Bonnet Cable Problem

jamest006 · 1st April 2007, 16:40

Hi All,

Looks like I've got a small problem or maybe a big one!
Its been a fine day today so thought I would give the 75 a good cleaning and a good wax. Once I had finished thought I would check the engine for the usual inspection so I reached into the drivers side area to pull on the bonnet catch release to hear a twang and to find myself in the position of not being able to open the bonnet. The catch release is just slack with no tension at all.
HELP! Is this something I can fix myself or is it back to the garage and is it fixable?

Cheers

James

Kandyman · 1st April 2007, 16:56

Hi James,

Have a read here,
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ead.php?t=2535

we do not like this sort of information left in the open as it can aid people breaking in to cars.

Kandyman · 1st April 2007, 16:57

Ops where's my manners,

WELCOME to the forums

jamest006 · 2nd April 2007, 14:44

Thanks for the info. Great Support & Great Forum.

black olive · 2nd April 2007, 20:07

as this seems to be becoming a common problem, is there any preventetive maintenance that can be done ?

Mike · 2nd April 2007, 20:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by moodybluezt

as this seems to be becoming a common problem, is there any preventative maintenance that can be done ?

Yes there is. Every six months grease both bonnet lock catch openings in the slam panel using a good quality heavy grease - put the same stuff on the actual catches attached to the bonnet underside. the root cause you see is the catch mechanism drying out and sticking. If greased regularly then the risk is greatly reduced.

hth

Mike

Jules · 2nd April 2007, 23:47

The Mod my local Rover dealer does (once your bonnet is open of course) is to unclip the HOUSING BONNET COUPLER and rotate the SHUTTLE (divider block) 180 degrees and replace. This mod is recommended for every 75 ZT owner to do straight away before the cable nipples pop out! Location of these parts see Pictures on page 7 post no 67 of this thread.

The cable routing is such that there's a slight curve around the cable divider and hence the cable nipples are biased to pop out towards the front wing.

So the way to assemle the nipple block is so that the inner cables and nipples slot in from the engine direction. If you are not sure if your block has been turned or not CHECK IT NOW! Also put a cable tie or several wraps of tape where the single cable goes into the divider block housing.....this will stop the outer cable pulling through the housing in extreme cases.

I must have turned about 40 dividers round in the last year! Also make sure the bonnet catches are oiled every 6 months and not just every service. Happy nipple checking! I've posted this info on 260's site also ... Hope it helps.
PM me if you're unsure.

These Mods give the bonnet release lever a much more Solid feel and I have not to date had a correctly assembled cable divider pop out again.

Jules · 3rd April 2007, 00:23

MMm, could be a factory install problem but i have to say the last 40ish ZT / 75's I have checked they have all been in my view the wrong way round!
Most have been face lifts and a few 52 plates & 2003 models.

First pic is where to find your cable divider near the washer bottle filler

You can see my little modification on the single cable (wraps of tape until almost touching the wing) This stops the cable coming out of it's slot.
Another method is to use a cable tie or tie wrap as we called them in the RAF.... they hold the planes together!

Correct orientation of divider block in it's housing

The cable divider box housing on the Pre Face lift models does seem to be better quality and stronger plastic than the face lifts!!!
Again a case of making the later models CHEAPER???

Oh and by the way if anybody's cable release is a bit stiff and you are scared to pull that lever to check everything........ wait untill engine is hot! Seems to be easier to open bonnet when components are warm.
DO THE SIMPLE MODS NOW BEFORE IT'S TOO LATE!

rover · 3rd April 2007, 10:51

I suffered the Jammed Bonnet problem twice in 6 months although I had Cable tied the Junction Box & regularly greased the Bonnet Locks.
On checking a little further I found that the two retaining bolts on each Bonnet Lock were tightened so that the rotating discs inside were very stiff. As an exercise I tightened these bolts a little further & found that this completely seized the locks so that no amount of pulling on the handle would activate the locks.
The remedy was to set the bolts at a low torque & apply Nutloc so that they will not move, the locks now rotate very easily.
I suspect that these bolts were torqued up the same as the 13 that retain the Grille to the Slam Panel on build,as I purchased the car new & had never had reason to touch these previously. I think this could contribute to the high incidence of Jammed Bonnets we see reported.
If these bolts are overtightened no amount of greasing will overcome the problem.

john adam · 13th June 2007, 07:50

Hello, one of the Aussie Rover mags had an article from a 75 owner on this very issue. He made up a metal bracket to hold the plastic junction box in place. The bracket is bolted through an existing hole in the wing adjacent to the box. I have just made up such a bracket and hope to fix it in place this weekend. Happy to send dimensions of the bracket if anyone is interested.
Regards
John A

1st April 2007, 16:40	#1
jamest006 Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Sale Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Bonnet Cable Problem Hi All, Looks like I've got a small problem or maybe a big one! Its been a fine day today so thought I would give the 75 a good cleaning and a good wax. Once I had finished thought I would check the engine for the usual inspection so I reached into the drivers side area to pull on the bonnet catch release to hear a twang and to find myself in the position of not being able to open the bonnet. The catch release is just slack with no tension at all. HELP! Is this something I can fix myself or is it back to the garage and is it fixable? Cheers James

2nd April 2007, 14:44	#4
jamest006 Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Sale Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Cheers! Thanks for the info. Great Support & Great Forum.

2nd April 2007, 23:47	#7
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	Solution To Cables Popping Out Of Divider Box The Mod my local Rover dealer does (once your bonnet is open of course) is to unclip the HOUSING BONNET COUPLER and rotate the SHUTTLE (divider block) 180 degrees and replace. This mod is recommended for every 75 ZT owner to do straight away before the cable nipples pop out! Location of these parts see Pictures on page 7 post no 67 of this thread. The cable routing is such that there's a slight curve around the cable divider and hence the cable nipples are biased to pop out towards the front wing. So the way to assemle the nipple block is so that the inner cables and nipples slot in from the engine direction. If you are not sure if your block has been turned or not CHECK IT NOW! Also put a cable tie or several wraps of tape where the single cable goes into the divider block housing.....this will stop the outer cable pulling through the housing in extreme cases. I must have turned about 40 dividers round in the last year! Also make sure the bonnet catches are oiled every 6 months and not just every service. Happy nipple checking! I've posted this info on 260's site also ... Hope it helps. PM me if you're unsure. These Mods give the bonnet release lever a much more Solid feel and I have not to date had a correctly assembled cable divider pop out again. Last edited by Jules; 10th April 2007 at 20:49..

1st April 2007, 16:56	#2
Kandyman Banned ROVER 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Limousine 2004 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Welling Posts: 10,995 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Hi James, Have a read here, http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ead.php?t=2535 we do not like this sort of information left in the open as it can aid people breaking in to cars.

1st April 2007, 16:57	#3
Kandyman Banned ROVER 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Limousine 2004 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Welling Posts: 10,995 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Ops where's my manners, WELCOME to the forums

2nd April 2007, 20:07	#5
black olive I really should get out more....... 260 SE vin 214 ( last mark 1 260 ) Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2,009 Thanks: 1 Thanked 8 Times in 4 Posts	as this seems to be becoming a common problem, is there any preventetive maintenance that can be done ?

3rd April 2007, 00:23	#8
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	MMm, could be a factory install problem but i have to say the last 40ish ZT / 75's I have checked they have all been in my view the wrong way round! Most have been face lifts and a few 52 plates & 2003 models. First pic is where to find your cable divider near the washer bottle filler You can see my little modification on the single cable (wraps of tape until almost touching the wing) This stops the cable coming out of it's slot. Another method is to use a cable tie or tie wrap as we called them in the RAF.... they hold the planes together! Correct orientation of divider block in it's housing The cable divider box housing on the Pre Face lift models does seem to be better quality and stronger plastic than the face lifts!!! Again a case of making the later models CHEAPER??? Oh and by the way if anybody's cable release is a bit stiff and you are scared to pull that lever to check everything........ wait untill engine is hot! Seems to be easier to open bonnet when components are warm. DO THE SIMPLE MODS NOW BEFORE IT'S TOO LATE!

3rd April 2007, 10:51	#9
rover Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Staffs/Derbyshire Border Posts: 285 Thanks: 19 Thanked 29 Times in 14 Posts	I suffered the Jammed Bonnet problem twice in 6 months although I had Cable tied the Junction Box & regularly greased the Bonnet Locks. On checking a little further I found that the two retaining bolts on each Bonnet Lock were tightened so that the rotating discs inside were very stiff. As an exercise I tightened these bolts a little further & found that this completely seized the locks so that no amount of pulling on the handle would activate the locks. The remedy was to set the bolts at a low torque & apply Nutloc so that they will not move, the locks now rotate very easily. I suspect that these bolts were torqued up the same as the 13 that retain the Grille to the Slam Panel on build,as I purchased the car new & had never had reason to touch these previously. I think this could contribute to the high incidence of Jammed Bonnets we see reported. If these bolts are overtightened no amount of greasing will overcome the problem.

13th June 2007, 07:50	#10
john adam Avid contributor 1999 Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur saloon Join Date: May 2007 Location: Carterton, NZ Posts: 106 Thanks: 18 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Hello, one of the Aussie Rover mags had an article from a 75 owner on this very issue. He made up a metal bracket to hold the plastic junction box in place. The bracket is bolted through an existing hole in the wing adjacent to the box. I have just made up such a bracket and hope to fix it in place this weekend. Happy to send dimensions of the bracket if anyone is interested. Regards John A