How can a thing of such beauty be a huge pile of junk

[kaiser]

Originally Posted by 438brad

Sounds to me that you are testing the fan inside the car, i.e the switch on the dash not the cooling fan mounted to the radiator? Read a couple of your posts in this thread and it does sound like you have an inoperative cooling fan which isn't the end of the world.

It might sound like that, and you are! But in demist, the system is set to firstly cool all incoming air as much as possible, and to do that, you need the A/C.
Once the A/C is running, you need airflow over the heat exchanger in the system, and the engine fan provides that, always. That is why it is a good test, as it will show up a faulty fan immediately.
The air, by the way, is cooled to dry it out, as cold air can't hold much moisture. Then it is heated as much as the heating system can do, and passed over the inside of the windscreen.

This is now very dry hot air, which literally sucks up moisture, and you can see the dew evaporate off the screen rapidly.

It should work withing seconds! And work well.

[Bodger24]

Originally Posted by woolleysox

If your not sure how to check the fan why not join us at the nano and I'm sure the fan can be diagnosed for you. May even get it on the T4 to check it out.

Rob

You know I dream of the day when I can trust it to even go from Bewdley to Birmingham without something major happening. Anyway it would probably alter the balance of my mind seeing all those Rovers!! But if I ever get the thing sorted (ha ha) I would love to join you. Thanks

[Bodger24]

Originally Posted by kaiser

It might sound like that, and you are! But in demist, the system is set to firstly cool all incoming air as much as possible, and to do that, you need the A/C.
Once the A/C is running, you need airflow over the heat exchanger in the system, and the engine fan provides that, always. That is why it is a good test, as it will show up a faulty fan immediately.
The air, by the way, is cooled to dry it out, as cold air can't hold much moisture. Then it is heated as much as the heating system can do, and passed over the inside of the windscreen.

This is now very dry hot air, which literally sucks up moisture, and you can see the dew evaporate off the screen rapidly.

It should work withing seconds! And work well.

I am not at all sure that the climate control is working either, but that is way down on the priority list at the moment. Still the seats are comfy!

[mh007]

Originally Posted by kaiser

And you are right, the 1.8 is not a reliable engine. TOYOTA make those. But the 1.8 can be made tolerably reliable. However, you can never, ever turn your back on it, or it might attack you from behind. So enter the ring with a whip and a chair, and you might be able to live with it! But that is about it!

Well here's a statement I disagree with !

Yes, you have to keep your eye on levels etc but that's the same with any engine isn't it ?

My 1.8 has now covered 148k on its original head gasket, still runs so sweet you can hardly hear it running, no coolant issues whatsoever.

I also have a R45 with a 1.6 k-series that is coming up to 99k, same story.

I have a fair few customers who also have the k-series in many guises & drive without issue.

I recognise that many have had issues with overheating prematurely, but I suspect there may have been underlying problems there to cause the HGF in the first place on some of them.

The OP has been very unlucky but the thought did cross my mind that if a PRT is fitted & the garage who reconditioned the engine fitted a normal thermostat (back of engine) aswell, this will bound to cause an issue.

An engine is not designed to run with two operational thermostats.

(I realise that people fit an inline thermostat in the Diesel engine but that is usually because the normal thermostat has stuck open leaving the engine to run excessively cold)

[Bodger24]

Originally Posted by mh007

Well here's a statement I disagree with !

Yes, you have to keep your eye on levles etc but that's the same with any engine isn't it ?

My 1.8 has now covered 148k on its original head gasket, still runs so sweet you can hardly hear it running, no coolant issues whatsoever.

I also have a R45 with a 1.6 k-series that is coming up to 99k, same story.

I have a fair few customers who also have the k-series in many guises & drive without issue.

I recognise that many have had issues with overheating prematurely, but I suspect there may have been underlying problems there to cause the HGF in the first place on some of them.

The OP has been very unlucky but the thought did cross my mind that if a PRT is fitted & the garage who reconditioned the engine fitted a normal thermostat (back of engine) aswell, this will bound to cause an issue.

An engine is not designed to run with two operational thermostats.

(I realise that people fit an inline thermostat in the Diesel engine but that is usually because the normal thermostat has stuck open leaving the engine to run excessively cold)

I also disagree. The 1.8 Ecotec in my Vectra did 180k with no major problems, just one 02 sensor in 8 years. The turbo diesel in my cavalier did 220.000 miles trouble-free and only started to play up when I gave the car to my daughter!

If only I could get to the point where I could trust this car, in 8 months I have had problems with the bonnet catch, alternator, cracked block (it had been sealed with K Seal by previous owner), gas strut on tailgate, exhaust dropping off and constant coolant problems. Central locking doesn't work on fuel cap either.

[Bodger24]

Originally Posted by mh007

Well here's a statement I disagree with !

Yes, you have to keep your eye on levels etc but that's the same with any engine isn't it ?

My 1.8 has now covered 148k on its original head gasket, still runs so sweet you can hardly hear it running, no coolant issues whatsoever.

I also have a R45 with a 1.6 k-series that is coming up to 99k, same story.

I have a fair few customers who also have the k-series in many guises & drive without issue.

I recognise that many have had issues with overheating prematurely, but I suspect there may have been underlying problems there to cause the HGF in the first place on some of them.

The OP has been very unlucky but the thought did cross my mind that if a PRT is fitted & the garage who reconditioned the engine fitted a normal thermostat (back of engine) aswell, this will bound to cause an issue.

An engine is not designed to run with two operational thermostats.

(I realise that people fit an inline thermostat in the Diesel engine but that is usually because the normal thermostat has stuck open leaving the engine to run excessively cold)

Originally Posted by Arctic

Check the fan is working on the low speed by pressing the demist button only. Start engine with all the A/C off just press demist then look through the front grill it should run continually if it is working on low speed, if not then you need to establish which fan you have three wire two speed fan, or two wire 2 speed fan with silver resistor.

Do this by turning the engine off look through the front grill again at about 2.0 oclock to see if silver resistor is in place or not report back

The fan is definitely working when I press the demist button and look through the grill (ooops! never thought of that) However it is not kicking in when the engine overheats. Or does it overheat? because the temperature gauge seems to ignore any overheating - in fact it is either in shock or denial!

[Bodger24]

Originally Posted by eumjmorris

but you dont seem to tell us which engine?

Sorry, I would have thought that reference to a pile of junk would have given away the fact that it is a 1.8

[myrover2013]

Get yourself a 75 connoisseur se auto, fantastic cars with very little problems



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nice ones here



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[Bodger24]

Well the fan certainly works now that I have got the gist of checking it. However I have had my ODBII scanner connected and watched the temperature gauge on that. It seems to mirror the one on the dash but just under 100 loads of steam coming from around the header tank/cap area. The fan still does not kick in. Could this be the thermostat and if so how can I test it. I can't see any sign of a PRT

[MrDoodles]

What are the O rings like on coolant cap and what rating is it?