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30th November 2012, 18:27 | #21 |
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You next need to remove the motor. Either to try the bush replacement or to fit another one. You need a later 2-speed or one of Jules' Kenlowe kits.
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30th November 2012, 19:19 | #22 |
Doesn't do things by halves
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To find out, remove the motor end cap. It's held on by some fairly stout twisted lugs. Don't grip the motor body too tightly in the vice as the permanent magnets are composite types and only glued in place. If you find one or two worn out brushes then yes, you can repair it cheaply. You'll find information and photographs if you search the forum, or you can post your own pictures and ask questions!
Simon.
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30th November 2012, 19:48 | #23 |
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im doing mine tomorrow, got the brushes, 12 quid on ebay, 2 quid for the brushes and 10 pound to post them!!! bit of a con really....
you could test the faster fan speed if you let the engine get to 111 when the fast speed cuts in |
30th November 2012, 20:31 | #24 | |
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Quote:
With it being a diesel i dont it will go that high
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30th November 2012, 20:39 | #25 |
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30th November 2012, 20:40 | #26 |
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Just a couple of points to note gents:
At the position you are at with the fan in the picture, there are two 8 or 10mm bolts (seen both) halfway down the side of the fan housing (one either side) the diesel has a further two bolts to the lower edge, petrol ones possibly have just two clips to the underside of the frame ( sometimes they are just not there). Once these are removed you can lift the shroud and pull it forward over and off the PASSENGERSIDE upright peg at the top. This will allow the shroud to swing away enough to get your hand in between the shroud and the rad. You will need a GOOD QUALITY torx 25 bit. you hopefully will be able to undo the three torx bolts that secure the motor to the shroud, taking care not to damage the rad with your hand. The motor pulls forward and the relay box, wiring and plugs follow through the hole in the shroud. If these three bolts cannot be removed you will need to cut the shroud around the aircon pipes to remove the shroud completely from the car. As said be very careful with the body of the fan as the magnets will break at the slightest shock or distortion of the housing. TIP: Mark the position of the end cap on the motor housing before you remove it, they only fit on one way Remove end cap to reveal the upperside of the brush housing (they are on the underneath side). The whole electrical carrier just pulls off, you will see the 4 brushes and the springs behind them. i found it far easier to solder the brush wires together new to old than try to remove the original brushes from their fixing points But the choice is yours. You need three hands to put the brushes back into the guides and over the armature but it is doable Last thing, don't try to do this with a mickey mouse soldering iron, you need to get some serious heat on the brush wires for a good joint Good luck with it
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Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident Last edited by stocktake; 30th November 2012 at 21:37.. |
30th November 2012, 20:54 | #27 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Simon.
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30th November 2012, 20:59 | #28 |
Posted a thing or two
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I found the cap from a can of WD40 did the job as if it was designed for it
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Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra. Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath. At night the ice-weasels come... http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5331/6...77671f80_n.jpg Last edited by Unclefista; 30th November 2012 at 23:52.. |
30th November 2012, 21:01 | #29 |
Doesn't do things by halves
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Thanks Tony, I think you're right. A WD40 cap sounds very familiar.
Simon.
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30th November 2012, 21:35 | #30 |
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I used a socket in the early days, got the knack of it now
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