Thinking of selling my Rover

Groundhog · 16th August 2016, 21:23

As per title,

I am thinking about selling my car and buying a Land Rover Freelander, Can anyone give me some feedback on reliability or running costs and parts.

I will be looking to buy 2003 - 2007 diesel.

pinebob · 17th August 2016, 08:52

hi mate,bought a 2002 freelander td4 diesel earlier this year and i am really pleased with it,you know i assume that it has the same engine as your 75cdi so fuel consumption is pretty much the same,i average 32-35mpg but mine is auto so a bit heaver on juice than the manual,things to look out for apparently are prop shaft and door window motors,trikey and debs picked mine up for me from north allerton bless them,trikes removed prop shaft for me as i have no intention of going of road and winters in east lincs do not get so bad and with it removed you eliminate any probs and get a few more mpg,any other things that need attention are the same on any 10-15yr old car.make sure you get one with full serv history and has been looked after well,anyway good luck hope you get a nice one.

Groundhog · 17th August 2016, 11:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinebob

hi mate,bought a 2002 freelander td4 diesel earlier this year and i am really pleased with it,you know i assume that it has the same engine as your 75cdi so fuel consumption is pretty much the same,i average 32-35mpg but mine is auto so a bit heaver on juice than the manual,things to look out for apparently are prop shaft and door window motors,trikey and debs picked mine up for me from north allerton bless them,trikes removed prop shaft for me as i have no intention of going of road and winters in east lincs do not get so bad and with it removed you eliminate any probs and get a few more mpg,any other things that need attention are the same on any 10-15yr old car.make sure you get one with full serv history and has been looked after well,anyway good luck hope you get a nice one.

Hi Robert

Thanks for the reply, having the same engine as the Rover is one of the reasons I fancy the Freelander. The other reason is ease of access, I am finding it harder to get in and out of the 75.

The down side was permanent four wheel drive but as you say removing the prop would solve that issue. The next issue is whether to stay with manual or try auto

Thanks again Robert

pinebob · 17th August 2016, 12:10

hi ray,got mine for the exact same reasons,my knees are playing up so i find it much easier to get in and out and being that much higher driving position its great,my personal opinion is that the engine is bullet proof and the jatco auto box is the same if looked after so for me it was a no brainer,lovely comfortable ride and only a few mpg lost.

Borg Warner · 17th August 2016, 18:39

On my fourth Freelander have had 3 diesels, 2 auto's and a manual and now have a V6. Great cars, however the diesels are very underpowered, especially with an auto box.

Problems? Well every car has problems. The 4wd drive comprises of a Viscous Coupling Unit, VCU and Intermediate Reduction Drive, IRD. Failure of the former will lead to a catastrophic failure of the latter resulting in a repair bill probably exceeding the value of the car. To avoid this it is imperative that all four tyres are the same, mis-match of the front and rears is what causes the VCU to fail, so if you view one check carefully it is all complete and the tyres are the same with the same amount of tread. Also if the owner says they have removed the prop' because they want to improve the fuel economy and it is in the garage ready to be re-fitted walk away. The often quoted fuel economy excuse is usually that, besides why buy a thirsty 4x4 only to save a miniscule amount on fuel?

Window mechs fail but are an easy fix.

Sun roofs fail and are an expensive fix, a lot of owners remove the fuse. I use mine on a regular basis.

Water in the boot. The seal in the plastic trim above the rear door fails, fairly easy fix but tricky - seal it with seam seal.

Rear diff' mounts can fail - think mine has, as far as I can see an easy(ish) fix.

Petrol tank cradle corrodes, again mine has. New ones available for less than £100 and a doable replacement at home as far as I can tell.

The coolant system also includes the the IRD. There is a heat exchanger attached which has mild steel feed and return pipes. They corrode (well that's a surprise). New exchangers are available, do not be tempted to by-pass it. See above.

There are sublte differences with the V6 engine in the Freelander and that in the ZT and 75. Engine cover houses the air filter and pipework to the throttle body is not the same, also the stat is different - opens later, the fans come on later too. Something to do with US emissions I believe???

Boot is small, but great with the seats down. It has a useful cubbybox which houses the jack and anything else you may need (including water - see above).

To sum up; as with any car do your homework before you buy. Don't bother with either the 1.8s or diesels, go for a V6. Who cares you only get 20/gal around town and 25/gal on a run, you can't take it with you. Comfortable on a long run too. Google LandyZone for some useful additional information. Check out the Anything Goes section, it is what it says on the can. You do have to register though.

pinebob · 17th August 2016, 20:22

i have a diesel auto and it is not under powered as far as i can see,trikey and debs picked it up for me from north allerton and trikey commented on how nippy it was.

Avulon · 17th August 2016, 23:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Borg Warner

On my fourth Freelander

Nah, they're rubbish - stick with the 75 ...... they last longer

.....Joke Alert

Groundhog · 18th August 2016, 10:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Borg Warner

On my fourth Freelander have had 3 diesels, 2 auto's and a manual and now have a V6. Great cars, however the diesels are very underpowered, especially with an auto box.

Problems? Well every car has problems. The 4wd drive comprises of a Viscous Coupling Unit, VCU and Intermediate Reduction Drive, IRD. Failure of the former will lead to a catastrophic failure of the latter resulting in a repair bill probably exceeding the value of the car. To avoid this it is imperative that all four tyres are the same, mis-match of the front and rears is what causes the VCU to fail, so if you view one check carefully it is all complete and the tyres are the same with the same amount of tread. Also if the owner says they have removed the prop' because they want to improve the fuel economy and it is in the garage ready to be re-fitted walk away. The often quoted fuel economy excuse is usually that, besides why buy a thirsty 4x4 only to save a miniscule amount on fuel?

Window mechs fail but are an easy fix.

Sun roofs fail and are an expensive fix, a lot of owners remove the fuse. I use mine on a regular basis.

Water in the boot. The seal in the plastic trim above the rear door fails, fairly easy fix but tricky - seal it with seam seal.

Rear diff' mounts can fail - think mine has, as far as I can see an easy(ish) fix.

Petrol tank cradle corrodes, again mine has. New ones available for less than £100 and a doable replacement at home as far as I can tell.

The coolant system also includes the the IRD. There is a heat exchanger attached which has mild steel feed and return pipes. They corrode (well that's a surprise). New exchangers are available, do not be tempted to by-pass it. See above.

There are sublte differences with the V6 engine in the Freelander and that in the ZT and 75. Engine cover houses the air filter and pipework to the throttle body is not the same, also the stat is different - opens later, the fans come on later too. Something to do with US emissions I believe???

Boot is small, but great with the seats down. It has a useful cubbybox which houses the jack and anything else you may need (including water - see above).

To sum up; as with any car do your homework before you buy. Don't bother with either the 1.8s or diesels, go for a V6. Who cares you only get 20/gal around town and 25/gal on a run, you can't take it with you. Comfortable on a long run too. Google LandyZone for some useful additional information. Check out the Anything Goes section, it is what it says on the can. You do have to register though.

Thanks for the in depth report

I have had diesels for the last 25 years and would not change to petrol, but I appreciate all the other tips you suggest

marinabrian · 18th August 2016, 16:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Groundhog

Thanks for the in depth report

I have had diesels for the last 25 years and would not change to petrol, but I appreciate all the other tips you suggest

Well I'm recommissioning Chris's Freelander Ray and getting shot of her 75 diesel.

Her car is 17 years old, and after standing for five years, it fired up like it had been to the shops.

The TD4 is prone to the same things as the 75 in terms of clutch etc, but the driving position gives a commanding view of the road.

If test driving a car, reverse it in a tight turn, if it feels like the handbrake is on....walk away, this is a sign of a seized viscous coupling, leading in short order to IRD failure.

Similarly avoid cars which have the propshaft removed, as this is often done to disguise IRD problems.

They are a pleasant drive, slightly underpowered, but nonetheless a slightly better built car than the 75, you won't spend your time reattaching the trim parts that fall off at regular intervals, for instance

Economy wise, you will be in 75 diesel auto figures for consumption, and if hammered you will be into mid to high 20s.......something to bear in mind

Finally door lock actuators are the same as the 75, so see if they all work.

If you spot anything you fancy, give e a shout and I'll tag along.......I have the Landrover disc in the T4 at the minute in any case

Brian

Groundhog · 18th August 2016, 18:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Well I'm recommissioning Chris's Freelander Ray and getting shot of her 75 diesel.

Her car is 17 years old, and after standing for five years, it fired up like it had been to the shops.

The TD4 is prone to the same things as the 75 in terms of clutch etc, but the driving position gives a commanding view of the road.

If test driving a car, reverse it in a tight turn, if it feels like the handbrake is on....walk away, this is a sign of a seized viscous coupling, leading in short order to IRD failure.

Similarly avoid cars which have the propshaft removed, as this is often done to disguise IRD problems.

They are a pleasant drive, slightly underpowered, but nonetheless a slightly better built car than the 75, you won't spend your time reattaching the trim parts that fall off at regular intervals, for instance

Economy wise, you will be in 75 diesel auto figures for consumption, and if hammered you will be into mid to high 20s.......something to bear in mind

Finally door lock actuators are the same as the 75, so see if they all work.

If you spot anything you fancy, give e a shout and I'll tag along.......I have the Landrover disc in the T4 at the minute in any case

Brian

Hi Brian

I think the time has come to seriously look for a good used Freelander (If there is such a thing

)

I'm thinking of an auto for a change but if I get the chance of a manual I'll settle for that. Not really bothered about the spec ie basic to SE. I have been looking on ebay at a few (Garage Sales) they are quite high mileage

I spotted a decent one near York it is an auto with cloth interior 84.000 miles on the clock. But it has 15 inch alloys and when I put the reg into Kwik fit tyres it comes back with 16 or 17 inch

. So do you think the 15s are 1.8 petrol.

If I do see anything I will give you a call to give it an experts once over

16th August 2016, 21:23	#1
Groundhog Posted a thing or two Citroen C5 Aircross Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Durham Coast Posts: 1,140 Thanks: 161 Thanked 622 Times in 301 Posts	Thinking of selling my Rover As per title, I am thinking about selling my car and buying a Land Rover Freelander, Can anyone give me some feedback on reliability or running costs and parts. I will be looking to buy 2003 - 2007 diesel. Last edited by Groundhog; 16th August 2016 at 21:43..

17th August 2016, 08:52	#2
pinebob Posted a thing or two rover75 cdt Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: ALFORD lincolnshire Posts: 1,216 Thanks: 107 Thanked 53 Times in 40 Posts	hi mate,bought a 2002 freelander td4 diesel earlier this year and i am really pleased with it,you know i assume that it has the same engine as your 75cdi so fuel consumption is pretty much the same,i average 32-35mpg but mine is auto so a bit heaver on juice than the manual,things to look out for apparently are prop shaft and door window motors,trikey and debs picked mine up for me from north allerton bless them,trikes removed prop shaft for me as i have no intention of going of road and winters in east lincs do not get so bad and with it removed you eliminate any probs and get a few more mpg,any other things that need attention are the same on any 10-15yr old car.make sure you get one with full serv history and has been looked after well,anyway good luck hope you get a nice one. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

17th August 2016, 12:10	#4
pinebob Posted a thing or two rover75 cdt Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: ALFORD lincolnshire Posts: 1,216 Thanks: 107 Thanked 53 Times in 40 Posts	hi ray,got mine for the exact same reasons,my knees are playing up so i find it much easier to get in and out and being that much higher driving position its great,my personal opinion is that the engine is bullet proof and the jatco auto box is the same if looked after so for me it was a no brainer,lovely comfortable ride and only a few mpg lost. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

17th August 2016, 18:39	#5
Borg Warner I really should get out more....... None Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2,579 Thanks: 494 Thanked 657 Times in 402 Posts	On my fourth Freelander have had 3 diesels, 2 auto's and a manual and now have a V6. Great cars, however the diesels are very underpowered, especially with an auto box. Problems? Well every car has problems. The 4wd drive comprises of a Viscous Coupling Unit, VCU and Intermediate Reduction Drive, IRD. Failure of the former will lead to a catastrophic failure of the latter resulting in a repair bill probably exceeding the value of the car. To avoid this it is imperative that all four tyres are the same, mis-match of the front and rears is what causes the VCU to fail, so if you view one check carefully it is all complete and the tyres are the same with the same amount of tread. Also if the owner says they have removed the prop' because they want to improve the fuel economy and it is in the garage ready to be re-fitted walk away. The often quoted fuel economy excuse is usually that, besides why buy a thirsty 4x4 only to save a miniscule amount on fuel? Window mechs fail but are an easy fix. Sun roofs fail and are an expensive fix, a lot of owners remove the fuse. I use mine on a regular basis. Water in the boot. The seal in the plastic trim above the rear door fails, fairly easy fix but tricky - seal it with seam seal. Rear diff' mounts can fail - think mine has, as far as I can see an easy(ish) fix. Petrol tank cradle corrodes, again mine has. New ones available for less than £100 and a doable replacement at home as far as I can tell. The coolant system also includes the the IRD. There is a heat exchanger attached which has mild steel feed and return pipes. They corrode (well that's a surprise). New exchangers are available, do not be tempted to by-pass it. See above. There are sublte differences with the V6 engine in the Freelander and that in the ZT and 75. Engine cover houses the air filter and pipework to the throttle body is not the same, also the stat is different - opens later, the fans come on later too. Something to do with US emissions I believe??? Boot is small, but great with the seats down. It has a useful cubbybox which houses the jack and anything else you may need (including water - see above). To sum up; as with any car do your homework before you buy. Don't bother with either the 1.8s or diesels, go for a V6. Who cares you only get 20/gal around town and 25/gal on a run, you can't take it with you. Comfortable on a long run too. Google LandyZone for some useful additional information. Check out the Anything Goes section, it is what it says on the can. You do have to register though. Last edited by Borg Warner; 17th August 2016 at 18:44..

17th August 2016, 20:22	#6
pinebob Posted a thing or two rover75 cdt Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: ALFORD lincolnshire Posts: 1,216 Thanks: 107 Thanked 53 Times in 40 Posts	i have a diesel auto and it is not under powered as far as i can see,trikey and debs picked it up for me from north allerton and trikey commented on how nippy it was. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]