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Old 10th April 2017, 20:38   #21
COLVERT
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Sometimes a bit of heat and then cooling it with the penetrating oil works.

As the bolt cools it draws the oil into the bolt and threads.

Also the heat can split apart any rust that is in the threads.
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Old 10th April 2017, 20:54   #22
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Yeah I've done that before when I worked in a garage, it's too close to brake lines and wires though for heat lol
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Old 10th April 2017, 21:02   #23
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Quote:
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Yeah I've done that before when I worked in a garage, it's too close to brake lines and wires though for heat lol
A piece of plaster board as a shield usually does the trick to avoid heating anything fragile.---
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Old 11th April 2017, 07:34   #24
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Last month Walter help me to change the top mount . We used a long crow bar wedge between the wishbone and drive shaft ( carefully not to damage the drive shaft )on to the back of the front subframe. It is little bit tricky but it is possible. Make sure car is solid on the axle stand .
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Old 11th April 2017, 11:52   #25
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Quote:
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Don't have heat but have an impact driver. There's not enough room though to get in and hit it?
Get a handheld blow torch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Juego View Post
Yeah I've done that before when I worked in a garage, it's too close to brake lines and wires though for heat lol
The brake flexi and wiring is far enough away as long as you are careful on the path you bring the flame in at, have it on a blue flame before you bring in it in and go straight to the pinch bolt head from one side then the nut from the other. After heating for time then spray with penetrating oil (e.g. plusgas or similar not WD40). A two foot breaker bar and 6 sided impact socket should do the rest. You may have to heat cycle the pinch bolt a couple of times before the nut releases.
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Old 11th April 2017, 14:33   #26
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As others have said if all else fails get some heat onto it, if you really think the cables are to close get a heat mat from any plumbers merchant and that will protect anything behind it from the heat used them all the time
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Old 11th April 2017, 16:24   #27
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Did you manage to get towbar off the tourer
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Old 11th April 2017, 16:46   #28
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Quote:
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Did you manage to get towbar off the tourer
If @ Ashock's tourer, brother got it off half sockets half grinder
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Old 11th April 2017, 17:49   #29
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Quote:
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If @ Ashock's tourer, brother got it off half sockets half grinder
Bit rusty then ,must be original Rover then
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Old 12th April 2017, 07:44   #30
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Last one I did was well and truly seized in - the impact gun rounded off the bolt head.

I got the arc welder out and welded a bigger nut on the end, then with a 3/4 drive socket and breaker bar it finally moved.

Turned the current way up when welding as this transfers heat directly into the bolt, causing it to expand a bit and loosen the rust.

When it had cooled down but the hub was still warm, sprayed the bolt with freezing penetrating oil, and with a fair bit of swinging on the breaker bar out it came.










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Last edited by Mike Noc; 13th April 2017 at 12:46..
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