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Old 4th March 2010, 15:50   #11
Lates
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I did reply back but your pm bounced Ed. I have also replied on the other forums.

At this moment in time I have one of these due to be fitted and in light of this next vehicle whether I fit any more.

Details on the other forum, I am in the office and limited on free time sorry.
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Old 4th March 2010, 17:45   #12
capese21
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My ZT had a standard plastic housing and not had a problem with it in 6 years and 60k miles.
It was changed at the same time as the cam belts last year but there was not anyting wrong with it no leaks nothing just made sense while everything was exposed to pop in a new one.

Is the problem with the plastic themostat housing actually that bad? In my experience the plastic housing is servicable for as long as one would expect it to be.

Maybe the constant hot weather in South Africa degrades it quicker?

Ed.

Last edited by capese21; 5th March 2010 at 12:48..
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Old 5th March 2010, 11:51   #13
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Heres a random thought. Look at the numbers of KV6 power units built.Then calculate how many have had two thermostat replacements. Factor in addtional costs then make your own mind up.

I know of 2 kv6's that have had 2 stat replacements not counting the original one from build.

My own has had one a 85k now over 100k and still going well. Sure the car will be scrapped out before I need another.
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Old 5th March 2010, 17:25   #14
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I doubt if you would be able to find one V6 here that has not got a problem with the original thermostat. If so, it would be a fairly new and little used car.

By far the biggest problem are related to the plastic bits in and around the thermostat.
I for one cannot accept a latent problem with my engine, that can spring upon me with no warning, and totally immobilize the car, in serious cases ruin the engine.
My own car had an issue with the original thermostat just before 60000km. It went from not using a drop, to rapid overheat warning. Luckily close to home on a cool day. I knew that it could not be serious, because I had used the car for about 5km from cold.
I had another thermostat fitted, and it refused to open. That almost cost me an engine! The next one lasted till 70000km and leaked from day one. The welding of the top and bottom plastic parts was not complete.
I built my first metal housing. Problem solved. Permanently.

The problem is that this can happen at any time, and you get no warning before the event. When the gauge goes from normal to red alert, it takes about 5 seconds. You almost get a heart attack!
That is not acceptable in my book! Irrespective of whether or not you intend to keep the car. And I think most people would like to avoid such a possibility.

At issue is also the quality of the original thermostat housings used by Rover.
I have no doubt (but also no proof!) that the original units were of better quality than the later ones.
Currently the plastic units are produced by a Chinese company.
I will be surprised if Rover did not, at some time, switch suppliers to this company. After all, they did a number of tricks to lower the cost of the cars toward the end.

I have, grudingly!, taken Late's criticism to heart, and ordered the foundry to use a sealing process of the aluminium castings which will increase the smoothness of the finished product with immediate effect. After all, even a perceived problem is a problem.
At the same time I will offer an option where the heater unit is maximized if ordered.
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Old 5th March 2010, 19:54   #15
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Hi Kaiser

Well, some cars have escaped your problem so far, because mine is now on 83K and so far all is well !!

I still have your ally replacement in its box in the garage . No complaints, you have done a wonderful job there, but I wonder if I will be handing over a car and a box containing an aluminium thermostat housing to a new owner when I sell the car.
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Old 7th March 2010, 15:46   #16
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Quote:
I doubt if you would be able to find one V6 here that has not got a problem with the original thermostat. If so, it would be a fairly new and little used car.
As I say my ZT did 60k miles which is 96,000km without a problem. The old one was only changed as the cambelts were being done and it made sense to pop a new one in. The old one looked perfect no leaks or cracks and opening on warm up as normal.

In South Africa it may de different due to the constant hot weather

I have the Hans guage fitted so would get plenty of warning of an over heating problem.

Good Luck with your project.

Last edited by capese21; 7th March 2010 at 21:31..
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Old 7th March 2010, 16:08   #17
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Thumbs up

Like other threads everyone has to make up his own mind what to do.

Although there are members with no problems at all with their original plastic thermostat housings (and this is good for them) I think it is great that innovative members like Kaiser find a solution for the problem that he had with his plastic thermostat housings.

I think I is even more great that certain members like Kaiser make this solution also available for the other members. Costs are higher, but at least there is a choice you can make now. For me it is a much more relaxed feeling while driving that I drive “on metal”.

Would like to thank Kaiser once again for his great job that he has done for us members, and in particular for me and my beloved 75.

Rob
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Old 8th March 2010, 01:35   #18
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As I said in my original post I had no problems with the plastic thermostat. I did have a slight leak which I discovered; once we got into the "V", to be coming from the hose clip. None of this had been disturbed as far as I know and I have had the car for 7 years. As my last picture shows it has done 109K with the original thermostat. I have now done 1145 miles since the metal one has been installed. Gave it a good run 87 miles today and no problems.

I don't think I will ever put the old one back as the thermostat itself could be on the blink so I wont take the chance. I'll stick with the metal one for now.

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Old 8th October 2010, 09:18   #19
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Default Kaiser's KV6 metal thermostat-fitted in 2 hrs.

Kaiser's metal thermostat housing can be fitted by a simple, albeit non-standard method.
I fitted Kaiser's metal thermostat housing and 2 pipes this way around 6 months ago.
These components have performed perfectly, and I am totally happy with the upgrade.
My 2004 KV6 2.5 has not lost a drop of coolant in 6 months.
The confidence regained in my vehicle was worth every penny, as here in Australia one is often far from help.

I suggest that Kaiser's parts are the only sensible replacement option for KV6 owners.
To use the OEM part is to ask for the same problem in a few years, as it is poorly designed.
Kaiser's cast metal unit is clearly superior to the high frequency welded plastic OEM part.
Mr Kaiser has created the part that should have been fitted originally.

The strength of Kaiser's part allows fitment by a quick non-standard method.
The job can be done in 2 hrs and requires no removal of manifolds.
Not disturbing the complex induction system reduces the cost considerably.
It also removes the possibilty of incorrect re-assembly, and damaging components during removal.

Remove battery and air cleaner as per Haynes method.
Remove breather and fuel pipes as per Haynes. Make a diagram to aid refittiing!
Remove lifting hook - 1 x 14mm and 1 x10mm bolt.
Remove throttle body complete - 4 x Torx 25.
Remove throttle cable from quadrant by obvious method if needed.
Carefully raise throttle body, prise off cruise control white ball and socket connector, if fitted.
Tie back throttle body.
Remove 12 mm bolt using extended socket mentioned below.
Remove thermostat housing and bent pipe by levering out with a cut length of broomstick.
Remove annular debris left in holes, as the old parts will probably break during removal.

Pre-assemble long straight pipe into thermostat housing to its correct depth.
Tighten RHS travel limiting jubilee clip to prevent further ingress into the housing.
Fit LHS jubilee clip, leaving it just nipped, as this clip needs to slide.
I used Permatex Aviation jointing compound on 'O' rings - recommended, as it aids insertion.
I used wet and dry paper tacked to a length of dowelling to clean mating surfaces.

Manually manoevre assembled housing and long pipe into position.It is easier than it sounds.
Cut lengths of broomstick and a 20 inch screwdriver helps.
Do not foul the 2 leads from the knock sensors.

Offer up LHS (far) end of long pipe to its hole.
Light horizontal tapping with rubber mallet and wooden drift helps it home.
Viewing from RHS, ascertain that the thermostat housing is directly above its hole.
It is easy to twist and wriggle the housing to get this alignment.
Using cut length of broomstick and mallet, tap thermostat down home, working from above.
It was safer to use the required (moderate) force on a metal, rather than a plastic component.
Housing went in first time for me, as did the bent pipe later.
Lubrication provided by the jointing compound - may be important in aiding insertion.

Use a strongly magnetised metal screwdriver to offer the 12mm fixing bolt to its hole.
Torque it down gently to force thermostat housing home. Remove 12 mm bolt again.
It is now possible to manoevre bent pipe into place and tap it down using cut broomstick lengths, long screwdriver and rubber hammer.
I had no real problem getting the bent pipe into position, using cut lengths of broomstick and long screwdrivers as drifts.

Re-offer 12mm bolt, rotating bent pipe slightly until its hole and the housing hole align, and the bolt drops down under its own weight.
Torque down moderately - a stripped thread would be a disaster!
The seal is provided by 'O'-rings, not the torque on the fixing bolt.

I used a 1/4" socket set, with 2 x 200mm extensions, terminating in a universal joint and normal socket.
This allowed torquing the bolt from above, working through the cast manifold.
Pack the joints in socket extensions with cloth to prevent seperation in use.

Tighten LHS jubilee clip previously left nipped. Allow 2 mm clearance between clip and block.
Refit throttle body. It is essential to fit lower LHS Torx first.
Refit lifting hook, 2 bolts, easily accessed.
Connect coolant hoses, refit other removed parts, add coolant and check for leaks.

Once done, my reaction was: "Surely it couldn't have been so easy!"
You just need to have the confidence to ignore the workshop manual.
And use Kaiser's well-made metal components.

Final step:
Open another Coopers Sparkling Ale.... Adelaide's gift to the World.

Last edited by scaevola; 25th November 2010 at 04:45.. Reason: improved readability
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Old 8th October 2010, 19:23   #20
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Thanks Bruce!! :-)
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