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Old 21st June 2014, 09:38   #71
wuzerk
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Default front control arms

Quote:
Originally Posted by polinsteve View Post
I chickened out as I have to work at the roadside. I bought the parts and my local ex-Rover main dealer charged £155 labour (inc vat) to fit the bush, wishbone and strut mount. It was worth every penny to save the aggro.
Having done the job I would quite happily pay that much in the future.
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Old 23rd June 2014, 21:39   #72
BX51 2.0 V6 Tourer
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Default Finished !

Yes I think £155 would be a fair price, quite some agro. The Mapco arms and bushes arrived today from Germany. Nice fine castings, bushes and housings looked great. As they came out of the box, I am very impressed with the quality. I had to use a press to push the bush onto the arm which consumed about 40 minutes extra. With swarfega and washing up liquid I just could not get them on far enough. I see what people mean about aligning the rear bush and the problems of getting the bolts aligned.

I recommend using a largish screwdriver in the steel bush mounting, passing through the hole in the casting. That way I was able to twist the housing deforming the bush with one hand while feeling for the engagement of the bolt in the threads in the subframe, with the other hand. Wasted 30 minutes of the first one, but had the second one done straight away.

The arms were thicker than the original ones and I had to widen the clip for the height sensor bracket that clips around the arm. It just engaged around the wider arm.

Anyway all done now. I will advise on longevity but I am not putting high miles on the car.
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Old 28th August 2014, 22:55   #73
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best not use washing up liquid, it has salt in it - use hand soap or suitable grease.
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Old 29th August 2014, 08:07   #74
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best not use washing up liquid, it has salt in it - use hand soap or suitable grease.
Or KY jelly

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Old 29th August 2014, 10:34   #75
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We'll be getting in the possible uses of KY jelly next...................
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Old 7th April 2015, 08:54   #76
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Just replaced offside wishbone. Many thanks for all the info in this thread.
Didn't take the anti-roll bar off, no need to.
Used dismantling fluid/penetrating oil to loosen everything.
DO NOT USED WD40 IT IS NO USE AT ALL WHEN FREEING OFF NUTS/BOLTS.
Don't even consider starting this job without penetrating oil!!!!!
Didn't have a flexible ratchet 18mm spanner, or even a ratchet spanner. A flexible ratchet 18mm spanner would have been helpful when undoing the bolts holding the rear bushes in, but can be done without, just takes a bit longer.
GOOD LUCK.
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Old 30th August 2016, 13:32   #77
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Did the Job to our 75 last Week - changed right side Arm (UK Drivers side). Well I had Penetrating Oil (Presto). But the only thing that helped was dropping the car 5 cm onto the nut of the arm... - there was no corossion on the screw or seat - just a well places cone...
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Old 17th October 2017, 19:52   #78
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I'm attempting to change the driver side front wishbone on my 75 due to an MOT failure, I've managed to get the rear bush off, the hub ball joint off the hub and the nut off the middle ball joint but can't seem to crack the inner ball joint.

I have jacked the car up on the ball joint stud and used a 36" pry bar between the subframe and arm with my full weight on it with no luck.

I've read about dropping the car an inch or two onto a block/stand but how do you do that safely? Do you need a trolley jack?

Would jacking it up on the stud and leaving it with the weight of the car on it for an extended period of time (overnight?) help?

Thanks
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Old 18th October 2017, 12:59   #79
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Another thread decimated by PB, if members come across these threads with the photo's blocked by PB, maybe post up then hopefully something could be done to restore them ?
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Old 20th October 2017, 09:15   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BathRover View Post
I'm attempting to change the driver side front wishbone on my 75 due to an MOT failure, I've managed to get the rear bush off, the hub ball joint off the hub and the nut off the middle ball joint but can't seem to crack the inner ball joint.

I have jacked the car up on the ball joint stud and used a 36" pry bar between the subframe and arm with my full weight on it with no luck.

I've read about dropping the car an inch or two onto a block/stand but how do you do that safely? Do you need a trolley jack?

Would jacking it up on the stud and leaving it with the weight of the car on it for an extended period of time (overnight?) help?

Thanks
Have a look at my recent thread,
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