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1st December 2011, 12:27 | #1 |
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Has anyone got this to work on switched live...
If you have which wire did you splice into and by what method... Solder, Scotchloks (if so which size and where from?), twisting the wire ends and placing in a crimp connector? Would it not be better to wire directly to battery with a switch added in to prevent battery drain? If this sounds like a plan (as I am fed up with cutting into looms) what wire do I need and if it needs an in-line fuse what ampage?
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1st December 2011, 12:36 | #2 |
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I was going to piggy back the electric windows fuse today (this is a switched live) but the red live wire from the DVBT power box has come out and needs soldering
Here is a link for the piggyback fuse if you want to go the same way http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1807358249...84.m1439.l2649
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http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1f7d5496b4.jpg Mods done: Towbar - EGR replaced with SS straight pipe - Synergy 2 - Aircon resistor replaced with JMA - Walnut and Leather Steering Wheel - Walnut Hand Brake and Walnut Auto Gear Stick - Walnut Dash - Sean's DD Unit with DVBT - 2.0 CDT Torpedos - Boot Badge and mk1 Chrome Plinth - D Pillars - Union Alloys - X-Power Upgrade Slowly adding pre project bits and bobs Last edited by Canon; 1st December 2011 at 12:44.. |
1st December 2011, 12:56 | #3 | |
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Quote:
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1st December 2011, 16:25 | #4 |
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I'd be interested in an answer to this thread too!
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1st December 2011, 17:37 | #5 |
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Behind the glove box there are 3 spade terminals sticking down which I believe were intended for a rechargeable torch option. I plugged an insulated crimp spade connector on to one of those. You have to be careful to insulate them because the terminals are very close together. You need a big spade connector. I think its 20A or something like that. |
1st December 2011, 17:42 | #6 | |
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Quote:
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http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1f7d5496b4.jpg Mods done: Towbar - EGR replaced with SS straight pipe - Synergy 2 - Aircon resistor replaced with JMA - Walnut and Leather Steering Wheel - Walnut Hand Brake and Walnut Auto Gear Stick - Walnut Dash - Sean's DD Unit with DVBT - 2.0 CDT Torpedos - Boot Badge and mk1 Chrome Plinth - D Pillars - Union Alloys - X-Power Upgrade Slowly adding pre project bits and bobs |
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1st December 2011, 18:18 | #7 |
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David, are you saying that any one of these three spade connections are a switched live on a 20a fuse??
Ditto Canon, what's it earthed to?
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1st December 2011, 18:38 | #8 | |
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Quote:
You seem to be having some serious issues with this unit. Are you sure the unit is not faulty? What ever method you use to make your connection, if done right, should work. There is an 'amp' output at the rear of the DD which should become live when the DD is switched on. I would suggest using that. I would also suggest checking that the unit is receiving power across its power plug with a meter. I cannot help more, because I don't have that particular unit.
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1st December 2011, 18:40 | #9 |
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Do NOT draw power from the "amp" or "remote" output! They are for signals ONLY and only supply ~500mA!
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1st December 2011, 20:14 | #10 |
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Yes you are correct -sorry!. He ought to be looking for and connecting to the ignition switched live going into the radio.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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