2.0 v6 dohc ~ non runner purchase, breather pipes melted, and lots of other problems

[Greeners]

Originally Posted by timandsam

hey david...


I have not checked this yet... as i was told from essex motor factors the fuel filter forms part of the tank and therefore can't be changed....
but on your question i got out the good old hynes manual...

after after reading hynes, i'm told its located next to the battery... so i will have a look when i next get an hour or so outside on her....
what am i looking for, dirty filter, possible blocked pipes, airlock, fuel pump failure, ???


anyway... other problems more pressing as already started. (and all the bits laying around is starting to scare the wife..... being we just sold her current car... doh.)

Still trying to replace the inner cam cover...
just a shame i need to remove the cam pulley to do so,
(looks like the cam cover dropped a cm or so, casuing the belt to rub on casing and wear through....

anyone got a good idea where to source a cam cover from....
breakers years not willing to remove cam pulley due to alingment and belt removal..

and xparts want £80 for a bit of plastic....????
one breaker yead NSEC in hockley esex agreed i could take it off myself anf providing a put engine back togethour again i can buy it for a £10....
but finding the time to dismantle their engine and rebuild before mine own... is impossible.

and still looking for that cam tool, have you got an ideas which members may have the tool i could borrow....?

The 75 has a saddle tank. In one side is the fuel pump, in the other is the fuel filter. The most common problem with the petrol engined 75 ZT's is the fuel filter seperates.

There's plenty written about it, just have a search.

Having said that, if the top of the engine has got that hot, it's probably cooked the complete engine.

Post some photos up.....

[timandsam]

Originally Posted by kaiser

It seems everybody is skirting around the problem. So let me be kind and put you out of your misery.
If the engine has been so hot, that you plastic bits have melted all around, the engine is scrap, don't waste time on it, get another.
Your aluminium will have become soft, the liners will have moved, the rings will have softened, the gaskets are most likely gone and there could be much more.
In other words, had it been a horse, it would have been shot.
So don't get your hopes up, and don't spend your money on it either.

thanks for this...
but all seems to be really positive so far...
the breather hose looks they were blocked before they started to melt...
the melting has come from the metal cam cover itself when the broken breather pipes were resting on the cam cover...

the pipes are still one unit... just slightly melted...
the cam cover is another victim from the oil thats dripped down from the broken breather pipes, causing the cam cover to slide a cm down, whch has casued no major damage to either the belt or the any other items...

all the plugs are super clean and just how you would expect... bar one which could be caused on oil in the inlet manifold...
not had a chance to run a compression test yet,
but she truns over freely.

she did have a collant leak, but this seem to be coming from water pump, i will of-course also check the termosat housing.

so i may have blind faith i think this can all be explained in a series of events:

1. coolant leak from water pump
2. oil brether melts (slightly)
3. hot oil leaks from cam cover which hit the plastic cam cover housing(approx 1L of oil)
4. plastic housing bolt holes get oilly and starts to lose riggidness moves cm down
5. plastic housing rubs on belt... (no damage caused)

engine been fully stripped down for belt change now... so good visbility on engine external


so i need to replace water pump,
service repalce thermosat...
rebuild engine, add coolant, service fuel filter,
normal service stuff and away we go?


we should run a sweep stake?

[Mac_rouser]

good luck Tim, since the engine turns over freely, presumably on the key and starter motor, and if by freely you mean no obvious sticking points with the pistons, my guess is there may not be any problems caused by overheating to the pistons engine block etc.
Also what is encouraging is the state of the oil and water, since from what you say they appear normal.
That said, I would still check the head for mis-alignment (warping) and of course head gasket just in case the overheating resulted in a HG failure, in doing so if removing the head you would need a new HG anyway.
Water pump, thermostat and housing, is a must do check.
Keep your north (faith) and go for it, checks cost nowt, so be thorough, at least then you may get to a point of definite reasons for the non runner and you can decide to rebuild or not

[timandsam]

Originally Posted by Mac_rouser

good luck Tim, since the engine turns over freely, presumably on the key and starter motor, and if by freely you mean no obvious sticking points with the pistons, my guess is there may not be any problems caused by overheating to the pistons engine block etc.
Also what is encouraging is the state of the oil and water, since from what you say they appear normal.
That said, I would still check the head for mis-alignment (warping) and of course head gasket just in case the overheating resulted in a HG failure, in doing so if removing the head you would need a new HG anyway.
Water pump, thermostat and housing, is a must do check.
Keep your north (faith) and go for it, checks cost nowt, so be thorough, at least then you may get to a point of definite reasons for the non runner and you can decide to rebuild or not

thanks for this mac...

your comments support my positive faith too, surly must be break for good karma' practice...

i will let you know how we get on...

any ideas on the cam tool front?
I need to borrow or rent the tool as it costs £280+ off ebay... och..

[timandsam]

hi all.

a furter update on the car...

where was the collant leak? ~ defo thermostat housing. need to change Tuesday.
how and why breather metled pipe?. ~ jut the 1 breather hose... all others are fine, seems to have been blocked and just melted under the pressure...


so all starting to look a good deal better...

so far changed the timng belt and water pump/... not easy jobs..
and defo not for the faint hearted.
changed the normal ervice bits, oil filter, plugs etc etc.

still got the non starting problem...

compression test shows no faults...
but still no spark...

I have checked the fuses and all seems fine, the relay click correctly...

could it be the cam and or crack sensors?

[Greeners]

Originally Posted by Greeners

Have you checked the fuel filter yet ?

Have you ....????

[timandsam]

Originally Posted by Greeners

Have you ....????

hi.

I'm trying to leave that till last...
the tank is 3/4 full and i cant store all the drained off fuel.

is it possible to plug the pipe?

[Greeners]

Originally Posted by timandsam

hi.

I'm trying to leave that till last...
the tank is 3/4 full and i cant store all the drained off fuel.

is it possible to plug the pipe?

Sorry, but until you've made this basic check, you really are peeing in the wind.

You can safely (with suitable precautions of dealing with petrol) pop the fuel filter out and check that it hasn't seperated. About 30 - 40 minutes work. There's even a "how to here " (somewhere) that details it.

This (next to drowned ECU's) is probably the biggest failure of 75's not too run.....

[timandsam]

Originally Posted by Greeners

Sorry, but until you've made this basic check, you really are peeing in the wind.

You can safely (with suitable precautions of dealing with petrol) pop the fuel filter out and check that it hasn't seperated. About 30 - 40 minutes work. There's even a "how to here " (somewhere) that details it.

This (next to drowned ECU's) is probably the biggest failure of 75's not too run.....

the ecu is dry..
the suroundin area isnt blocked and can drain freely.

i can smell petrol bu dont have a spark...

the fuel filter wouldnt cause the no spark would it?
surely must be a sensor?

[chris75]

Originally Posted by timandsam

hi all.

so all starting to look a good deal better...

so far changed the timng belt and water pump/... not easy jobs..
and defo not for the faint hearted.
changed the normal ervice bits, oil filter, plugs etc etc.

Did you change the cam belt without the locking kit in the end ?
I am guessing you just replaced the front belt and left the rear ones alone this time ? I am thinking of doing the belts on mine and can't find a kit to hire , so am interested in the problems when doing without the kit as per Haynes manual !