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Old 8th April 2024, 16:32   #1
Matt_75
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Default KV6 Timing Tool Comparison

Last year I did a set of timing belts on a KV6. I bought what was sold as a Sealey branded set of timing tools and was never completely happy with them. The fit of front cam tools were a bit loose and the rear sprocket tool (cast aluminium) was slightly too long.

I've managed to get a partial set of original factory/dealer tools made by Churchill. The difference in quality, particularly the fit, is significant. I tried to film a short video to illustrate:

https://youtu.be/2-jych4zkgY?si=k6hZsnS5mKwbQ1d_

The first tool is the aftermarket one and the second tool is the Churchill one.

Does anyone have any experience using the Sealey branded set? I think I may have been scammed and sold a Chinese knock-off which is disappointing as they were quite expensive.

I'm still on the look out for 18G1747-4 (Exhaust Camshaft Adapter) if anyone has any leads? Thanks.
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Old 8th April 2024, 17:45   #2
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I dont think the rear tool was too long mat ,but the camshafts need turning to fit. This strange fact has been mentioned many times on here and members have rotated the engine accordingly to fit , even though its only a small amount. I dont know if the original tools were like this ,as in the original kv6 tools ,which had a face plate and pins for alignment of the rear cams,the set up seamed to look more robust. Some members use the new tools and then "fine tune " the rears to the fronts to try to eradicate errors of timing caused by this non alignment. It has been noted that some of the chinese kits were miles out of sync with the positioning of the cam pins for the front belts , compared to other reputable brands. There are lengthy posts on here you can check out if needed. ...
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Old 8th April 2024, 18:43   #3
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Quote:
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I dont think the rear tool was too long mat ,but the camshafts need turning to fit.
I don't think it was that as I spent ages, and I mean ages, carefully turning the crank fractions of a degree back and forth to try and get it the Sealey rear cam tool to fit but couldn't. In the end, I got desperate and used the spreader tool to force the sprockets apart a tiny bit and then it would fit. I've had no such issue with the original Rover tool.
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Old 8th April 2024, 20:52   #4
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You can also use a spanner on the front tool fitment to the camshaft,by using the flats provided. I think a lot of the misalignment is due to play on the rear belt teeth ,and tension on the pulleys ,due to the valve springs. It was a bad idea to locate using this rather crude way inside the rear pulleys. The old method was a better way on the first tools. I am not sure that the pulleys were different or not as i have never seen them or timed the first kv6 version.
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Old 8th April 2024, 21:05   #5
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ATS made a decent set of tools. The box"s on the sealey kit look very similar,but there is a lot of fake chinese stuff out there,which are difficult to spot. Member stewart ingram fell fowl of this when he bought a set.It was also noticeable that the pins on the tools were out,but sufficed. They were also a bronze colour , which was noticed. Worth buying a decent set of tools, or rent one from DMGRS , he has them for hire....
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Old 11th April 2024, 22:54   #6
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I have a set of the Chinese tools. The quality isn't the greatest but with some filing I got them to work. The rear sprocket tool needed filing of it's locating lugs for proper fit as did the front locking tools. You have to be particularly careful with the fit of the front tools as the metal of the cams is quite brittle and if you try to force the locating pin on the tool into place you can break bits off the end of the cam.
The factory front locking tools cannot be used to turn the cams, they require a separate tool to turn the cams as mentioned by the OP. This is much better than the Chinese tools with the long hex ends as they can put a lot of lateral stress on the cam notches leading to breakage, never mind that there is very little space in the engine bay to fit them and a bar and socket to turn them.
I modified my Chinese tools by cutting off the hex section, and making up a separate tool to turn the cams. This does away with the danger of breaking the cams and makes them far easier to turn. I can easily turn the cam with my left hand while locating the rear pulleys with my right.
I will post some pics shortly.


Here are my modified tools. Note the hex portions that have been cut off.
The turning tool is at the back I ground a socket to fit snugly over the end of the cam and
drilled and tapped to fit a pin to locate in the notch in the cam. I attach a T-bar to turn the tool.


Using the turning tool.
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Last edited by Rich in Vancouver; 11th April 2024 at 23:10..
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Old 12th April 2024, 09:00   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich in Vancouver View Post
The turning tool is at the back I ground a socket to fit snugly over the end of the cam and
drilled and tapped to fit a pin to locate in the notch in the cam. I attach a T-bar to turn the tool.
Thanks for this, Rich. I haven't had any luck finding the proper exhaust cam tool, so will probably have to make up something similar to yours.
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