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Old 9th November 2015, 14:02   #31
awvc1
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ok cheers for that I will look at it - i just got a bulk pack of 12 noiskiller 4mm sheets for 40 quid which I thought was pretty damn good so I will go to town

outer door skin in all the accessible parts
inner face of the door skin, below the soundproofing foam - total coverage
under or over the mdf rings though with dynamat/noisekiller?

as far as water proofing goes, I will have a moisture guard foam sheet I'm putting in below the ring so the speaker is protected by that. I will play by ear how well those rings fit and what level of bodging I need I guess - thanks for the warning!
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Old 9th November 2015, 16:24   #32
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that's the stuff like Moisture Guard for under the ring round the back of the speaker.

outer door skin - 50% coverage with NoiseKiller will be fine, no need to do more. Mount the speakers directly on the rings. Use some of the NoiseKiller to build up the bottom of the rings to fill the gap (which you'll see straightaway).

While you're in the doors - sand or brush the bottom few inches of outer skin, vacuum out any debris and think about a quick splash around with Hammerite / similar ?

I managed to mount my tweeters on the flange to the top of the ring - this gives a great point-source sound which depending on your set-up will sound superior & more together than the pillar position. Having said that, I might be forced to put them back in the pillars because I can't get my cross-overs to sit properly and they might have to go by the ring!

Put all amp power to the front, let H/U run the rear as fill and if you've got co-axials in the back, snip off the little wires to the central tweeter so the sound rolls off - you don't want distracting highs from the back doors.
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Old 9th November 2015, 16:32   #33
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Ok thanks for the tips. Regarding the noisekiller, what sort of coverage should I aim for on the inner door skin? Total?

How about the inner face of the door card? Any there?
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Old 9th November 2015, 16:53   #34
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Inner Door Skin - personal choice really for a fairly minimal gain. Plus you have to watch the thickness or the doorcard might not sit/fit properly.

At least 80% of the improvement will be from the outer skin & mdf rings..... anything more brings only diminishing returns.

If you cover the big hole - stick some noisekiller on whatever you use.
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Old 10th November 2015, 14:09   #35
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thank you - has any one got any good pics of a stripped down door so I can see where to plan to put in the noise killer sheets on the outer panel? I'm obviously wary of messing up the window or lock travel!
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Old 11th November 2015, 14:37   #36
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ok been a busy bee today and fitted the rear HK door speakers and soundproofed.

here is what I did, and I'd appreciate any comments on if I did it right, and if that will be ok?

hk door tweeter fitted:



noisekiller 4mm on the outer door:



skinz sound diffuser behind where the speaker will be:



blocked up the door holes with the skinz equivalent of noisekiller - its 2mm:





punctured the door foam so speakers can vent into the door properly:



There is moisture guard foam put under the rings, and all screwed back in, foam making a nice seal.

All sounds a bit richer - now all I have to do is the front ones. Also the plus side is the car sounds more solid when the doors close
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Old 11th November 2015, 15:28   #37
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Looks like a nice decent job so far..... plenty good enough for the rear
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Old 11th November 2015, 16:07   #38
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thanks. The only difference I will be making on my approach to the front is to use mdf rings - will that be sufficient do you think?
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Old 12th November 2015, 08:15   #39
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ok my report back on the mdf rings.

Don't fit snug particularly snug with the door at the bottom, and the holes on the casing of the harmon kardon (and stock) speaker steel frame for mounting fall outside the diameter of the ring, rendering a simple screwing on impossible.

I can't see a simple way to mount these today with the materials I have, so I am abandoning these pieces of junk. Coupled with a seller who lies, I'd say avoid these. Sadly, I'm going back to the plastic ones for now as I can't do anything with these. Perhaps some modelling clay or something might work better, but I don't have any for now. Maybe one day in the future, other than that, its 20 quid down the drain as far as I'm concerned.

Oh well, we live and learn.
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Inline 'stat
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upgraded BM54 + BT Aux-in
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Spyhole +Jules plenum shield
PPD - badges,rear plinth, carpeted heater panels, anchor bolts, reflectors
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Old 12th November 2015, 09:54   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awvc1 View Post
ok my report back on the mdf rings.

Don't fit snug particularly snug with the door at the bottom, and the holes on the casing of the harmon kardon (and stock) speaker steel frame for mounting fall outside the diameter of the ring, rendering a simple screwing on impossible.

I can't see a simple way to mount these today with the materials I have, so I am abandoning these pieces of junk. Coupled with a seller who lies, I'd say avoid these. Sadly, I'm going back to the plastic ones for now as I can't do anything with these. Perhaps some modelling clay or something might work better, but I don't have any for now. Maybe one day in the future, other than that, its 20 quid down the drain as far as I'm concerned.

Oh well, we live and learn.
The problem is the HK speakers don't have standard mountings.
If you fit aftermarket replacement speakers to the plastic mounts you have to drill holes for them.
A standard set of 165/170mm speakers will fit them without any problems.
Going to guess they are sold/made for those who are replacing oem rather than just using them as alternative mounts for the factory fit speakers!

I know that doesn't help you in your situation unfortunately.
If you decide not to use them I'll buy them off you and keep them for stock
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