What to use before adding new badges? - Page 2

StevenWilliams · 21st April 2009, 16:40

I bought a Meguiars kit from Halfords a year ago and all I can say is WOW. It makes a heck of a difference. If you polish and use a good wax afterwards it will look and feel like glass. Also it makes the grime just wash off.

Next time I'll just buy a clay bar and mix up a soap and water solution to save money.

StevenWilliams · 21st April 2009, 16:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by deano78

the megs clay kit is a good starting point. or you can try serious performance fine clay (www.seriousperformance.co.uk) and use a shampoo and water solution as lube. Alternatively there's the hightly rated bilt hamber auto clay that uses water as lube (http://www.bilthamber.com/autoclay.html). after claying stick a decent wax or sealant down and youll be amazed at the difference.

What do you recomend as the best clay to get?

I'm not sure what the difference between the medium and fine clay is?

deano78 · 21st April 2009, 17:12

is goes on how abrasive it is. if your car is heavily contaminated, like iron filings from railway lines, you'll need a more aggresive clay but these leave marring and fine scratches of their own that will need machining out. go with a fine clay and see how you get on. after you've clayed put your hand in a sandwich bag (helps differentiate between the ridges in your fingers and the actual contamination) and feel the paint,if its still rough its heavily contaminated. used loads of lube when claying and the surface is clean when the clay moves freely and you cant hear anything, when the clay is picking up contaminants youll hear a noise like russling.

StevenWilliams · 21st April 2009, 17:25

Thanks deano78

21st April 2009, 16:40	#11
StevenWilliams This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon 2.5 V6 British Racing Green. 81,000 miles and counting Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Crawley, West Sussex Posts: 6,183 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	I bought a Meguiars kit from Halfords a year ago and all I can say is WOW. It makes a heck of a difference. If you polish and use a good wax afterwards it will look and feel like glass. Also it makes the grime just wash off. Next time I'll just buy a clay bar and mix up a soap and water solution to save money. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Rover 75 2.5 2000 Club SE. British Racing Green. MEMBER NUMBER: MMMDCCXXVI Looking for: 7 seater

21st April 2009, 17:25	#14
StevenWilliams This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon 2.5 V6 British Racing Green. 81,000 miles and counting Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Crawley, West Sussex Posts: 6,183 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Thanks deano78 __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Rover 75 2.5 2000 Club SE. British Racing Green. MEMBER NUMBER: MMMDCCXXVI Looking for: 7 seater

21st April 2009, 17:12	#13
deano78 Loves to post Audi A4 (formerly 75 cdt saloon) Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: chorley Posts: 493 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	is goes on how abrasive it is. if your car is heavily contaminated, like iron filings from railway lines, you'll need a more aggresive clay but these leave marring and fine scratches of their own that will need machining out. go with a fine clay and see how you get on. after you've clayed put your hand in a sandwich bag (helps differentiate between the ridges in your fingers and the actual contamination) and feel the paint,if its still rough its heavily contaminated. used loads of lube when claying and the surface is clean when the clay moves freely and you cant hear anything, when the clay is picking up contaminants youll hear a noise like russling.