The best penetrating oil?

bikerdude666 · 29th May 2016, 19:20

Hi all, I'm going to have to have a go at the track rod ends, inner tie rods, and a strut top bearing in the next few weeks, (as well as front discs and pads, and OSR bearing, abs sensor and backplate...) and am guessing everything is going to be pretty solid. So I'll spray it over the days prior to the work, but just wondering what would be best to use. I'm about to order discs and pads from ECP so I'd rather get the penetrating oil from them too, they've got a few, PlusGas, Triple QX Maintenance spray, or Loctite 8201 5 way spray, anyone used any of these?

Also a quick question Re. the rear wheel bearing. I've read they should come off easy, but last year it was stuck on solid and I had to take it to a garage to get them to remove it. Would that be from where the calliper was sticking and making everything very hot, or are they often stuck like that? The calliper was sticking again early this year, but I replaced it quickly this time, so hopefully hasn't caused much of an issue. If it is stuck, is it possible to use something like this to remove it:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/46Pc-Harmo...sAAOSwDNdVskQS

Thanks.

EastPete · 29th May 2016, 19:37

I use WD40 fast penetrant (not the standard WD40 in the blue tin), and find it pretty good - it has shifted nearly everything on my 1968 MGB GT. You might need some heat as well. One issue on my latest 75 is that I think a lot of bolts were Loctited at the factory, so they often crack, but then the nuts seize further down the thread, and you end up having to cut them off. Good breaker bars also help.

The rear hub/wheel bearing should just pull off after removing the nut - the puller set you show should be suitable for removing hubs/wheel bearings, but should not really be needed.

Pete

steve-45 · 29th May 2016, 20:23

I've found PlusGas is a really good penetrating fluid, spray the parts the day before always helps.

SideValve · 29th May 2016, 20:23

Last week I spent about 3 hours try to get a front hub off at the local breakers. Then I gave up and tried another (less accessible) car but borrowed their rattle gun. 10 minutes later it was off.
So, imho, while some penetrating oils might be better than others, a rattle gun trumps them all :¬)

mininuts · 29th May 2016, 20:39

Another vote for PlusGas, I've always used it and it actually works

macafee2 · 29th May 2016, 20:42

i can never tell if the penatrating oil has worked.

macafee2

Goldyy · 29th May 2016, 20:55

They're all much of a muchness but the secret is to give the fluid time to work. If I have something to shift I start applying the fluid daily for about a week before and never had a problem with tight nuts, oooer matron.
If you ever watch Wheeler Dealers and see that Ed give a squirt of WD and then undo the nut it's utter bunckem .

Number 6 · 29th May 2016, 21:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by macafee2

i can never tell if the penatrating oil has worked.

macafee2

Well then,If the nuts and bolts come undone then it works.

If they dont come undone then it hasnt worked......

DMGRS · 29th May 2016, 21:19

Plus Gas, or Halford's own Shock and Unlock is also pretty good.
The latter has freezer spray built in, so really does some work!

As usual, if you're after a few bits I'm sure I can sort some discount...

BigRuss · 29th May 2016, 21:23

Plus gas, is very good, but the one I'm using at the moment is called liquid wrench made by Gunk it's done everything I've wanted it to

Russ

29th May 2016, 19:20	#1
bikerdude666 Posted a thing or two Jaguar Xe diseasal Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Little Stanion, Corby Posts: 1,922 Thanks: 363 Thanked 390 Times in 241 Posts	The best penetrating oil? Hi all, I'm going to have to have a go at the track rod ends, inner tie rods, and a strut top bearing in the next few weeks, (as well as front discs and pads, and OSR bearing, abs sensor and backplate...) and am guessing everything is going to be pretty solid. So I'll spray it over the days prior to the work, but just wondering what would be best to use. I'm about to order discs and pads from ECP so I'd rather get the penetrating oil from them too, they've got a few, PlusGas, Triple QX Maintenance spray, or Loctite 8201 5 way spray, anyone used any of these? Also a quick question Re. the rear wheel bearing. I've read they should come off easy, but last year it was stuck on solid and I had to take it to a garage to get them to remove it. Would that be from where the calliper was sticking and making everything very hot, or are they often stuck like that? The calliper was sticking again early this year, but I replaced it quickly this time, so hopefully hasn't caused much of an issue. If it is stuck, is it possible to use something like this to remove it: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/46Pc-Harmo...sAAOSwDNdVskQS Thanks.

29th May 2016, 20:23	#4
SideValve Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Oxford Posts: 767 Thanks: 141 Thanked 204 Times in 141 Posts	Last week I spent about 3 hours try to get a front hub off at the local breakers. Then I gave up and tried another (less accessible) car but borrowed their rattle gun. 10 minutes later it was off. So, imho, while some penetrating oils might be better than others, a rattle gun trumps them all :¬) __________________ The Story So Far: Austin A35, Morris Oxford, Triumph Herald, Mini 850, Mini 1000, Austin Allegro, MG Midget, MGB GT, Rover SD1 2600, Austin Maxi, Rover 200, Rover 825, Rover 800, Bedford TK, Range Rover 3.9 efi, Rover 400, Rover 100, MGF, Rover 25, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.0 V6, MGF 1.8i, Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.0 V6 Auto, Morris Eight Series E, Morris Minor 1275.

29th May 2016, 20:39	#5
mininuts This is my second home Cooper S 210 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Port William Posts: 5,309 Thanks: 5,098 Thanked 2,406 Times in 1,631 Posts	Another vote for PlusGas, I've always used it and it actually works __________________ *Paul* 2016 MINI Cooper S 210 : 2000 Rover 75 CDT Classic SE : 2009 Freelander 2 GS : 2000 Mini Cooper Sport : 1986 Mini Mayfair : 1980 Mini Pickup : 1971 Mini Cooper S

29th May 2016, 21:19	#9
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	Plus Gas, or Halford's own Shock and Unlock is also pretty good. The latter has freezer spray built in, so really does some work! As usual, if you're after a few bits I'm sure I can sort some discount... __________________ Your trusted MG Rover specialist! Tel: 02380 001133 / Email: [email protected] We now have a 'chat' function on our site for even quicker replies. Give it a try! Remember - discount code FORUM5 for 5% off

29th May 2016, 21:23	#10
BigRuss Premium Trader 75 CDT Tourer,2.5 Launch Saloon, Omipro MG/Rover (T4) Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Liversedge, West Yorkshire Posts: 5,405 Thanks: 1,105 Thanked 1,340 Times in 661 Posts	Plus gas, is very good, but the one I'm using at the moment is called liquid wrench made by Gunk it's done everything I've wanted it to Russ __________________ Replacement Key Service http://https://the75andztclub.co.uk/...d.php?t=244732 Full T4 Testbook diagnostics available. Diesel ECU repair and replacement. Options enabled or disabled as required. Diesel X-Power 135 and 160bhp, Rover 1.8T 150 to 160 MG 160 V6 to 177 upgrades available P.M. for details.

29th May 2016, 19:37	#2
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	I use WD40 fast penetrant (not the standard WD40 in the blue tin), and find it pretty good - it has shifted nearly everything on my 1968 MGB GT. You might need some heat as well. One issue on my latest 75 is that I think a lot of bolts were Loctited at the factory, so they often crack, but then the nuts seize further down the thread, and you end up having to cut them off. Good breaker bars also help. The rear hub/wheel bearing should just pull off after removing the nut - the puller set you show should be suitable for removing hubs/wheel bearings, but should not really be needed. Pete

29th May 2016, 20:23	#3
steve-45 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon CDTi Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Belvedere Posts: 4,076 Thanks: 108 Thanked 1,089 Times in 774 Posts	I've found PlusGas is a really good penetrating fluid, spray the parts the day before always helps.

29th May 2016, 20:42	#6
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,928 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	i can never tell if the penatrating oil has worked. macafee2

29th May 2016, 20:55	#7
Goldyy Avid contributor Skoda Octavia Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Saddleworth Posts: 117 Thanks: 33 Thanked 25 Times in 18 Posts	They're all much of a muchness but the secret is to give the fluid time to work. If I have something to shift I start applying the fluid daily for about a week before and never had a problem with tight nuts, oooer matron. If you ever watch Wheeler Dealers and see that Ed give a squirt of WD and then undo the nut it's utter bunckem .