached 20" away from the battery. Why?

2/ Allow at least 5 minutes between starts. Why?

3/ Idle together for a few minutes. Why?

Are these rules that you have arrived at yourself through "common sense", or are they from a text book somewhere?