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12th March 2017, 11:56 | #21 |
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tried to clean out the connections I can reach but no different. Battery warning light did go off for around 4 miles at speed just now, then came back on again when down to 30. Had battery tested at a decent parts store who declined to sell me a battery (good people) but sticky battery on the charger for longer (it's only a 4 amp unit) and who reckoned water might have pushed gunk and debris around inside of alternator. Also reckoned charging problem could potentially be connected to a pulley.
If anyone can point me at a decent replacement alternator (and pulley?) I'd be grateful. Believe the Valeo on there currently is original part so it's done a fair bit of work. Ta Mike |
12th March 2017, 19:05 | #22 |
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Problem solved, maybe.
Was thinking about the starting point for this problem an hour or two ago and wondering if mud/carp from the water I drove through could've dried in the alternator causing a problem. Took a hose to it for a couple of minutes then with an extension lead used a hair dryer to dry it out for another five mins. Re attached battery making sure connections good and tight.
Battery light vanished as soon as I revved car and on checking with multimeter I'm getting 13.7 coming through and over 14 when revved. A member has offered me an alternator which I'll be buying tomorrow if alternator reverts back to no charging tomorrow on the work run. Unorthodox solution if it has fixed the problem, and with any luck £400 + cheaper than the new alternator I was offered on Friday! |
12th March 2017, 20:47 | #23 |
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premature celebration
Quick drive to shops to test that it's still working, and the battery light, charging fault lights back on again. My unlikely water cure seems not to be a cure at all. Multimeter saying just 10.14 across the terminals now which I guess is just what the battery has dropped to.
Is it possible that the alternator is refusing to supply a charge when the battery has dropped below a certain level? It had charged up as high as 12.5 before I put it back in the car this afternoon. |
13th March 2017, 18:37 | #24 |
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Back to working fine this morning after a tap from a broom handle. 8 mile journey. Then light on again coming home and corresponding lack of charge when tested with multimeter.
Taking Colvert's advice now and attempting the regulator and brush replacement in situ on Saturday. Ordered two and three pin versions from MGRS, following the 'how to' on here by Mr Lawrence. Would have gone for a recon alternator fitted by a garage but can't find anyone who'll fit a part they haven't ordered themselves. |
19th March 2017, 12:22 | #25 |
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Regulator advice needed
Got the regulator off after a fair bit of fiddling about with sockets and extension bars, and as Colvert and others suggested the brushed are really worn.
Unfortunately I've managed to disconnect one of the new brushed trying to get the unit back in. Its come away from the copper wire where solder must've been very thin. Question is can I solder it back if I'm careful or is it a case of getting a new regulator or brush kit now? Could do with a word of advice re sliding the unit back into place too as I just cant see the brushes at all working from the top, so holding them back with a driver would need 4 hands! There is a protective cover supplied by MGRS. Use that to keep them in place until the unit is in place then slide off and replace with the version that allows the brushes to spring up? |
20th March 2017, 20:22 | #26 |
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Managed to solder it back together and after a bot of a struggle got the regulator back on, using the plastic sheath supplied by MGRS, which I'd hope would get the brushes in situ when withdrawn. All back together and an optimistic turn of the ignition....battery charging light still on and battery measuring 12 at the terminals with no spike in amps when revved high.
I'm a bit baffled now so any suggestions before it goes into garage very gratefully accepted. I'm wondering if the broken brush could have snapped off when I released the plastic sheath (would I get any charge coming back with only one good one?) or whether it is just a loose belt after all. |
20th March 2017, 20:32 | #27 | |
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Quote:
The electricity comes OUT of the fixed field coils and from there to your battery.---( maximum around 100 amps. ) If no electricity goes into the armature through BOTH brushes then no electricity comes out. The wires to BOTH brushes must be intact.---- Last edited by COLVERT; 20th March 2017 at 20:52.. |
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20th March 2017, 20:44 | #28 |
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Time to check out the wiring loom where it crosses the chassis me thinks buddy
Regards Chris |
20th March 2017, 22:19 | #29 |
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I'm going to take the regulator off and check my soldered brush is intact. Because it jumped back to life on a couple of short runs after a tap with broom handle last week, I was pretty sure the issue had to be in the alternator itself. Given the brushes were so short on inspection I was convinced they must be the cause.
How long a job to get to the loom Trikey? |
21st March 2017, 19:47 | #30 | |
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