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18th May 2014, 08:56 | #1 | ||
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
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22nd May 2014, 20:58 | #2 | |
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22nd May 2014, 21:03 | #3 | |
Posted a thing or two
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Discussion for the benefit of others??? I'm new to this forum, but I did not find the above discussion helpfully, entertaining maybe, but decidedly unhelpful. The problem is that the op did not get a helpfull answer to the question. I'm no expert, but I do have an understanding of electronics, and two important points have not been mentioned. 1: you should attempt to start a modern car with a low battery, in doing so you run the risk of scrambling the engine management computer by producing voltages that it simply does not understand. 2: the actual question, I don't believe such a device would work, it's use will be limited at best. if the output voltage is 12v it will do harm in itself, but see 1 above. On the other hand if the output is 18v as suggested, that is the maximum design voltage for many electronic devices. Perhaps the resistance of any connections might ensure the full18v would not reach the processors, but you should consider this before using the device Les |
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22nd May 2014, 21:04 | #4 | |
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22nd May 2014, 22:54 | #5 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
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No, he hasn't. He hasn't tried it because it's output voltage is 0v! If the output voltage of the 'Simple Start' is approximately 12v, it won't work; Harry has shown you that with today's experiment. If the output voltage is between 13.5 and 14.5 it will behave similarly to an alternator but with a much reduced ability to provide current (it has only 6Ah available). It's therefore far from certain that enough charge would be transferred to drive a starter motor. If the output voltage is 18v I would not endorse it as 'safe' since this level is much higher than that which could be reasonably expected to be found in a vehicle's circuits. I would not want to risk damage to electronic components inside ECUs (although others might). So Vinnie & Herman, you need to save your jubilations until after the proper tests have been carried out. That is the scientific way to do it. Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. Last edited by SD1too; 22nd May 2014 at 22:56.. |
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23rd May 2014, 07:46 | #6 | |
I really should get out more.......
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I know it works, that hasn't ever been my question. My original question was; is it safe to use? Because I don't wanna damage the intricate electronics on the 75. This question hasn't been answerable, because I haven't been able to confirm the output voltage. Let me just repeat something I have said a couple of times before: This device does not restore the full battery! It will give your battery just enough power to turn over the engine a few times, but than it will be gone again. The manual also says to turn off all the systems in the car (because those will drain the battery as fast as this device can 'charge' it. When the car battery hasn't got enough power to turn over the engine, this device (when connected for a good 10 to 15 minutes), will give the battery a little bit power. Just enough to turn over the engine. I had to use the device in my previous (much smaller) car. And it worked. But it's no miracle cure. And like Harry said in post #72, you shouldn't use it in a life threatening situation.
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23rd May 2014, 08:41 | #7 | ||||
Doesn't do things by halves
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Your other conclusions will mislead others, so I cannot accept them without these changes: Quote:
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The 'Simple Start', for all these reasons, is not a reliable method of replenishing a battery which fails to turn a starter motor. It is obviously preferable to maintain your vehicle battery in good condition in the first place (which takes the same effort as keeping the 'Simple Start' serviceable). Sales of products such as this rely on generating fear that the person will be stranded by a flat battery, then promising a solution which the product cannot possibly deliver with certainty. It's rather like having an insurance policy with a few cleverly hidden exclusion clauses, and we all know about those, don't we? Simon
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22nd May 2014, 21:32 | #8 | |
This is my second home
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The output volts to charge the main battery, is almost certainly 18v, but remember - once plugged into the car, its voltage will be pulled down to match the voltage of the cars own much bigger battery. The one slight concern I would have is that the cars battery might be o/c, or disconnected. I suspect the resistance of the lead and the voltage drop would prevent any over voltage damage. There again, car electronics are made to pretty robust standards - I would expect no electronics damage below say 20v.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. Last edited by HarryM1BYT; 22nd May 2014 at 21:34.. |
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23rd May 2014, 09:07 | #9 |
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Thank you Simon I think that is pretty close to what I tried to say. Unfortunately I missed a couple of words in my last post, so I will repeat; somewhere on this forum I found a warning NOT to try to start your car with a low battery, because you can easily confuse the immobiliser. Makes sense, because I know from experience that before the starter motor ceases to crank, the computer starts to chatter in utter confusion. My concern is that the device output is so low that it is unlikely to charge the battery sufficiently to remove that risk. Admittedly after employing the device for half an hour or so you might one brief shot at starting the engine, but then if you switch everything off and leave the car for a similar period, that too might work.
I have only had my 260 for one month, but I think I might just sell it and go back to the Triumph forums, they are a much more friendly bunch Les |
23rd May 2014, 11:20 | #10 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
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It's never very pleasant to see disagreements, particularly when emotions run high as in this thread. As well as batteries, strong opinions are also held about tyres, engine oil and fuel consumption! Fortunately, this isn't the norm at the 75 and ZT Club. The meetings are indeed friendly affairs where members are very generous with their time (and spare parts) to help out others in need. Our technical help is second to none (battery charging excepted you'll probably say ), and many solutions have been devised for the common problems. But what I like particularly about our forum is that a new member doesn't have to part with any money in order to find out what's on offer. We hope everyone will stay, because differing views and debate are how problems are eventually solved for the benefit of all. All the best Les. Simon
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