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26th June 2016, 02:41 | #21 |
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Ok,
So I got everything apart, but I'm the idiot for not realising I have to cut the bottom of the cowling as well around the lower pipe. I hope you guys don't think this is too funny, but I actually have problems with my dexterity and coordination. Anyway, finally managed to get it all off, now I need to work out how to test the fan, any clues for testing or do I make the big assumption that it's definitely the brushes. BTW, if I haven't thanked everyone for their assistance yet, I am very grateful for your help. Last edited by Sledge; 26th June 2016 at 07:21.. |
26th June 2016, 09:33 | #22 | ||
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No one thinks it is funny, we all work differently I know you are 12hrs in front of us so help maybe sporadic at times, but I am usually awake in the UK up until at least 03.30 am so you can look out for any posts I make then. With the fan off and on a bench and turned over I would first take of the conduit round the wiring, check all wiring leading from the fan motor to the control box, from the control box to the end of the black plugs which connect to the main loom. Please inform us that you have the four wires coming from the fan motor so we know that you have the four wire 3 speed fan. I will later post some photo's for you so you can remove the motor from the cowling and also how to take the lid of the motor it's self to check the brushes and it's board.
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26th June 2016, 12:46 | #23 |
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Thanks again for your kindness and advice.
(Yep way past midnight here) I can confirm that, sadly, I have the 3 speed job. Now off to bed. |
27th June 2016, 00:40 | #24 | |
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As above in my post check the wiring in the conduit now you have the fan off the car. 1 From the motor to the control box for any corrosion or breaks in the wiring. 2 Then from control box to the plugs on the end of the loom. 3 Check all joints in the wiring. 4 If no corrosion or damage then your next step would be to check the relays in the control box, you will need a multi meter for this I am sure Simon can talk you through it as he is red hot on that part of the fan. 5 If all those turn out ok then it is opening the motor which I can also add pics if needed Arctic.
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28th June 2016, 08:23 | #25 |
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Thanks once again,
I've parked the task for the next few days, have to head out for a bit. I will certainly get back to you guys with my findings, Rod |
29th June 2016, 03:53 | #26 |
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Ok,
I have physically checked the wiring, looks ok, I have pulled the relay box open, what should I be testing across the terminals? Also, I guess it would be handy now if you guys can show me any pics or things to look for if I actually pull the fan motor out. Thanks in advance. |
29th June 2016, 06:56 | #27 | |
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Quote:
you're looking for 12v on the fat red wire when the engine is running and the demist button pressed. Caution: make sure that the fan is securely tethered just in case it does decide to run. If you do find 12 v on the red wire and the motor does not respond, the next step is to open the motor casing to look for a worn brush. Simon
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29th June 2016, 07:24 | #28 |
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Good stuff,
I will set up a rig to keep the fan secure. If I pull the motor casing, is it very obvious to identify that the brush is worn? |
29th June 2016, 09:02 | #29 |
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Yes it is. The best thing to do Rod is to search Arctic's posts for his excellent pictorial guide on the partial dismantling of the motor. There are four brushes and you'll see them arranged every 90° around the commutator. They're inserted into a metal sleeve together with a spring to maintain good contact with the commutator. As you slide each brush out of its sleeve its length will be obvious.
Buy replacements only from ECP in Croydon, U.K., not e-bay. Simon
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9th July 2016, 02:17 | #30 |
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Hi Rod.
Not forgot your thread, or ignoring your PM but been quite busy, I have put together a few photo's for you which will take you through how to open the motor. Once opened it should be clear which brushes have worn down With motor fan and blade on a work surface of your choice Fig 1. 1 You will need to straighten up the holding lug/tags. Fig 2/3 2 3 This is best undertaken using some mole grips Fig 4 4 Squash the tags / lugs Fig 5 5 With the holding lugs straightened up and squashed together use the grips now force the lid and the lug together Fig 6 6/7 7 Continue this method all round the lid until the fan lid will lift free from the motor Fig 8/9 8 9 With the lid of first inspect the wires and the soldering coming into the plate Fig 10 10 Now clean of the plate it's self with a soft brush Fig 11 11 That will give you chance to check all the tracks before lifting the plate free to inspect the brushes etc. With an all marker pen mark the area on the motor casing where the wires enter this will help later when your re-fit the plate if you are able to add new brushes. Fig 12/13 12 13 I now use a 23mm socket over the centre of the commutator before I lift the plate of this keeps the brushes in place, it also helps to stop the springs from flying out Fig 14/15 14 15 With the 23mm socket in place tease of the plate using a small bladed screw driver. Fig 16 16 Do this round the edge of the plate carefully Fig 17 17 The plate should now be free to remove Fig 18/19 18 19 As you lift the plate turn it upside down, things should now start to become clear Fig 20 20 You can see how the 23mm socket keeps the brushes in place while you remove the plate Fig 21 21 Set the plate down on the work surface you can inspect it shortly Fig 22 22 I then proceed to check the commutator and it's wiring Fig 23/24 23 24 Once more a bit more cleaning with the soft brush wear a mask while doing this because of the fine dust Fig 25 25 once you have brushed it clean turn it upside down and brush once again, having did that return it to the work surface and check the magnets there are four, check for cracks or if they are loose Fig 26 26 Satisfied the magnets are in good order use some emery cloth to clean the commutator Fig 27/28 27 28 With that out of the way you can now turn your attention to the brushes slowly remove the 23mm socket to reveal the state of the brushes Fig 29 29 Turn over the plate and all is revealed Fig 30 30 From here on you will decide how many if not all the brushes need replacing, usually best to replace all Fig 31 31 Cut off each brush close the end of the copper wire thread Fig 32/33 32 33 Continue this on each one or as many as you feel need to be replaced, once that have been cut off clean again with a soft brush. Fig 34 34 Solder on the new brushes once this as been done you are ready to fit the plate back onto the motor. Replacing the lid will continue tomorrow night
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
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