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29th May 2011, 10:56 | #11 | |
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75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
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Quote:
One thing which has not been metnioned and I've never seen suggested as a cause of these problems, it the buttons pads themselves. For information - the black bit of plastic under each button is supposed to be sufficiently conductive to short across the contacts on the PCB. Oil/ dust/ WD 40 on those would be enough to stop the buttons working, so worth taking the time to clean those too. Wear on those same types of buttons is a common cause of TV remote controls failing.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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30th May 2011, 14:34 | #12 |
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75 Saloon petrol 2.5 Join Date: Jun 2007
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The black bits are used for the windows. Metal is used for the mirrors as it is actually powering the mirrors dirrectly.
I would take the top off the switches again, and then go back out to the car with just the bottom half and membrane. Plug it in. Then press the nobbles for the mirror. For each dirrection there are two, and you need to press both down for the mirror to work. See if you can get any life out of the mirrors. If you can then you just need to clean it up well off the car. DON'T PRESS UP AND DOWN AT THE SAME TIME THOUGH. OR LEFT/RIGHT Remove any residue of WD40. If you have time I would wash the membrane with a small amount of fairy liquid and dry well, to get rid of wd40. Last edited by Andy K; 30th May 2011 at 14:40.. |
31st May 2011, 08:26 | #13 |
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hi all i cleaned it with brae cleaner and a few cotton buds but still no joy. there is definately power getting to the switch pack as the windows all work. i will have to try a switch pack out of scrappyard and see does it solve the problem. thanks again
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31st May 2011, 15:45 | #14 |
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You don't say what model of 75 you have, I am just wondering whether the basic model even had electric mirrors?? Someone may have had a new (secondhand?) switch module. If you have a multimeter you could check whether power is getting to the "live" side of the switch. Fuse 11 in the passenger compartment powers the mirrors and fuse 35 if they are also heated.
HTH John |
31st May 2011, 17:58 | #15 |
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Have your electric mirrors EVER worked.
As post above---Are you sure you have electric mirrors ?????????????? Colvert. |
21st September 2012, 10:17 | #16 |
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Removing the switch..
Hi guys, can't seem to find any guide here, but how do you safely remove this switch?
Do I need to take the door panel off? Or will it just pull up? Thanks |
21st September 2012, 10:54 | #17 |
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Its the plug connection that goes into the mirror. The pins in there are gone by moisture.
You must make a bypass wirring and than it wil work. I had 3 rover 75 all of them had the same problem. Eric. |
21st September 2012, 11:32 | #18 | |
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Quote:
Just need to know if the door card control will simply "pop off" with a screw driver or if I have to attack the door card to get it out? |
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21st September 2012, 11:42 | #19 |
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My electric mirrors have "frozen" before - just through not being used - sometimes some manual "help" to move each one left,right, up and down does the job, plus, holding the finger on the button.
Once you've got them working, do a weekly test to ensure they work when you need them. |
21st September 2012, 11:48 | #20 | |
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Will attempt later. FYI, Tried moving them manually, they won't budge - gave em' as much pushing as I felt I could get away with, without breaking anything behind. Also note to the guy using WD40, you crazy? Last edited by itsadam; 21st September 2012 at 11:54.. |
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