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Old 18th October 2009, 13:17   #1
Mr Edd
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Default Metal Thermostat Installed

Fitting the Metal Thermostat
I have owned a Rover 75 for the last 6.5 years. A car I love and wish to continue owning for some time to come. I keep the car in good service and well maintained. I joined the MG Rover forum back in 2007 and have learned quite a bit about keeping my car on the road and in a serviceable condition.

One of the common faults with any car is design failures which don't appear until the car has gone through a few years of service. One such failure on the R75 V6 engines is the plastic thermostat that MGR used. These plastic thermostat housings by nature have a joint which is glued at time of manufacture and is not intended to be a serviceable part. A typical throw away and replace spare part similar to most car manufacturers. It doesn't happen to all of the thermostats but is common enough in the MGR cars to designate it as a common failing component and should be regarded as suspect.

Because of this constant failure there have been numerous attempts to find a solution. One such was created by Kaiser who is a regular contributor to the MGR forums. He designed and built a metal copy of the thermostat which he sells to members of both MGR Forums Including the MG Rover Club (Read this thread for how the product was developed.) Send a PM to Kaiser if you want one.

I purchased one of these metal thermostat from Kaiser in South Africa. It cost me 90 Euros (approximately £84 at time of purchase) It took some time to arrive but I think that was because of the postal strikes at the time (July to September 2009). So if you need one in a hurry you may have to negotiate a quicker delivery system.

Not being the least bit mechanically inclined I decided to get a professional to fit it for me. Dr Dave from the MG Rover forum kindly volunteered so arrangements were made and a plan devised for me to go to his place in Somerset for the work to be done.

First lets take a look at the product itself.

This is what came out of the packaging... (Please note I have numbered all the images for quick reference if needed)

#1

#2

#3

Everything is there although I may suggest that you get new Jubilee clips to replace the hose clips used by MGR. This is a precaution as the old clips may have deteriorated with age. There is a lengthy discussion on this in the above links.

On arriving at Dr Dave's he immediately started to dismantle my engine. It never ceases to amaze me when watching people who know what they are doing - do their thing. Within minutes my poor car looked very sad and broken. But never fear Dr Dave knows what is what when pulling your dearly beloved apart. I can guarantee that there was no bits or screws or bolts left over when the work was complete. (Except for the old plastic thermostat and pipes.)

#4


#5


The above picture show the old plastic thermostat insitu. Now I have to say that there was no problems with my plastic thermostat. I was probably one of the lucky ones whose thermostat was okay, however, I had noticed a small pink stain at the bottom of the "V" of the engine although I didn't have any considerable coolant loss. More about this later.

#6

In the above picture Dr Dave is pointing at what he called a Knocking Sensor. I am not sure what this is all about and I am sure he will tell us later in the thread. However, it did bring to mind one occasion when the good wife and myself were staying in a hotel in Paris and we heard some very interesting sensual knocking going on through the paper thin walls to the room next door. But I digress.

#7

The above image is of Dr Dave removing the bent pipe; it's facsimile can be seen in the earlier photos. He tells me that it is impossible to remove this bent pipe without breaking it. So we were at the point of no return. If you are doing this yourself then you have to decide are you willing to go for it??? Hopefully this little article will encourage you to continue. See the broken bent pipe below.

#8


#9

Above shows the removal of the clips holding the hose pipes onto the thermostat. These are the ones you may wish to consider replacing with jubilee clips.

#10

Levering the thermostat housing out of the engine block. (Perhaps Dr Dave could clarify any of these operations if I get them wrong.)

#11

The thermostat after removal. You can see the pink gunk around the smaller pipe. My guessing is this was the source of the pink staining I had observed in the "V" of the engine. Again reiterating that perhaps replacing the old clips with jubilee clips could save a lot of heartache. On inspection there appears to be no problems with the plastic thermostat housing, not even any beginnings of an issue with the joint, which is blamed for all the failures. There again I may have been one of the lucky ones whose plastic thermostat was going to be okay for the life of the car. I wasn't prepared to take that risk.

The next series of images I can't explain so perhaps Dr Dave could step in and tell us what he is doing. (Perhaps note the image number and make comment so that I can copy and paste into the appropriate place... Or because you are a MOD you can do it yourself?)

#12


#13


#14


#15


#16


#17


#18


#19


#20


#21


#22


#23


#24


#25


#26

In the above image you can see the O ring sealer he used prior to installing the new pipes. (Dunno what this stuff is called)

#27


#28


#29

Again you can plainly see the old MGR clips used for fixing the pipes. These are the ones that you may consider replacing with jubilee clips. (Any thoughts Dr Dave?)

#30


#31


#32


#33


#34

Now it is all back together and running sweetly.

#35

Before setting off to Dr Dave's I reset the trip metre etc. and the above and below stats shows the MPG for the distance covered.

#36


All-in-all a very pleasant experience. I now only have a few small things to do on the car and she will be almost as good as new. She should do me for a while to come anyway.

Edd

Last edited by Mr Edd; 13th February 2010 at 13:55..
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Old 19th October 2009, 14:02   #2
kaiser
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I am very happy that you got yours to work with no problems!! I think the write up is as good as it gets and possibly the photographs are even better.

Hat off!

And, as an aside, you do realize that you did have a leak.?? The orange stuff is dried OAT from the cooling system.! SO maybe good enough you did the replacement.

But in essence, this is what is involved, and this makes the difference between playing the lotto (without any hope of winning!) and not!

Just keep an eye on the V for the next week or so, just until your nerves calm down! I know the feeling, when every thing is new and untested, you want to check and check. I suggest you make it a habit to check you water level every time before you start a cold car. It takes half a minute, and this is time well spent. You will pick any anomaly up this way, before it picks you!
I think this mod will last the life of the car, maybe with a replacement of the thermostat unit itself, but then again, this is now possible!

Great!!
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Old 20th October 2009, 08:14   #3
Mr Edd
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I am going to go out today and try and get the jubilee clips to replace the old MGR ones.

Does anyone know what the sizes are or can I just get a mixed box and hopefully it will contain everything I need?

Thanks

Edd
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Old 20th October 2009, 09:12   #4
T-Cut
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Just a minor personal query on the clips. I don't have a V6 so haven't seen them in real life. What purpose do the clips around the metal (or plastic) connector pipe have? One of these clips is seen in Image 26. I believe this joint and the other end of this pipe are sealed by an O-ring, so why the clips?

TC
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Old 20th October 2009, 16:42   #5
chris75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
Just a minor personal query on the clips. I don't have a V6 so haven't seen them in real life. What purpose do the clips around the metal (or plastic) connector pipe have? One of these clips is seen in Image 26. I believe this joint and the other end of this pipe are sealed by an O-ring, so why the clips?

TC
They are location clips . The straight pipe can float back and forward to a degree between pump and thermostats , so once the pipe is in place you snap the clips on and it's just as if it fitted properly !
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Who said it was simples ?
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Old 1st March 2010, 13:50   #6
Mr Edd
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Resurrecting this thread as someone on the other forum has said that Lates doesn't like them and is less than complimentary because of the problems they have.

If Lates sees this perhaps he can enlighten us please? Last thing I want is my car breaking down because of something I fitted in good faith proves to be dodgy.

I must say I have had NO problems with mine since it was fitted.

Thanks

Edd
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Old 8th October 2010, 09:18   #7
scaevola
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Default Kaiser's KV6 metal thermostat-fitted in 2 hrs.

Kaiser's metal thermostat housing can be fitted by a simple, albeit non-standard method.
I fitted Kaiser's metal thermostat housing and 2 pipes this way around 6 months ago.
These components have performed perfectly, and I am totally happy with the upgrade.
My 2004 KV6 2.5 has not lost a drop of coolant in 6 months.
The confidence regained in my vehicle was worth every penny, as here in Australia one is often far from help.

I suggest that Kaiser's parts are the only sensible replacement option for KV6 owners.
To use the OEM part is to ask for the same problem in a few years, as it is poorly designed.
Kaiser's cast metal unit is clearly superior to the high frequency welded plastic OEM part.
Mr Kaiser has created the part that should have been fitted originally.

The strength of Kaiser's part allows fitment by a quick non-standard method.
The job can be done in 2 hrs and requires no removal of manifolds.
Not disturbing the complex induction system reduces the cost considerably.
It also removes the possibilty of incorrect re-assembly, and damaging components during removal.

Remove battery and air cleaner as per Haynes method.
Remove breather and fuel pipes as per Haynes. Make a diagram to aid refittiing!
Remove lifting hook - 1 x 14mm and 1 x10mm bolt.
Remove throttle body complete - 4 x Torx 25.
Remove throttle cable from quadrant by obvious method if needed.
Carefully raise throttle body, prise off cruise control white ball and socket connector, if fitted.
Tie back throttle body.
Remove 12 mm bolt using extended socket mentioned below.
Remove thermostat housing and bent pipe by levering out with a cut length of broomstick.
Remove annular debris left in holes, as the old parts will probably break during removal.

Pre-assemble long straight pipe into thermostat housing to its correct depth.
Tighten RHS travel limiting jubilee clip to prevent further ingress into the housing.
Fit LHS jubilee clip, leaving it just nipped, as this clip needs to slide.
I used Permatex Aviation jointing compound on 'O' rings - recommended, as it aids insertion.
I used wet and dry paper tacked to a length of dowelling to clean mating surfaces.

Manually manoevre assembled housing and long pipe into position.It is easier than it sounds.
Cut lengths of broomstick and a 20 inch screwdriver helps.
Do not foul the 2 leads from the knock sensors.

Offer up LHS (far) end of long pipe to its hole.
Light horizontal tapping with rubber mallet and wooden drift helps it home.
Viewing from RHS, ascertain that the thermostat housing is directly above its hole.
It is easy to twist and wriggle the housing to get this alignment.
Using cut length of broomstick and mallet, tap thermostat down home, working from above.
It was safer to use the required (moderate) force on a metal, rather than a plastic component.
Housing went in first time for me, as did the bent pipe later.
Lubrication provided by the jointing compound - may be important in aiding insertion.

Use a strongly magnetised metal screwdriver to offer the 12mm fixing bolt to its hole.
Torque it down gently to force thermostat housing home. Remove 12 mm bolt again.
It is now possible to manoevre bent pipe into place and tap it down using cut broomstick lengths, long screwdriver and rubber hammer.
I had no real problem getting the bent pipe into position, using cut lengths of broomstick and long screwdrivers as drifts.

Re-offer 12mm bolt, rotating bent pipe slightly until its hole and the housing hole align, and the bolt drops down under its own weight.
Torque down moderately - a stripped thread would be a disaster!
The seal is provided by 'O'-rings, not the torque on the fixing bolt.

I used a 1/4" socket set, with 2 x 200mm extensions, terminating in a universal joint and normal socket.
This allowed torquing the bolt from above, working through the cast manifold.
Pack the joints in socket extensions with cloth to prevent seperation in use.

Tighten LHS jubilee clip previously left nipped. Allow 2 mm clearance between clip and block.
Refit throttle body. It is essential to fit lower LHS Torx first.
Refit lifting hook, 2 bolts, easily accessed.
Connect coolant hoses, refit other removed parts, add coolant and check for leaks.

Once done, my reaction was: "Surely it couldn't have been so easy!"
You just need to have the confidence to ignore the workshop manual.
And use Kaiser's well-made metal components.

Final step:
Open another Coopers Sparkling Ale.... Adelaide's gift to the World.

Last edited by scaevola; 25th November 2010 at 04:45.. Reason: improved readability
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Old 8th October 2010, 19:23   #8
kaiser
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Thanks Bruce!! :-)
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Old 8th October 2010, 19:45   #9
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Hi Guys do you think I've a stat problem and is there a goo way to check?I have been sat in traffic and the temperature gauge starts to rise - hits 12 o'clock - engine overheat warning comes on - I pull away and the temperature gauge returns to the usual 9 o'clock. I finally get home - open the bonnet to make sure I can't see anything untoward with the engine running, waiting for the temperature to go up again and.....nothing. The fan kicks in ok and the temp gauge stays at 9 o'clock. This has happened a couple of times with me getting home and checking and it's never happened when I'm waiting for it to do so. I drive 75 miles - no problem. I drive 75 miles back - no problem. I then stop the engine , leave it 10 minutes, sit in a small jam and the gauge rises again! Drive home let the engine run whilst sat on the drive, waiting for it to rise again and.....nothing. The temp gauge is fine. I'd already had the head gasket and thermostat done 8000 miles ago so does it sound like it's the stat again?
Thanks
Ken

Whoops - should have said - 2.5l KV6
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