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Old 23rd May 2017, 17:32   #11
Mickyboy
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Example of a TI automotive pump and the pressure it creates.
Obviously this is a used pump several years old, my new one produces 3.8 bar, and this is why I will only fit Peterburg or TI automotive


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Jobs to do: ,replace drivers lock,.
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Old 23rd May 2017, 21:20   #12
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How much are the TIs? Problem is the car is being an ungrateful swine at the moment and demanding money every month - took it out for a drive today after replacing the fuel pumps and it's now got a brake pad wear warning light on the dash. Ok, I know the back brakes need some work as the handbrake is pants and only seems to work on the RH side, yet one or more brakes are dragging as you drive along, and it now needs welding again on the RH sill. It seems as soon as I fix one thing another breaks and I've got to admit as soon as I've had my caravan holiday in August I'll have to think long and hard whether I want to keep spending money on it or get rid of (and the caravan) and just use the new car with a tent. Unfortunately the MOT is due in July so I've either got to spend the money to get it through, or use the spare car, which is an option as it's MOT'd till November, but the engine doesn't run as well, the bodywork is dinged and it doesn't have niceties like cruise control or a decent radio.
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Old 23rd May 2017, 21:51   #13
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https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-WQB100482

Hi mate here is the link, at Rimmers they are £151

I know what you mean but sometimes better the d@vil you know than the one you don't. I always say fit cheap parts then fit twice...
Mick
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Jobs done : new UBP, Spy hole mod, Rear hub(wheel bearing),plenum cleaned and emptied, Inline thermostat fitted,Full service, In car Digital tv/DVD Bluetooth Satnav etc, Replaced UBP, Restored headlights,Fixed airbag connection.replaced HP pump,replaced rear light seals,changed intercooler O rings.

Jobs to do: ,replace drivers lock,.
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Old 3rd August 2017, 16:31   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sector-9 View Post
Anybody fitted any MM pumps to their diesel? I've bought and fitted the ITP and UBP and am hoping being branded items they might be better quality than the unmarked junk flooding ebay.
Hey mate, can I just ask where you got a MM ubp from? The pump I fitted just before xmas has already started to fail, so I'm looking for a decent brand at a reasonable cost. I've seen a couple of ebay but neither of them look correct to me

TIA
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Old 4th August 2017, 07:29   #15
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Originally Posted by Hootbleet View Post
Hey mate, can I just ask where you got a MM ubp from? The pump I fitted just before xmas has already started to fail, so I'm looking for a decent brand at a reasonable cost. I've seen a couple of ebay but neither of them look correct to me

TIA
Graham
Graham, just bite the bullet and fit a genuine part, it only takes one lost shift to cost as much as the difference in the purchase price

I have a genuine part fitted to my ZT for one simple reason, I don't want to be left stranded at the side of the A19

It produces 375 kPa at idle, which drops to 360 at the legal speed limit under load, I've yet to see an aftermarket pump perform as well

Brian
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Old 4th August 2017, 07:39   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
Graham, just bite the bullet and fit a genuine part, it only takes one lost shift to cost as much as the difference in the purchase price

I have a genuine part fitted to my ZT for one simple reason, I don't want to be left stranded at the side of the A19

It produces 375 kPa at idle, which drops to 360 at the legal speed limit under load, I've yet to see an aftermarket pump perform as well

Brian
Haha Brian, what is this strange thing you speak of?????
Back to topic, I thought I'd bought a MM UBP last time, but trawling back through my purchase history it looks like it was one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-M...item3cc064e2d2.

The pump is working, in fact it's working too well, to the point where it isn't turning off at all . At the moment I'm disconnecting the wiring loom overnight so it doesn't drain the battery again.

Hope you're well BTW
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Old 4th August 2017, 10:09   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
Graham, just bite the bullet and fit a genuine part, it only takes one lost shift to cost as much as the difference in the purchase price

I have a genuine part fitted to my ZT for one simple reason, I don't want to be left stranded at the side of the A19

It produces 375 kPa at idle, which drops to 360 at the legal speed limit under load, I've yet to see an aftermarket pump perform as well

Brian
I've done so much testing on aftermarket pumps from all the breakers that I get that you're right Brian, you won't find an aftermarket pump producing the same pressures as Peirburg or T I automotive, i've seen some pumps at 3000 rpm dropping right down to 3 bar
Cheap pumps tend to be noisy, start leaking at the top near the plug, or if they do keep going producing low-pressur
Peirburg pumps just keep going and going and going. They're like Ariston remember that advert ??
Mick
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Jobs done : new UBP, Spy hole mod, Rear hub(wheel bearing),plenum cleaned and emptied, Inline thermostat fitted,Full service, In car Digital tv/DVD Bluetooth Satnav etc, Replaced UBP, Restored headlights,Fixed airbag connection.replaced HP pump,replaced rear light seals,changed intercooler O rings.

Jobs to do: ,replace drivers lock,.
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Old 4th August 2017, 15:55   #18
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hi, I used a MM ubp pump and another cheap one in the tank. That situation lasted about a year when the car stopped. Not a nice thing to happen. I then bought two OE equipment pumps. Not sure if it was the MM pump that failed. If you are going to keep the car do yourselves a favour and buy the best.
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Old 4th August 2017, 17:31   #19
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fitted a mm pump to the 75 only lasted six months replaced with a oem one
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Old 6th April 2019, 16:27   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suffolk boy View Post
fitted a mm pump to the 75 only lasted six months replaced with a oem one
was that IT or UB?
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