Handbrake cable replacement - Page 2

RichB · 12th April 2012, 17:58

Its the part of the handbrake mechanism at the bottom that runs left to right. As you pull the hadbrake on, it pulls on the right hand side of it and once it meets resistance, it should evenly apply pressure to the left hand side. You can see the pivot on the right hand side of it, mine was completely seized until I removed it and cleaned it up. I think this was certainly effecting my handbrake adjustment, however, I still have the problem that there's some rotation once the handbrake is on

What you can't see in your photos is a little ledge at the bottom which is part of the backplate. The ends of the brake shoes at the bottom locate onto this ledge. Once you apply the handbrake, the shoes move aware from the ledge by a few mm each side. I think the rotation is the shoes moving this few mm each way until they reach the ledge. In which case I cannot see how to prevent it, or why the other side of my car doesn't do it.

Sorry for the cryptic desctription, will try and get some pics whilst it is apart.

Cheers,
Rich

RichB · 12th April 2012, 18:15

This is the handbrake part I'm on about, removed and freed up...

This is the ledge on the backplate I mentioned. You can see here both brake shoes make contact...

With handbrake applied, you can see the gap opening up between the ledge and the left hand shoe. If the disc was fitted you can image the gap would be spread evenly left to right...

I think this is where the roatation comes from, but I could be wrong

Rich

HarryM1BYT · 12th April 2012, 18:42

Nearly all of the handbrakes I have done (and have now done a few 75's), allow some back and forth movement of the drum, with the handbrake fully applied. Often the movement is accompanied by a groan from the hub, as you get out of the car and the wheel rotates a little. The groan seems to come from the shoes rusty edge of the shoes, as they move against the back plate.

Nothing holds the outer of the cable in the back plate, other than tension on the cable, once disconnected it should push out, but most seem to be rusted in place - and no reason to disturb them.

The way it works is that the two shoes are pushed apart by the adjuster at the top. At the bottom the shoes are levered apart by arms[1] attached to the end of the cable, so the shoes are free to self compensate and align themselves between the two of them.

The other compensator is the one below the rear of the console, the one which stretches. This one compensates or evens up the force applied to each cable going to the two drums at the rear as well as linking the single cable at the handbrake lever, to the two going to the rear.

That compensator has a limited range of compensation which at maximum can probably compensate for no more than a 6mm difference between the two cables, beyond which you will find only one brake will work properly.

[1] The two pivot arms need to be reasonably free to move and free to return under the spring pressure, though I have not yet found any which were seized up.

RichB · 12th April 2012, 19:19

Hi Harry,

After taking it all apart, I can see how it works, as you have explained it. In my case the pivot arms were well crusted up. Seized is probably not the correct description, but certianly it was not free to return to the 'off' state under the tension of the springs between the shoes. That is probably why I had the trouble accurately adjusting them, it was always either fully on or too slack to have any handbrake effect.

Now that I've freed things up, adjustment is much better. With handbrake off, the wheel is free to turn and with one click of the lever I get good bite on the brake.

I still get some rotation when fully applied, but I guess if the brake shoes are adjusted properly at the top, there is less distance for the shoes to move, there will be less rotation.

Will find out at the weekend what the MOT man says!

Cheers,
Rich

HarryM1BYT · 12th April 2012, 19:48

I really ought to write a handbrake How To, covering all of these points - including your seized actuator arms.

Get it right and it is as good as any handbrake I have come across on any car.

graham7777 · 24th March 2017, 18:55

Hi, iv had new brakes fitted at quick fit on Tuesday they said the hand brake comes right to the top because they are new discs and shoes when l got the car home the hand brake cable clicked as far back as possible and did not work how true is this thanks graham7777

Stickman · 24th March 2017, 19:36

Sounds like your problem is with the compensator buddy
Regards
Chris

HarryM1BYT · 24th March 2017, 20:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by graham7777

Hi, iv had new brakes fitted at quick fit on Tuesday they said the hand brake comes right to the top because they are new discs and shoes when l got the car home the hand brake cable clicked as far back as possible and did not work how true is this thanks graham7777

..and like many, they don't understand the system and its known issues.

It will be the handbrake compensator which has deformed and / or the brake shoes which may need to be properly adjusted at the wheel. The compensator can be sorted quite easily and permanently, read my link below.

Kennyeth · 25th March 2017, 13:24

I would say that they have not adjusted the brake shoes correctly.
Take it back and kick off at them, ask for the boss.
Ken.

Goodlooker70 · 12th April 2019, 16:14

Hi. I have gone through the process of fitting a modified handbrake compensator. All of this has gone well. I am also changing the rear brake plates as they have corroded. The issue I have is that I have removed the handbrake cable from the assembly in the hub but cannot remember how to thread the cable back into the assembly. Please help. A drawing or something would be great. Getting desperate.

12th April 2012, 17:58	#11
RichB Gets stuck in ZT260 SE, ZT-T+ CDTi Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Staffs Posts: 583 Thanks: 13 Thanked 16 Times in 13 Posts	Its the part of the handbrake mechanism at the bottom that runs left to right. As you pull the hadbrake on, it pulls on the right hand side of it and once it meets resistance, it should evenly apply pressure to the left hand side. You can see the pivot on the right hand side of it, mine was completely seized until I removed it and cleaned it up. I think this was certainly effecting my handbrake adjustment, however, I still have the problem that there's some rotation once the handbrake is on What you can't see in your photos is a little ledge at the bottom which is part of the backplate. The ends of the brake shoes at the bottom locate onto this ledge. Once you apply the handbrake, the shoes move aware from the ledge by a few mm each side. I think the rotation is the shoes moving this few mm each way until they reach the ledge. In which case I cannot see how to prevent it, or why the other side of my car doesn't do it. Sorry for the cryptic desctription, will try and get some pics whilst it is apart. Cheers, Rich __________________ 53 MG ZT 260 SE Monogram Garnet Red #073 61 Seat Exeo ST TDI Daily Driver 99 Mazda MX-5 Turbo tracktoy

12th April 2012, 18:15	#12
RichB Gets stuck in ZT260 SE, ZT-T+ CDTi Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Staffs Posts: 583 Thanks: 13 Thanked 16 Times in 13 Posts	This is the handbrake part I'm on about, removed and freed up... This is the ledge on the backplate I mentioned. You can see here both brake shoes make contact... With handbrake applied, you can see the gap opening up between the ledge and the left hand shoe. If the disc was fitted you can image the gap would be spread evenly left to right... I think this is where the roatation comes from, but I could be wrong Rich __________________ 53 MG ZT 260 SE Monogram Garnet Red #073 61 Seat Exeo ST TDI Daily Driver 99 Mazda MX-5 Turbo tracktoy

12th April 2012, 18:42	#13
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	Nearly all of the handbrakes I have done (and have now done a few 75's), allow some back and forth movement of the drum, with the handbrake fully applied. Often the movement is accompanied by a groan from the hub, as you get out of the car and the wheel rotates a little. The groan seems to come from the shoes rusty edge of the shoes, as they move against the back plate. Nothing holds the outer of the cable in the back plate, other than tension on the cable, once disconnected it should push out, but most seem to be rusted in place - and no reason to disturb them. The way it works is that the two shoes are pushed apart by the adjuster at the top. At the bottom the shoes are levered apart by arms[1] attached to the end of the cable, so the shoes are free to self compensate and align themselves between the two of them. The other compensator is the one below the rear of the console, the one which stretches. This one compensates or evens up the force applied to each cable going to the two drums at the rear as well as linking the single cable at the handbrake lever, to the two going to the rear. That compensator has a limited range of compensation which at maximum can probably compensate for no more than a 6mm difference between the two cables, beyond which you will find only one brake will work properly. [1] The two pivot arms need to be reasonably free to move and free to return under the spring pressure, though I have not yet found any which were seized up. __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.

12th April 2012, 19:19	#14
RichB Gets stuck in ZT260 SE, ZT-T+ CDTi Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Staffs Posts: 583 Thanks: 13 Thanked 16 Times in 13 Posts	Hi Harry, After taking it all apart, I can see how it works, as you have explained it. In my case the pivot arms were well crusted up. Seized is probably not the correct description, but certianly it was not free to return to the 'off' state under the tension of the springs between the shoes. That is probably why I had the trouble accurately adjusting them, it was always either fully on or too slack to have any handbrake effect. Now that I've freed things up, adjustment is much better. With handbrake off, the wheel is free to turn and with one click of the lever I get good bite on the brake. I still get some rotation when fully applied, but I guess if the brake shoes are adjusted properly at the top, there is less distance for the shoes to move, there will be less rotation. Will find out at the weekend what the MOT man says! Cheers, Rich __________________ 53 MG ZT 260 SE Monogram Garnet Red #073 61 Seat Exeo ST TDI Daily Driver 99 Mazda MX-5 Turbo tracktoy

12th April 2012, 19:48	#15
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	I really ought to write a handbrake How To, covering all of these points - including your seized actuator arms. Get it right and it is as good as any handbrake I have come across on any car. __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.

24th March 2017, 18:55	#16
graham7777 Newbie rover 75 saloon Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: walsall Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	brakes Hi, iv had new brakes fitted at quick fit on Tuesday they said the hand brake comes right to the top because they are new discs and shoes when l got the car home the hand brake cable clicked as far back as possible and did not work how true is this thanks graham7777

24th March 2017, 19:36	#17
Stickman Posted a thing or two Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Bordon Posts: 1,856 Thanks: 250 Thanked 403 Times in 352 Posts	Sounds like your problem is with the compensator buddy Regards Chris

25th March 2017, 13:24	#19
Kennyeth This is my second home No more Rover Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Barnsley, South Yorkshire. Posts: 5,881 Thanks: 1,625 Thanked 1,308 Times in 998 Posts	I would say that they have not adjusted the brake shoes correctly. Take it back and kick off at them, ask for the boss. Ken.

12th April 2019, 16:14	#20
Goodlooker70 Newbie Rover 75 tourer Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Cannock Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Rover 75 rear handbrake cable problem _ please help Hi. I have gone through the process of fitting a modified handbrake compensator. All of this has gone well. I am also changing the rear brake plates as they have corroded. The issue I have is that I have removed the handbrake cable from the assembly in the hub but cannot remember how to thread the cable back into the assembly. Please help. A drawing or something would be great. Getting desperate.