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20th June 2016, 08:40 | #11 |
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Thanks Simon.
Dang Nabbit, which design engineer needed to be slapped for making it so awkward. I guess it probably wasn't the same guy who came out with the 2 speed fan. I guess by the time I strip the front and put it back together, I'll have lots of leftover screws. |
20th June 2016, 09:20 | #12 |
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Hello Rod,
This video shows exactly how to do it and how many screws there are. Clicky: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BUGH4_VMkU TC |
21st June 2016, 01:59 | #13 |
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Thanks T-Cut,
I'm always cautious with this stuff - don't let me near your car with tools I worry that I'll get the car stripped down and still won't find the cause. I'll let you guys know if I end up with the car like a million pieces of Lego. |
21st June 2016, 07:36 | #14 | |
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Quote:
The petrol engine fan circuit is very straightforward. If you have a 3 speed fan (4 wires entering the motor casing) then it will have a worn out motor brush. These can be renewed inexpensively by the keen DIY-er. If you have a 2 speed fan (2 wires entering the motor casing) and a silver resistor tucked away out of sight, you'll need an uprated gold resistor to fix it which again, is easily replaced. Those are by far the most common causes of slow speed fan failure. Take it easy Rod and come back to us frequently with any questions you may have. Simon
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25th June 2016, 06:35 | #15 |
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Ok,
Now I'm stuck. I have removed the front end and have cut the cowling, but the two rubber grommets on either side of the cowling have two plastic screw tabs that do not appear in the how to (one of which the screws secure the expansion tank). This may be dumb, but I don't want to force these out if there is a simple way of removing them. What's the trick or is it just brute force? |
25th June 2016, 08:28 | #16 |
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Hi Rod,
I think you mean the rubber upper mountings from radiator to bonnet locking platform, yes? If so, they are indeed a push-fit. If you look underneath the locking platform you'll see a bulb of rubber which passes through a smaller hole in the platform. I can't remember now whether it's easier to release the rubber mounting here or from the top of the radiator. Either way, they'll be tight and you will need the assistance of a lubricant and a blunt tool to push the rubber bulb through its mounting hole. I hope that makes sense? Simon
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25th June 2016, 09:35 | #17 |
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Hi Rod.
I am assuming you have the bumper off, slam panel off and now are ready to remove the fan, unclip the fan wiring from the main loom in the passenger wheel arch. Under the fan you should see two clips holding the bottom of the fan cowling removes these pic 2, you can now lift the fan from the right hand rubber on the radiator, being you have cut round the AC pipes the other rubber should lift off quite easy.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Dragrad; 15th July 2016 at 23:44.. Reason: Pics enlarged ;-) |
25th June 2016, 14:42 | #18 |
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Worth a mention that the main power feed to my fan was dead - it was a wiring fault somewhere, so I ran my own power feed from the fusebox to replace it.
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25th June 2016, 21:23 | #19 |
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Hi Rod.
A few more photo's here for you, which may help with your concern of removing fan off the top of the radiator and the rubber mounts. Stick with what Simon as to say about the fan and it's wiring and you can not go far wrong, try at all costs not to go down the road Matt went as that is not the right way. Once you have the fan of with the cowling you will find three torx screws holding the fan motor to the cowling these will need to be removed so you can open the lid off the motor it's self to gauge the condition of the brushes an commutator. Sometimes the connector clips to the slam panel are hard to remove due to the torx fixing being soft alloy, this make no difference the slam panel can still be lifted free from the rubber bung. 1 2 Nibble round the AC joint as here 3 And here at the bottom 4 Remove two 8mm bolts from the fan cowling centre either side, and the two clips at the bottom from the earlier photo above. Bolts removed and cowling nibbled away round the AC joints unplug the fan loom from the main loom in the wheel arch 5 6 Lift the right hand side of the cowling from the radiator support post by lift the bottom of the fan out and the top up and off the post. 7 Do the same the left side taking care that you do not disturb the A/C joint 8 The fan should now be free and off the car so you can investigate the wiring behind and the brushes etc. 9 Good luck and keep us informed so we can help you cheers Arctic.
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26th June 2016, 00:10 | #20 |
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Sorry Arctic,
I'm feeling pretty dumb. Slam panel is off but I can not get the plastic tag for the torx screw off as you have in pic 2, I can not free it from the rubber grommet. Ok, scrap that, I have managed to remove the tabs, but still stuck lifting the cowling out due to the grommets still in place. I might take a break for awhile. Last edited by Sledge; 26th June 2016 at 00:36.. |
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