How To Fit A Tazu Clutch Master Cylinder

[TeeCee]

Originally Posted by DMGRS

Interesting - I have to say on the ZT I've just fitted a Borg & Beck clutch kit to, along with Tazu Master, there's no noise transmitted to the cabin with the pedal up or down.

Hmm, I wonder if the steel pipe on the B&B slave is keeping the coupling located securely clear of the 'box bell housing better than the floppy placcy object of the standard part combined with the malleable copper pipe? (i.e. pipe/coupling contact at fault rather than direct transmission from the slave).
I will get the B&B kit fitted soon, but I'm afraid that I won't be putting the copper pipe back to test this theory. We need another volunteer here to try both arrangements on the same car....

BTW: Thanks for the clutch kit and master cylinder. Top notch parts at a great price.

[neilbaker86]

The original plastic pipe on my 1.8T was touching the bulkhead on my car when I first had it, made one hell of a racket at idle.

I pulled the pipe away and adjusted it's fixing, and away went the rattle.

Will probably go down the flexi route for the Tazu item.

[TeeCee]

The interesting thing about this one is that the noise only occurred when the clutch was depressed.
Now, if it were intermittent contact of the pipe to something, I'd have expected that to occur at the biting point, but this was purely a "noise when down, quiet when up" thing and entirely unrelated to what else was going on at the time.
I had it down as direct transmission of engine noise through the whole arrangement when the release bearing contacted the clutch cover spring fingers. That made the most sense and I still think it's the most likely explanation.

Also it was most definitely engine noise being transmitted rather than the pipe rattling on something.

[DMGRS]

It's something I think we need to explore in more depth - I'll have a play with the ZT when I see the car again to see if I can hear anything, but I noticed nothing last time.

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by DMGRS

Interesting - I have to say on the ZT I've just fitted a Borg & Beck clutch kit to, along with Tazu Master, there's no noise transmitted to the cabin with the pedal up or down.

It won't be anything to do with the clutch or the make of clutch, it will be just down to engine movement and vibration at low revs.

[TeeCee]

Originally Posted by DMGRS

It's something I think we need to explore in more depth - I'll have a play with the ZT when I see the car again to see if I can hear anything, but I noticed nothing last time.

And now, with the 'box off, the answer presents itself!
The DMF is utterly kay-nackered (to the tune of a good two inches of free movement ) and presumably that's the source of the clattering. Yes, the copper pipe does transmit it, but with nothing to transmit......

So I suspect that if anyone else reports a racket with the copper pipe, it's probably indicative of their DMF being on its last legs.

I'm now very glad that I decided to go ahead with replacing the clutch, despite the new master having sorted out the gearchange issues. Having the DMF fail somewhere in Western Europe would have been decidedly inconvenient (i.e. rather more so than the unexpected and rather hefty bill for a new DMF).

[MSS]

Originally Posted by TeeCee

Tazu ..... Significantly quieter, maintains isolation from the engine, makes the master cylinder easier to fit and looks neater in the engine bay too.

Hi, I'm intrigued by the above statement. Could you elaborate on the following parts thereof:

1. Significantly quieter. In what way as I have never experienced any noise issues with the OEM or Luk replacement MC's. The don't make or transmit any noise.

2. Maintains isolation from the engine. How? I thought the copper pipe did exactly the opposite compared with the flexi of the OEM and Luk M/C's.

3. Makes the master cylinder easier to fit. In what way? In my experience nothig could be easier to fit than the OEM/Luk m/C's.

4. And looks neater in the engine bay too. Again, in what way given that the M/C is not actually in the engine bay and the flexi pipe is in no way visually intrusive.

I'm not challengigng what you say but am genuinely intrigued. I will be getting a new M/C soon but so far have not managed to convince myself that the Tazu is worth messing about with in terms of the pipes etc.

Thanks in advance.

MSS.

[DMGRS]

Just fitted one to my own car.
I've fitted an original in the past, and now the Tazu.

The original took over an hour to fit - the plastic pipework is very stiff, hard to feed through and generally irritating. Once fitted wrestling with the various clips was also a faff, as you have to move the entire pipe length around to get it to flex enough to sit in the clip in question.
Not to mention the fact it failed in service shortly after, and I had to do the whole job again (which then also failed. Excellent, thanks LUK).

The Tazu took 20 minutes to fit. The pipework is copper, so you can feed as you go - pass it through the bulkhead straightening it out as you go and attach the union.
Bleeding via my method took 2 or 3 minutes - fill the Master while it's not attached to the pedal, have someone push the quick release valve in while you push the plunger in to expel air, let go of the quick release valve and allow plunger to come out again. Do this until fluid is clear (3 times for me) then bolt up.

Also, any claims of noise in the cabin from the Tazu Master are something I've yet to experience. Today took me out across Yorkshire and back via Manchester (mostly on cruise control) and even when using the clutch there is zero noise in addition to the original, in my opinion.

Finally, the pedal feel is much better as there's no 'flex' in the pipework or housing, giving a more solid pedal. That was immediately noticeable.

I'm sold on them - I'd say I'll fit another next time, but I probably won't ever have to!

Zero returns on 64 sold and counting, and no negative feedback either.

[abourdonne]

the copper pipe is narrower than the plastic pipe. with what do you seal at the rubber cup ?

and is what we can twist like that : http://s845.photobucket.com/user/ric...ad9b8.jpg.html

[Billy1mate]

Here is my experience of master cylinder mayhem.
I fitted a Tazu master cylinder & Hel hydraulic line from custom hoses and the whole process was a pain from start to finish.
My problems started with removal of the original plastic piework in that I managed to pull both rubber grommets out. On the face of it not a massive issue until trying to install the 'oval' shaped one in the engine bay, this was because I could not remove one wiper arm to remove the plastic scuttle cover, this would have made grommet fitment much easier.
Next was refitting the master cylinder, I did a dry run to ensure the 70deg hose union was orientated such that the cylinder could be installed.
I used an Eezi bleed kit, to do just that (fluid was black & full of bubbles) before bolting the master cylinder in.
This was the painful 'shall I give up & scrap the car moment' as I struggled for 2-3 hours to bolt the cylinder to the bracket purely because of the limited access, arthiritis, limited tools (get the violins out). Seriuosly though, the loop from my hose imparted a twisting movement on the master cylinder, this made it really difficult to line the cylinder up to bolt it on. Be careful when doing the bolts up as they are brass inserts glued into plastic, cross thread a bolt and there will be a bigger world of pain to sort out. On the brightside, whoop woo, my clutch pedal now works beautifully so taday it seems that all the effort was worth it, just not at the time.
I would like to say the 'How to' by Rich was invaluable and goodness knows how long it would have taken doing it 'blind'.
Obviously this is my experience and I am sure not everyone will encounter the difficulties I had, I knew I should have had a can of 'Man-up' before I started.