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Old 30th November 2012, 23:39   #31
Arctic
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Originally Posted by smoogle View Post
Thanks for the reply.
I have managed to get the blades on without too much trouble, but thanks for the tip.. it is a 15mm nut!

Fan doesn't work at all though. Nothing on Demist, nothing with full A/C on either.
As above you can check out and replace the brushes once the fan is off the motor, either the way Dave (Stocktake) suggests or if you can not get to grips with some or one of the torx cut the cowling and take it off.

All you need to get the lid of the motor is a good pair of mole grips and Bob is not or uncle or maybe he is once the lid is off all will be revealed low and medium usualy gone, join the nano library there is over 4000 detailed pics of the R75 and MGZT like these below

Note the lugs which will need bending straight so the lid will come off
1

Control box of the M47 diesel
2

Use those mole grips to straighten the lugs upright
3

4

5

once all upright you can now close the gap by squeezing the end of the lugs together.
6

When you have done all of them you can then squash the lid and lug tops together which will lift the lid nicely
7

8

9

Now lift the lid
10

Phase two now can begin glad to see someof you are still on the thread and awake Arctic.



With the lid off use a all mark pen and make comparision marks on the brush holder and motor body so you know how it fits back together even though it will only go on one way it makes it easier
11

I use a 23 socket before lifting the brush holder as its a perfect fit bit you can use a WD40 lid as suggested earlier in the thread.
12

Once detached you will then start to see the state of the game
13

Of motor and brush condition
14

On this one you can see the scorched mark
15

Now flipped over with the socket removed you can see that all the brushes have quite a lot of meat left on them this fan had burnt out hopefully yours is not
16

17

Here you can see where the heat as built up
18

close up of the damage
19

20

Snapped wire which was the trouble on this motor yours maybe only the brushes worn down and can be changed
21

22

In turn burnt out the motor its self
23

24

I know you want to get to the part where you replace the brushes
25.

Will down load them now for you dont for get this is a M47 Diesel fan motor but all are more or less the same inside.
26
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Last edited by Arctic; 1st December 2012 at 00:06..
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Old 30th November 2012, 23:47   #32
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Thanks Arctic. That is very helpfull!
I was considering getting a universal fan & motor and wiring that in if my one is knackered as I have seen other members have done so.
I will have to start looking for one if my board is cracked or broken.
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Old 1st December 2012, 00:10   #33
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Thanks Arctic. That is very helpfull!
I was considering getting a universal fan & motor and wiring that in if my one is knackered as I have seen other members have done so.
I will have to start looking for one if my board is cracked or broken.
Hi Martin.
I will load up the rest of the brush pics in a jiffy once you have checked yours you will know if only the brushes need changing if not proberly best to go for a two speed two wire with gold resistor and you may not have to look to far but check first as its only £12 if brushes.
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Old 1st December 2012, 00:37   #34
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Default Fan Brushes

To replace the brushes you will need a good soldering iron on this one i used the blocks from an house hold chock block and soldered the ends later.

Top off as stated in the thread above.
1

Two of the brushes are worn down low speed and medium speed
2

3

Replace them with new or if you have good used ones they will do and you will know that they are all the same hardness etc.
4

Cut the worn brushes off close to the top of the copper wire as you can giving you more wire to solder on to or use the bolcks as i did first.
5

6

Note the electric blocks cut out of the platci household wire blocks which most house holds carry.
7

You can drop a blob of solder on these at the ends where the wire enters for extra safety later.
8

9

Once all fished put lid back on bend dwon the lugs to fit lid tight and fit to the car hope it works for you, if youu can not repair with new brushes go for a two speed two wire gold resistor one cheers Arctic
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Old 1st December 2012, 09:04   #35
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Many thanks Arctic for all the pics and info, Am just about start work on this by getting the motor out.... Will update as and when

Martin
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Old 1st December 2012, 10:28   #36
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Well, for a change I have had a bit of luck!
Before I took the motor out I inspected the wiring (I know, the basics I should have checked first!) and it turns out the previous owner had mangled the plug!
After a quick few cuts, and 10 minutes with a soldering iron I have a working fan!
Hooray!
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Old 1st December 2012, 10:35   #37
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Great news Martin.

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Old 1st December 2012, 11:02   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoogle View Post
Well, for a change I have had a bit of luck!
Before I took the motor out I inspected the wiring (I know, the basics I should have checked first!) and it turns out the previous owner had mangled the plug!
After a quick few cuts, and 10 minutes with a soldering iron I have a working fan!
Hooray!
Hi Martin.
What a nice start to the day lotto ticket comes to mind excellent news cheers Arctic.
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Check out our Nano meet dates
http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto

" You do the work , we supply the expertise "
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Old 1st December 2012, 11:02   #39
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Again Many Thanks to all for all your replys and help

Plus it looks like the last owner may have put in new brushes aswell as the motor as been taken apart

So am very happy as i have a fully working fan
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Old 1st December 2012, 11:14   #40
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Hi Martin.
What a nice start to the day lotto ticket comes to mind excellent news cheers Arctic.
Tell me about it

I have had luck with this car so far.
The FBH wasnt working, and when I disconnected the battery to try to reset the Brake Pad Warning light, and the FBH started working again!

The Drop Link change was straight forward, as was the Brake Pad change.
Then, it just flew through its MOT... Must be a good 'un
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