Low towbar

[Sector-9]

By all means reduce the noseweight by moving stuff into the boot of the car (it's closer the axle so has less leverage against the suspension), but don't be tempted to put heavy stuff rear of the axle in the 'van as it can cause instability and snaking. Gas bottles, awning and spare wheel for 'van go in boot of mine and stuff like clothes - which don't weigh much in comparison - go in the caravan.

If you're unhappy with the deflection of the rear with the caravan on then you need to reduce noseweight as above or stiffen up the rear suspension; preferably with stronger springs, though they can give a harder ride when not towing. If it's just the caravan pitch then perhaps smaller wheels or lower profile tyres on it (bearing in mind their load capacity) might help a little, but you can't raise the towball in relation to the towbar itself.

[HarryM1BYT]

You can get a fairly accurate idea of nose weight, with a reasonable pair of bathroom scales.

You need a short bit of timber of a length which will sit on the scales and support the hitch with the jockey wound up clear of the ground. It needs to be done on level ground, with the caravan at normally hitched up height - slightly nose down.

Many bought for the purpose nose weight gauges are hopelessly inaccurate, but they are convenient. They need to be used as above, but sat on a thickness of wood to attain the correct level.

Having said that, I use a nose weight gauge, but I put my own calibration mark on it at 75Kg. Using my very accurate bathroom scales. Maximum tow ball load of car and caravan is 100Kg. 75kg I found works fine with my combination.

I don't check it every time. I check it maybe once per year now, relying on placing heavy items in the same place every time when loading.

[Si-monogram]

I think we struck gold with the bailey ranger then. We have had no issues whatsoever with balancing it out and it being nose heavy etc.

As stated here, the awning goes over the wheels, all the gas bottles stay in the caravan at the front. When towing with the saloon, we have the roof box for clothes and the camping chairs. The boot of the car carries the security devices, tool box and drill for the legs and motormover.

The abbey gets 416/8 is my all time faves van layout but the 2008 model still command a high price. The bailey is a great van in many ways and reading this, it seems that weight is another string to its bow.

[Goldyy]

When I was touring I used to fit Monroe air shocks to my tow car. Hitch the van up and inflate the shocks to obtain the correct ride height and when you get to your destination deflate them and you have standard suspension again.
Heavy duty spring and ride assistors are OK for towing but when you have nothing on the hitch the ride quality is pants.

[Lancpudn]

Originally Posted by Goldyy

When I was touring I used to fit Monroe air shocks to my tow car. Hitch the van up and inflate the shocks to obtain the correct ride height and when you get to your destination deflate them and you have standard suspension again.
Heavy duty spring and ride assistors are OK for towing but when you have nothing on the hitch the ride quality is pants.

^^ This ^^ I put Monroe airshocks on all of my cars (albeit classic yanks) & towing caravans was a breeze with those fitted. the ride was always stable.

I've found the tow ball on this Rover 75 saloon to be quite higher than my other cars. I've just measured it & it's 17 1/2" to the top of the tow ball.

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by Lancpudn

^^ This ^^ I put Monroe airshocks on all of my cars (albeit classic yanks) & towing caravans was a breeze with those fitted. the ride was always stable.

I've found the tow ball on this Rover 75 saloon to be quite higher than my other cars. I've just measured it & it's 17 1/2" to the top of the tow ball.

So I had to go out and measure mine

18" with half a tank of diesel, no weight in the boot - fixed ball which has the slightly taller neck, to accommodate the Alko hitch. Standard original shocks, both rear springs replaced in past 5 years.