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Old 28th May 2016, 09:17   #1
Mikel
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Default Bodged Job. Advice on front suspension arm ball joint.

Hi,

I recently bought a pair of front suspension arm rear bushes from Jules and had a local garage fit them.
A few days later I noticed a clunking noise from the front when going over bumps in the road. I've now found that the offside suspension arm ball joint locating pin is loose in the housing hole in the hub. I can move the pin up and down about 4mm..
On examining the suspension arm I think that the garage split the ball joint and removed the arm without slackening the bolt at all. From the marks on the bottom of the arm where the ball joint is, it looks as though a large hammer may have been used to drive it home without the bolt being tightened, obviously without success as it is now loose. I've tried undoing the bolt but it is seized tight, perhaps why the garage didn't undo it.
Q1 Before I soak the nylock nut and have another go am I right to believe the ball joint pin is just a tapered fit and does anyone know the correct torque?
Q2 Also to ensure it is seated right in the housing how is it best to push it home?
Q3 Is the bolt a specific type and are they available?
I was thinking about going to the garage and complaining but have decided I do not really trust them to do it right, I also found they had bodged my handbrake and used two large nuts as spacers at the adjustment on the lever, That is now sorted with Artic's modified compensator.
So after good while I've dusted off my tool box and pulled the torque wrench out. Any advice welcome.
Thanks
Mike
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Old 28th May 2016, 09:42   #2
Vanbursta
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As far as I remember that is just a pinch bolt, there is no taper on the balljoint, (see picture below) the joint has a cut out section where the pinch bolt goes through to stop it moving (sort of a "C" shape machined round the top part), if you have movement then there is a problem with the balljoint - or it is not far enough home. One of my pinch bolts snapped and the other was so badly worn it needed replacing, the garage I used didn't replace the badly worn one, and used a normal nut and bolt on the side that snapped, I know because I ordered the correct parts and fitted them myself.

BTW those do not look like new arms. When you refit the nut should be on the rear side (facing the rear of the car not the front)

Q1 Yes that's fine, I would use new bolts, the replacement ones are not Nyloc, they have the end of the nut slightly pinched and this provides an interference fit. Torque settings attached below.
Q2 You can' get it wrong, as long as the "cut out" on the ball joint is aligned with the hub, then it is fitted correctly
Q3 Yes it is a specific part and yes it is available, part number is RYG101220 for the bolt and FX110057 for the nut





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File Type: jpg Torque.jpg (131.2 KB, 151 views)
File Type: jpg Balljoint.jpg (104.9 KB, 152 views)
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Last edited by Vanbursta; 28th May 2016 at 10:17..
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Old 28th May 2016, 09:47   #3
EastPete
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The pinch bolt, as it is called, is not a taper fit, but it runs through a groove in the pin or 'post' that comes up from the ball joint, to hold the ball joint/lower arm firmly in contact with the hub. You need to get this bolt undone- they can be tight - use lots of penetrating fluid (Plus gas or similar), possibly also some heat, then use a six-sided 15mm socket on the nut, with a 13mm ring spanner on the bolt head, and see if it will shift. I usually need a breaker bar to get them to shift. The pinch bolt and nuts are available new from Rimmers.

The ball joint has be released from the hub, but do not use a ball joint splitter - you will damage the rubber boot/joint. After removing the pinch bolt, you need to drive a large screwdriver into the small gap in the hub behind where the bolt is- use the screwdriver to lever this apart to free the lower arm ball joint post from the hub. They can be tricky to free off - some folks use a soft hammer/mallet to free the joint - I use a chain with a metal bar, and hit that with a hammer to free the joint off.

The play in the joint might be due to damage on the 'post' on the lower arm ball joint if it was forced back into the hub without the pinch bolt being removed- in which case you will need a new arm, as these joints cannot be replaced. Alternatively, the pinch bolt hole in the hub may have gone 'oval' , in which case a replacement hub will be needed.

To get the lower arm joint back into the hub, you need to open the 'jaws' behind where the pinch bolt goes with the large screwdriver and then the post from the lower joint should just push back upwards - only gentle force should be needed. You can see when it is fully home, as the top will be almost level with the top of the hole, and the pinch bolt should slide in easily if the lower joint is properly back in place.

Hope this helps - good luck !

Pete
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Old 28th May 2016, 09:50   #4
Mikel
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Thanks Vanbursta, I was thinking of pinch bolt but somehow was calling it by the wrong name, The photo is really helpful and I'll look for a bolt, can I ask where you got yours from?
Mike
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Old 28th May 2016, 09:52   #5
EastPete
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This picture shows the groove in the lower part of the hub where you put the large screwdriver to lever the 'pinch' apart - behind where the pinch bolt goes (sorry I have not got a picture of the hub with the screwdriver in place). Pete
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Old 28th May 2016, 09:56   #6
Mikel
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Thanks EastPete,
That is really helpful. I shall give it all a good soak and see where I go with it.
The job looks like it is going to be bigger than I thought (well hoped). I am less than happy that the garage didn't do a proper job and will be really dischuffed if I need to get a new arm and possibly then replace a rear bush only two weeks old!
Mike
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Old 28th May 2016, 10:21   #7
Vanbursta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikel View Post
Thanks Vanbursta, I was thinking of pinch bolt but somehow was calling it by the wrong name, The photo is really helpful and I'll look for a bolt, can I ask where you got yours from?
Mike
Here:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RYG101220

and here:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FX110057

I ordered 4 of each as if I ever need to do it again, they will probably be NLA
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Old 28th May 2016, 10:27   #8
Mikel
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Thank you Vanbursta and EastPete,

Your replies and the photos are really appreciated. I am so pleased (and thankful) to be a member of a club where so many are prepared to share and help others. As someone who is not so technically competent the tips and knowledge I have been given and found here has been invaluable.

Cheers
Mike
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Old 28th May 2016, 11:00   #9
chris75
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Have a read of this old post http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ght=pinch+bolt
Once you get your new bolt fitted it might be worth trying a little overtightening, a bit at a time , to restore the clamping effect
Mine were eventually done to 60Nm and have been happy at that for several years now.
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Old 28th May 2016, 13:24   #10
Mikel
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Hi Chris
Thanks for that information, I had searched the forum but not found that thread, so was pleased to read it and noted the comments made. I have ordered new bolts from Rimmers and think I'll get some loctite and nip the bolts more than the 45nm as specd.
Mike
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